Etosha

We left Twyfelfontein and viewed the gravel road leading to Khorixas with some trepidation. Our experiences with the roads in the area for the past couple of days had been so bad that we were expecting the worst. Fortunately, our fears were largely unfounded. The C39 to Khorixas started out with a good road surface and it was only the last 20 or so kilometers of gravel that was not good.

We drove through Khorixas, revelling in the tarred surface, and made our way to Outjo We filled up with fuel and then were lucky enough to find parking near the Outjo Spar. What a great shop this was and a fantastic place to stock up with food for our trip to Etosha.

Opposite the Spar, you can find The Outjo Bakkery Now this is a must-stop if you are in the area. They serve the most delicious coffee and decadent apple crumble and apple strudel.  The apple crumble and strudel far outstripped the famous apple treats to be found in Solitaire!

With full larders again we set off for Etosha. Before entering at the Anderson Gate, we stopped at the Gondwana Etosha Safari Park, where we were to stay for a couple of days after leaving Okaukuejo. We had made arrangements to leave any meat, which we would not consume while in Etosha, with them. The exit regulations at the Anderson Gate are very strict and any meat from cloven hoof animals is confiscated as this is the veterinary line.

We entered the park and drove the 17 kilometers to Okaukuejo, where we were to spend our first couple of days. Okaukuejo is the administrative centre for the park and as a result, is fantastically busy. We checked in, paid our conservation fees, and slowly made our way to the campsite. As you can imagine, this campsite is huge and we had been allocated a site with absolutely no shade. The whole campsite at Okaukeujo has few sites with good shade, but when we saw our site, we approached the camp guard and he moved us to an alternate site with a little shade.

We set up camp and the temperature was soaring into the high 30s again. We sat for a while, recovering our breath and watching the antics of the Sociable Weavers that were nesting in the tree that provided our shade. The antics of these little birds provided a lot of entertainment.

We were quickly invaded by these two little critters. The squirrels and banded mongoose have become very accomplished beggars and made the rounds of the cam making sure to visit every vehicle in the hopes of getting some nibbles!

Later in the afternoon Ray and Alvan chose to take an afternoon drive, while Alec and I chose to sit and enjoy the waterhole at the camp. There were the ubiquitous springbok which we saw everywhere – but they are so dainty and gorgeous that seeing them every few minutes was still a pleasure. Then a lovely herd of zebra came down. They made a fantastic sight against the white background at the waterhole. It was a pleasure to sit comfortably and watch them come down to drink. Viewing wildlife has got to be one of the best past times there are!

Before we had gone to sit by the waterhole, Alec mentioned that the campsite seemed rather empty but we thought nothing of it. Coming back from the waterhole in the early evening we were astounded at the change in the camp. Swarms of hire vehicles with rooftop tents had descended on the camp and the place was packed. We could only stand and gape at the difference, and we found that this seemed to be the way things worked. Each day the camp emptied and in the early evening, the droves arrived again and the place went mad! It was just too busy for us, and we looked forward to being able to move somewhere quieter.

The first evening we decided to give ourselves a treat and eat out at the restaurant.  Very fortunately we had booked a table as the restaurant was absolutely packed. Unfortunately, the service suffered and the poor serving staff was rushed off their feet. Very rarely did one hear English or Afrikaans spoken; it was mostly French, Dutch and German.

We also tried the WIFI but there were just so many people all trying to use the same bandwidth that getting connected was a very hit-and-miss affair. Alvan connected her phone but Ray and I just couldn’t get a look in anywhere. Eventually, we gave up and trotted off to our camp. After a quick shower, we fell asleep to the accompaniment of the jackals shrieking in the distance.

The next morning it was off to explore the park and find a nice waterhole to enjoy. With the heat still being felt by late morning, it was pointless trying to drive around as there was nothing to see. We chose our waterhole and watched the zebra, springbok, gemsbok, kudu and wildebeest come to drink. After a while, the heat drove us back to camp.

We again visited the waterhole in the afternoon and we were lucky enough to have a Black Rhino come to drink with five giraffe.

After supper, we spent more time at the waterhole enjoying the cool evening and the floodlit water. I was surprised to see a Fork-Tailed Drongo hawking for insects in the light. He should have been tucked up in bed by that time, but had learned that he could catch insects in the light of the waterhole.

We sat quietly listening to the night sounds when faintly we heard footsteps and the pebbles crunching as something approached. Out of the darkness appeared a large elephant bull. With his white coat of dust, he appeared as a ghost, and he slowly made his way around the pool to the place he wanted to drink. Majestic! Five black rhino also appeared and kept to the far side of the pool, when another elephant bull slowly appeared in the light. It was a pleasure to sit and watch the interaction between the bulls.

Bed was calling and we had to pack up as we were to leave for the Safari Lodge the next day.

On our way out to the Safari Lodge, we came across a couple of cars parked on the side of the road. They showed us where there were lions, who had killed a giraffe the night before. Needless to say, the lions were mostly lying fast asleep but we did manage to get one quick shot of one of the lionesses. Continuing on we stopped at a waterhole to enjoy the zebra and springbok.

On leaving Anderson Gate you are searched for meat. This is a Veterinary Control Point and you are asked to sign a declaration that you do not have any meat from cloven hoof animals (beef, goat, lamb etc). You have to open your fridge and freezer, and the inspectors examine everything that is in there, removing anything that contravenes the regulations. As were aware of this we had nothing confiscated as our meat was safely in the freezer at the Safari Lodge.

The camp at the Safari Lodge (12km from Anderson Gate) was a great change; there was grass and lots of trees! We set up camp and simply reveled in walking barefoot on the grass. There were lots of lovely birds to keep us occupied.

The next day we drove back to the Park and came across the lion kill again. Now the lions had departed and there was a Spotted Hyena, Jackals, and Vultures enjoying the scraps that were left.

We went on to enjoy a lovely game drive toward Halali. Again we saw the usual suspects such as springbok, gemsbok, zebra and wildebeest but we were also lucky enough to see a beautiful Kudu bull and a small herd of Impala. I was surprised to see Impala in the Park. I thought it would be too dry for them. We also came across several elephant bulls standing out starkly against the vegetation. Of course, there were several birds that caught our eye.

There are few things that calm the soul like sitting in nature and enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of the country. It brings peace to the soul and after the past few frazzled days driving over bad roads; Etosha was just the balm we needed!

The next stop on our trip was Outjo on the way to Epupa Falls. We left the Safari Park, early as the drive to Outjo was to be almost 500 kilometers. We had intended to stay at Etosha’s Olifantsrus Camp and exit from the western gate of the park, but we couldn’t get accommodation there. Speaking to a gentleman in the Park, it seems we were lucky not to get a place at Olifantsrus as the road between Okaukuejo and Olifantsrus is almost impassable due to rain damage.

We drove from Ethosha back towards Outjo, and then turned toward Kamanjab. We stopped for fuel in Kamanjab and were mobbed by women selling craft items. There must have been 29 or 30 women all selling similar items and begging you to buy them. It was a sad sight as the poverty in the area was very apparent. After refueling we made our way toward Opuwo.

We arrived at the Opuwo Country Hotel, where we were booked in for one night. While standing at reception, we asked the owner what the condition of the road was like between Opuwo and Epupa Falls. He said that the road was very bad, so bad in fact that he had stopped offering day trips to Epupa Falls due to the damage caused to his Land Cruisers.

Alec and I discussed the issue and decided that we really didn’t want to drive another bad road, so we made the decision to put Epupa Falls back onto the bucket list, and to turn around and head for Divundu instead. Ray and Alvan continued on to the falls.  

Well, I must close here so I can get this off to Helen. Take care, everyone.

A note aside:

A few of my non-travelling friends may not know what I mean by a veterinary line. A quick explanation is that the south of Namibia is foot and mouth free, which is why they are able to export meat products overseas. The north of Namibia does not have the same status so there is a veterinary line across the country. Meat may be taken south to north, but may not be brought in the opposite direction. This is to ensure that any contaminated meat, blood or other products, from cloven hoof animals, which could cause an outbreak of foot and mouth, are not introduced to the south.