Sesriem and Sossusvlei

We were sorry to leave At Kronenhof Lodge. Campsite #4 was a wonderful place to stay and we were sad to be packing up for our trip to Sesriem. Before we left, however, we joined the At Kronenhof Lodge Friendship Chain. At the lodge, you get a padlock, and they have a fine Dremel tool that you use to engrave something onto the lock. We engraved our names and Gecko 109. The lock is then placed on the chain and you keep one key, your partner the second and the third is thrown into a pit below the chain. Now your friendship is locked in place. What a great tradition!

Nevertheless, it was time to pack our stuff and be off on the next leg of our adventure. We had been warned by several people that the road from Betta to Sesriem was appalling, and we were concerned about this drive. While at the lodge, Karen advised us to go along the C27 for approximately 40 kilometers until we came to the D827. We were then to take the D827 across to the C19 and then continue on the C19 to Sesriem. Well, what a treat. The road was good and we arrived at our next home, Little Sossus Lodge, in excellent time. This route was a good road all the way.

Little Sossus Lodge camping area is run by a lovely couple who made us feel welcome from the start. There is a nice veranda where you have WIFI, a great pool and the campsites have no trees for shade but there are shelters. A word of advice, ask for a double shelter. These shelters are intended to house two caravans. You will be very close to each other if you put two vans under the shelter, but they work out beautifully for a van and a car. There is no difference in price for a double or single shelter as you pay per person, per night.

We soon had peg-foot Lizzie settled into her new home and a nice cold drink in hand. The view from the campsites is great with a small waterhole, visited by Gemsbok, right in front. What a way to unwind, a comfy chair, shade, a cold drink and a waterhole.

We relaxed all afternoon and enjoyed the serenity of our surroundings, but it was literally the calm before the storm! Later that evening we heard the gentle patter of rain on the roof of the shelter and thought how nice it was to hear the rain. Within a short time, that gentle patter had become a raging storm. The wind was howling and Lizzie took a real pounding from rain and wind. We came through unscathed but a little damp where a side window hadn’t been closed properly. Our hosts told us that they recorded 18mm in about an hour and a half.

Not only was there a storm to contend with but also a pesky jackal that was determined to raid the dustbin in the kitchen area. No amount of nudging on my part brought Alec from Slumberland so when this pesky critter managed to pull the bin over, I had to brave the rain to pick up the rubbish and reseat the bin! The next morning, my beloved hubby just said he was pleased to have married a competent lady! Huh?!

The morning dawned bright and clear, and Alvan and Ray left early for Sossusvlei. They wanted to walk to Dead Vlei so they left Little Sossus to drive the 36km to the gate. Later when we caught up, they said that they had made the walk but there were literally hundreds of people there as well. There were busloads of people so their walk was reminiscent of the crush on a New York sidewalk. Nevertheless, they enjoyed the spectacle and, on their way back, they marveled at the people climbing Dune 45. Madness!

Alec and I chose to rather visit Sesriem Canyon as we didn’t think my arthritis and his injured back would do too well on the 1,2km walk to Dead Vlei.  We climbed down into the canyon and were met with these high walls studded with rocks. Some walls looked like they had been shot up, but the gaps were where the pebbles had succumbed to gravity and fallen out. It’s hard to imagine that this was the only water for miles around and the Dorsland Trekkers had to tie together six straps, made from Gemsbok leather, to drop a bucket and gather water.

We enjoyed our walk along the floor of the canyon but when we reached a place where there was a steep descent over some rocky steps, we turned around and made our way out. The peace and serenity of the canyon was impressive and we thoroughly enjoyed our walk.

On our last evening Ray and Alvan discovered that they had lost the side window of their van. A stone must have been flung up by a passing car and the window had shattered. Gecko owners are creative and an old cardboard box and duct tape made an excellent cover until we get to Swakopmund and can have the window replaced.

Also, on our last evening, we were filling our washing bucket ready for the next day’s trip, when Alec noticed a huge scorpion running around near the tap.  We have a small ultraviolet torch that made him glow beautifully. I was very happy to admire him from a distance, those tiny pincers and fat tail spell trouble!

We have now reached the end of our first week in Namibia. Have we enjoyed ourselves so far? The answer is a resounding yes! The beauty of the Southern Namibian landscapes is fantastic. The colours that mix so well together. The magnificent blue sky that stretches forever, the red dunes, the golden grassy plains, the chocolaty mountains, the bright green tree canopies of the trees that march in almost straight lines along water courses, the pinks and oranges of the sunrises and sunsets, and the silence broken only by bird calls. Magnificent. 

The people we have met have been as great. Everyone, from our hosts at the campsites to the waiters, petrol attendants and everyone else has made us feel 100% welcome. They have been nothing but friendly and helpful.

The only downside has been the dust. Namibian dust is comprised of tenacious little flakes that cling amorously to everything. It has arrived in clouds to welcome us to Namibia! No amount of dusting or slapping has any effect and the only defense is a damp cloth. We are so lucky to have such a robust caravan. No dust has got past the seals. In spite of the dust, we are loving our adventure and look forward to the next week.

Tomorrow we are off to Swakopmund, and I guess a very different kettle of fish! Gone will be the peace and quiet and we will be back in the middle of the bustle of a busy town. Still, it’ll give us time to do a few things (like wash the bedding!) and visit the local sights. 

Till next time, take care!