I am making the most of the South African Lifestyle and hope with my blog to share some of the adventures my husband and I are having in our retirement. We live at the Southern Tip of Africa in the small coastal town of Struisbaai. Earl and I have a Gecko off-road caravan and we travel around South Africa frequently. We are bird and wildlife enthusiasts so are often in game reserves.
Life was hectic through November and the start of December, and I fell behind on both reading and writing blogs. Thankfully, things have settled down a little, and I’m easing back into it again.
Did anyone read you bedtime stories as a child? My mother often read to my siblings and me, though not always at bedtime. I treasured those moments well into my older childhood, especially since I had a much younger brother. (I read to him too!) Winnie the Pooh, Beatrix Potter’s tales, and The Wind in the Willows were firm favourites.
Did you read bedtime stories to anyone? As a primary school teacher, I read to my classes regularly. I also read to my younger brother, my children, and later my grandchildren—though not always at bedtime.
Reading The Grinch who Stole Christmas to my grandchildren
Do you prefer books, ebooks, or audiobooks? My first choice will always be a proper book. That said, I’m not opposed to Kindle reading, and I also enjoy audiobooks. I usually have one on the go—they’re wonderful companions while walking, driving, or tackling household chores.
What is your favourite fairy tale? As a child, I disliked fairy tales, finding them cruel and frightening. Wicked stepmothers abandoning children in forests or poisoning stepdaughters with apples—those were the stuff of nightmares! But as a teenager, I began reading them for myself and grew to love them. I read them to my younger brother too, and he enjoyed them. My favourite is The Frog Prince. After all, don’t we all have to kiss a few frogs before finding our prince? Beyond that, the story’s moral about keeping promises is truly inspiring.
Gratitude I love the meme for this week’s SYW. I am truly thankful for my Fairytale life. I kissed the right frog and won my prince, I became a step-mother and didn’t abandon them in the woods, I got to live in a beautiful ‘castle’ with everything I needed, my ‘coach’ gets me to faraway places and I am surrounded by princes and princesses who bring us great joy.
Do you have a keepsake box (where you retain special cards, pictures, letters, things that are special to you)? Yes, I have a few keepsake boxes, though I haven’t added to them recently. Inside are cards our children gave to my husband and me, which are such fun to revisit and relive the cuteness of those moments. I’ve also kept photos, cards, and mementos from my teaching days. More than any gift, I truly treasure the heartfelt messages I’ve received.
2. What has made you smile lately? There’s been plenty to smile about lately. I Airbnb my spare rooms, and November has been my busiest month since I started three years ago—that alone made me smile. But even more so, the guests themselves have brought joy. It’s been wonderful meeting such a variety of people: a cyclist from Switzerland, a biker from Nelspruit, an ex-Gautenger who has just moved to the Cape and is finding it’s like another planet, a quiet yet adventurous German girl who now calls Grahamstown home, and an expat South African from Luxembourg who is building a holiday home here in Struisbaai. On top of that, I’ve had a long-term guest (Skiboat Mobile Man) who is like a brother to me. He has just returned to England, though he’ll be back in January.
The Earl and The Radio Man – At Arniston Western Cape
3. Are you a morning person or a night owl? I used to be a morning person when I was working and raising kids. My husband and I were perfectly in sync with our routines—early to rise and early to bed. These days, though, I’m not quite sure what I am. I don’t mind waking up early, but in winter I tend to linger, and I rarely go to sleep before 11 p.m. or later. I often wake during the night and end up reading or playing games on my phone until fatigue finally wins.
Still, I’m content with the arrangement because when I do sleep, it feels refreshing, and I don’t walk around exhausted. That said, I suspect I average less than six hours of sleep in a 24-hour period—unless I’m unwell, in which case I sleep endlessly! My husband, on the other hand, has no trouble at all drifting off. He’s in bed early, sleeps late, and even manages two naps a day.
4. Do you prefer to be hosts or guests at a dinner party or family event? I’ve definitely hosted more dinner parties and gatherings than I’ve ever attended as a guest. Luckily, my hubby and I both enjoy cooking, so the kitchen duties are always a team effort. They still are, but I tend to do more now that he is getting older. I have in the past been very spoilt, and I appreciate just what an amazing man I married.
Now, don’t get the wrong idea—this isn’t MasterChef territory. At my place, it’s potluck style: take it or leave it! Nothing fancy, no exotic ingredients, and you won’t find fine china anywhere near the table. What you will find is wholesome, tasty food—because if you’re looking for junk, you’ve knocked on the wrong door. I’m a bit of a health nut, so everything is free of additives and sugar.
But don’t worry, dessert is still on the menu. It’ll be sugar-free, gluten-free, and if you’re very lucky, there might even be ice cream… served with something virtuous like strawberries, just to keep me honest!
What was the last book you read? My goal at the beginning of this year was to read 40 books and what a great year it has been. Almost all have been excellent reads. I am currently on number 38 – The Precipice by Robert Harris. I have just finished reading Ancestry by Simon Mawer which is a historical novel where he uses facts from his research about his ancestors and blends it with what he imagines might have happened in their lives. It follows figures like Abrahm Block, a very poor farm boy who leaves home at 15 to go to sea, and George Mawer a soldier in the Crimean War but the focus is really on the very strong and resilient women who were left, without compensation from the army or merchant navy to take care of their families.
Do you think movies are better or worse than the books they are based on? I prefer to read the book before watching its film adaptation. While it frustrates me when a movie strays too far from the original story, I usually enjoy the film version too. I never imagined that 84 Charing Cross Road, a collection of letters between a London book dealer and an American rare book collector, could translate well to the screen. Yet the adaptation was brilliant, and I ended up loving both the book and the movie equally.
What is the most memorable movie soundtrack or theme to you? I was about twelve or thirteen when I first watched The Sound of Music, and it has never lost its magic. Even now, I could happily sit down and watch it all over again. Who could ever forget that opening line — “The hills are alive with the sound of music”? Another song that has stayed close to my heart is Fill the World with Love from Goodbye, Mr. Chips. As someone who has taught small children, its message resonates deeply with me.
Did you enjoy the old musicals (Fred Astaire, Gene Kelly, Howard Keel, Doris Day etc) In my twenties, I found endless joy in the reruns of old musicals. Among them, one that has never left my heart is the 1936 classic Rose Marie, with Nelson Eddy and Jeanette MacDonald. Their duet, Indian Love Call, still echoes in my memory — a hauntingly beautiful song that carries the romance of voices reaching across the distance, as timeless today as it was then.
Gratitude Everything worked out well for me this past week and for that I am truly grateful.
Can you remember your first wage packet? Was it cash, a cheque or paid directly into your bank account? I seem to remember it was a cheque for which I had to sign.
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Do you prefer to shop with cash or card? I’ve relied on credit cards, debit cards, and EFT for years now. Here in South Africa, carrying cash just isn’t safe, so we avoid it entirely.
Looks pretty – Not worth much!
Do you know the price of half a dozen eggs? I must admit, I’m not one to track the price of every item so I had to consult my till slip to answer this one. Just yesterday, I picked up three half-dozen boxes of free-range eggs from Woolworths (our local equivalent of Marks & Spencer). They were priced at R31,99 each, but thanks to a promotion, I received a R10,66 discount per box. With the exchange rate sitting at roughly £1 = R23, that works out to about £0.92 for each half dozen. A little digging revealed that Pick n Pay currently offers free-range eggs for just R18,33 (£0,80) per half dozen. I’m curious to see how these prices compare with what fellow bloggers are paying in their own corners of the world.
Thank You Chickens
Have you ever kept chickens? No, I have never kept chickens, but I have a young great-nephew who lives on a farm in another province, and he has been keeping chickens since he was in primary school. (He is now 19 years old) I have sampled his free-range eggs, and they are excellent!
Gratitude There’s much I’m thankful for these days. Even if I may have overpaid for my last batch of eggs, I’m fortunate to be able to afford them without worry. This past Saturday brought a joyful moment—I joined my “adopted grandchild” for a fun run/walk at the local school. I’m deeply grateful that I’m still fit enough to take part in such simple pleasures. Long-time readers will know we parted ways with our caravan earlier this year, which meant we no longer needed the Ford Everest for towing. I was never quite at ease behind the wheel of that large vehicle, and after a minor gear mishap, we decided it was time for a change. I’m now the proud owner of a Toyota Corolla Cross Hybrid—a more manageable ride that suits me perfectly. And for that, too, I’m grateful.
Last week, Mitchell, a little girl whom I have claimed as my ‘granddaughter’ brought home a form for a 5km Colour Fun Run at Zoetendal Academy, where she is in Grade 2. It was open to kids and any adults brave enough to join. “That sounds like fun!” I declared, and before I knew it, I’d filled in both our names and paid the entrance fee. What was I thinking? I haven’t jogged in eight years! Still, I walk regularly, so I figured I could give it a go.
My good intentions were to get fit during the following week, enough to jog at least a quarter of the way, but—well, life happened, and I didn’t! So, when the day dawned cool and cloudy (thank goodness for no heat exhaustion), my little lass arrived bursting with enthusiasm. We were among the earliest to register at the school, ready for whatever the day would bring.
The route was simply breathtaking. Zoetendal Academy is nestled in the picturesque village of Cape Agulhas, and we ran (and walked!) from the school, past the iconic lighthouse, all the way to the southernmost tip of Africa and back. The vibe at the school was electric—music played, kids danced and played, and everyone buzzed with anticipation.
Just before the start, buckets of poster paints were set out, and at a signal, everyone grabbed handfuls and threw colours over each other. Oh, what glorious fun! My friend Michele was there with a group of spirited ladies, including one who was 82 and game for it all.
When the bell rang, we all set off. Mitchell dashed ahead, not looking back to see if Granny was okay (I was, just at a much slower pace!). Yes, I did jog—very slowly—with long spells of brisk walking in between. Okay, mostly walking, and not so fast! But the route was stunning, the weather perfect, and the marshals cheered us on at every turn. It warmed my heart to see so many families supporting their children, even the tiniest ones riding on their dads’ shoulders when the going got tough.
Mitchell on left in striped t-shirt -rearing to go!The bell rings and they’re off!The famous lighthouse up aheadKeeping up the paceMarshal cheering us on A Shark encouraging our legs to last
I thought I was making pretty good progress to the half-way mark when I saw the front runners returning. They hadn’t even broken a sweat! And the toughies were even bare foot!
Here come the front runnersLook Mom – No shoes!Look Gran, I’ve also got no shoes! Mitchell did really well – Thanks to the mom in this picture for keeping an eye on her!
On the return route, I caught up with a woman about my age. We chatted in Afrikaans, sharing our walking histories. Near the finish, she said, “Kom, ons draf—Come, let’s jog,” and so we did—though she beat me. Well she is a year younger!
Hannetjie and Me
To our surprise, one of the lovely organisers offered us each a free hot dog for being the oldest participants. We declined (neither of us eat bread!), so we settled for jumbo sparkling waters instead. Then, to our delight, we were called to the podium—along with the 82-year-old mentioned earlier —and were each presented with a generous prize envelope. Sometimes, the elderly are NOT invisible and are truly appreciated for supporting the schools their young relatives and friends attend.
The winners in each category—men, women, boys, and girls—were awarded gold, silver and bronze medals and gift packs sponsored by Pick’n’Pay
Mitchell and her classmate proudly wear their medals.Mitchell and me – Proud of our medals!
My little grandchild was thrilled with her participant medal, but when she saw the champions being crowned and me being presented with something special, she asked, “Will I get a prize?” I gently explained that only three in each category can win, but there would be some lucky draw winners.
She smiled bravely and said, “I’ve had fun anyway.” “Of course you have,” I replied, “and that’s what matters most.” Still, I could see a tiny bit of disappointment, so I sent out positive vibes as the lucky draw prizes were announced. Prize after prize was called— my next-door neighbours each won a prize- two from the same family? How lucky is that! Then only two were left. “Oh, please, let Mitchell be one of them.” And YES—the very last name called was Mitchell! The look of surprised delight on her face was priceless. She was over the moon.
When we got home, she opened her prize—It was not gold – it was so much better – a beautiful pink handbag, perfect for a little girl who is mad about bags, especially pink ones. What a wonderful ending to her exciting day.
Champions for a day!
Zoetendal Academy, what an incredible event this was! The organisation was superb, the music uplifting, the food delicious, and the atmosphere simply amazing. Thank you for making this such a memorable outing for young and old alike.
Introduction from Helen Camping—what’s not to love? It’s the ultimate escape from the frantic pace of modern life. But let’s be honest—while most campers are delightful, there’s always the odd one who is thoughtless and does not consider his/her fellow man. That’s where a gentle nudge toward camping etiquette comes in handy. Not rules, exactly—more like friendly reminders that keep the peace and preserve the magic.Perhaps these reminders should appear in brochures, blogs and signs in ablution blogs and reception areas. Cathy, our guest blogger, has penned a brilliant guide to the unwritten rules of the wild. Her tips are thoughtful, practical, and worth considering.
(Images are AI generated)
Camping Etiquette: The Unwritten Rules of the Wild There’s a quiet code among campers—an unspoken agreement that we’re all here to enjoy nature, not to intrude on each other’s peace. Whether you’re tucked into a remote corner of the bush or sharing space at a bustling national park, a little courtesy keeps the experience magical for everyone. These were rules taught to me by my parents—simple, thoughtful guidelines for camping that I’ve lived by through all my years in the bush. They shaped how I move through wild spaces: with care, respect, and a touch of old-school courtesy. But lately I’ve found myself wondering—are these still relevant? Or have we moved on from these quiet codes of conduct?
Remember Your Manners
Respect the Soundscape Nature has its own rhythm—wind through the trees, the distant call of a nightjar, the soft crackle of a fire. It’s a symphony that doesn’t need a bass boost. Keep conversations gentle, music low, and save the dramatic retelling of your cousin’s wedding for daylight hours. Quiet hours aren’t just campground rules—they’re a kindness to the early risers, the light sleepers, and the wildlife who didn’t sign up for your playlist.
Listen to the sounds of Nature
Stay in Your Lane (and Out of Theirs) It might seem harmless to cut across someone’s campsite to reach the ablution block or a friend’s site, but it’s a bit like walking through their living room. Campsites are personal spaces, even if they’re just a patch of grass and a folding chair. Stick to paths, respect boundaries, and if you’re unsure—circle wide. A friendly wave from a distance is always better than a surprise appearance next to someone’s kettle.
Teach your kids to respect the space of others
Leave No Trace (and No Toast Crumbs) The principle is simple: take out what you bring in or dispose of it in the proper place. That includes food scraps, packaging, and the dirty water from your in-van shower. Wildlife doesn’t need our leftovers, and fellow campers shouldn’t have to pick up or clean up after you. Use bins, if provided, or pack your waste out. Bonus points for picking up a stray wrapper that isn’t yours—karma in the wild is real.
Keep your space clean
Share the Space Campsites aren’t private kingdoms. Be mindful of how your setup affects others—don’t sprawl across paths, block scenic views, or monopolize communal areas like picnic tables or fire pits. If your tent looks like it’s auditioning for a glamping magazine, make sure it’s not encroaching on someone else’s peace. A bit of spatial awareness and a friendly hello go a long way in building a respectful camping community.
A considerate set-up
Nighttime Courtesy: Torch Use and Awareness Walking at night around the camp demands a little extra mindfulness. A torch isn’t just helpful—it’s essential. It prevents you from tripping over roots or stepping on something far less forgiving, like a snake or a scorpion. But how you use it matters. It’s too easy to blind other campers with torches that are waved around. The trick is to keep the light low, pointed at the ground, lighting your path without disturbing others. Headlamps are handy, but they require extra mindfulness—tilt them down and resist the urge to look directly at people while chatting.
Use torches thoughtfully
Fire with Care There’s something primal about gathering around a fire—but it’s also a responsibility. Use designated braai areas, keep flames manageable, and never leave a fire unattended. When the embers die down, make sure they’re truly out. Our Tearful Bokkie may be fictional, but the risk isn’t.
Make sure campfires are properly extinguished
Hygiene Happens Washing dishes at the tap, brushing teeth next to the water tank, leaving a shower stall swamped, or rinsing muddy boots and ground-sheets in the shower block? Maybe not. Use proper facilities, biodegradable soap, and keep shared spaces clean for the next person. If you don’t want to step in it barefoot, don’t leave it behind. And yes, that includes toothpaste blobs, hair in the shower drain, and rogue spaghetti strands. Camping is about connection—with nature, with others, and with ourselves. A little etiquette ensures the experience stays wild in all the right ways.
Use the correct facility and leave it spotless for the next camper
Solar Struggles and Starry Nights: Tsendze and Beyond
As I mentioned in our last post, our departure for Tsendze was delayed by a bit of roadside camaraderie. Waldo and Desiré, fellow campers, had car trouble, and Alec offered to help. After a trip to Phalaborwa and some mechanical magic, the comforting roar of Waldo’s engine signalled success. We packed up, said a warm farewell to our new friends, and finally hit the road.
The drive to Tsendze was lovely—clear skies and a gentle warmth that would later climb to a blistering 37°C. We stopped at Mopani Camp to check in, where the ever-friendly ladies at reception greeted us with their usual friendly faces. Tsendze is one of the few Kruger camps where sites are allocated, so after receiving our spot, we drove the eight or so kilometres back to the entrance.
The gates at Tsendze are a bit of a landmark, and as always, Alec did a quick scan of the bush to ensure I wouldn’t become a widow before opening them. We found campsite #5 and were thrilled to see a large tree offering generous shade—much needed, as the heat had become oppressive and there’s no electricity at Tsendze. Our aircon was out of the question, so we relied solely on our 12V system to keep the fridge and lights going.
Once the van was set up and the solar panels laid out to catch what sun they could, we returned to Mopani for a lazy lunch on the deck overlooking Pioneer Dam. The elephants were having a glorious pool party—splashing, playing, and generally making us wish we could join them.
An Elephant Pool Party at Pioneer dam
Back at camp, the afternoon drifted by as we enjoyed the birds and squirrels in the surrounding bush. As evening fell and the heat softened, we settled in with our customary drinks and opted for a simple sandwich supper, still full from lunch and not quite ready to brave the stove.
As tradition goes, Roger popped by to welcome us. He’s a fixture at Tsendze — knowledgeable, kind, and always ready with a story. He apologized for the foot traffic near our site; a nest of barn owls had drawn curious children from across the camp. Roger’s passion for and knowledge of the birds and animals of the area is encyclopaedic, especially when it comes to owls. It’s always a pleasure chatting with him.
Kruger’s bird life felt like a living field guide. We enjoyed watching them in camp and on our drives. There were many different species but there are a few that are our favourites.
A majestic martial eagle
Marabou Storks were at the end of the line when looks were handed out
A Pale Chanting Goshawk peers out
Mocking Cliff Chat poses beautifully
Ford Tailed Drongos were everywhere
A Kurrichane Thrush looks for supper
Egrets and a Cormorant look for supper
Alec’s favourite Bird – Yellow Billed Hornbill
Burchells Coucal dozes in the sun
Crested Francolin are accomplished beggars
Gorgeous Tawny Eagle
Bennet’s Woodpecker
Southern Ground Hornbills
Beautiful mature Bataleur
White fronted Bee Eater waiting for prey
Busy Magpie Shrike
African Jacana forages in the shallows
After a refreshing shower, we turned in early, eager to explore the area the next day. But morning greeted us with thick cloud cover — a camper’s nemesis when relying on solar power. Our panels, usually reliable in partial sun, couldn’t keep up under the heavy skies. With our battery struggling, we made another trip to Mopani to see if we could swap our booking for a powered site at Letaba. The receptionist worked her magic and found us a place one night, which was better than nothing, especially with school holidays filling up the camps.
We packed up and headed back to Letaba, grateful for the reprieve and already making mental notes about upgrading our electrical setup. Lithium batteries? Better panels? A puzzle for another day.
Letaba welcomed us with a lovely site, and we spent the afternoon revisiting some of our favourite spots—the bridge over the river, Engelhart Dam, and the loops off the Phalaborwa Road. Kruger, as always, delivered. One of my favourite sightings was a line of elephant bulls marching out of the bush to drink at a reservoir—majestic and utterly grounding.
On a blazing day these zebra needed a drink
Buffalo also drinking at the same waterhole
An unusual Kruger sighting – Tsessebe
Five Bulls in a row
Enjoying the freshest water
Hippos ignore the Yellow-billed Storks
Some of the most fearsome jaws in nature
Giraffe necking – some of those hits must have hurt
Waterbuck bulls are more interested in the ladies than us
Just outside camp on our final drive, we had one of those rare sightings that makes you blink twice and wonder if your eyes are playing tricks. We were meandering along the river loops when a flash of white darted across the road in front of us. We stopped immediately, and there it was—perched to the left, a pure white squirrel. I scrambled for my camera, but of course, it chose that moment to focus on the nearest leaves. By the time I’d adjusted, the squirrel had vanished into the undergrowth.
Whether it was a true albino or leucistic, I couldn’t say. But what struck me most was how starkly its snowy coat stood out against the muted tones of the bush—like a tiny beacon in a world of camouflage. It’s a wonder it’s survived to adulthood, given how visible it must be to every predator, feathered or four-legged. We could only hope this little ghost of the veld continues to evade its predators.
My out of focus pic of the squirrel
Back at camp, we found ourselves surrounded by twelve Maui motor homes, all part of a French tour group. They’d formed a loose circle, and our little Gecko stood out like a lone ranger. The evening was quiet, punctuated by night sounds and snippets of French conversation drifting through the air.
The next morning marked the start of our 2,000-kilometre journey home. As always, leaving Kruger felt like leaving a piece of ourselves behind.
Sunset on our holiday!
Impressions of Kruger
This visit brought a pleasant surprise: signs of real maintenance. Letaba now has a new electrified diamond mesh fence, and the new shop is a welcome upgrade. The debris from the old, burned-down shop has finally been cleared. Though we were a bit unsettled by the sight of a large animal trap near the campsite—what exactly were they hoping to catch?
Across the camps, things looked more cared for. Gardens were tended, paths swept, and for the first time in ages, we didn’t spot toilet paper strewn along the loops near the Letaba River. On our last visit, it had been a real eyesore.
We had a wonderful time—short, but rich with wildlife, quiet moments, and the kind of peace only the bush can offer. There’s nothing quite like sitting under a sky full of stars, drink in hand, the scent of roasting meat in the air. The calls of Scops Owls and nightjars blend with jackal howls, hyena whoops, and every now and then, the deep, primal roar of a lion.
Kruger is more than a destination—it’s a balm for the soul. And it’s a place we’ll keep returning to, again and again.
1. The clocks go back at the end of October here in the UK. Does your country do the same? Here in South Africa, our clocks stay put all year round. We do not spring ahead in Spring or fall behind in Autumn (Fall) I live in Struisbaai in The Western Cape, which sits farther south—closer to the 35°S latitude—which means it experiences more pronounced seasonal shifts in daylight when the sun rises earlier and sets later in the warmer months. On the Summer Solstice (21 December), we enjoy 14 hours and 32 minutes of daylight, with the sun rising at 05:00 and setting at 19:32. First light tiptoes in around 04:30, and full darkness settles by 20:30. In contrast, the Winter Solstice (21 June) brings a more modest 9 hours and 50 minutes of daylight. The sun rises at 07:46, sets at 17:36, and true darkness arrives by 19:00. Inland and northern regions like Pretoria or Limpopo are closer to the equator, so their daylight hours stay more consistent year-round. South African Standard Time is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time.
Not in South Africa
2. Do you enjoy Halloween? In Struisbaai, where I live, they haven’t a clue about Halloween. Most of the permanent residents are retirees, and our local shops will not be stocking broomsticks, witches’ hats, or bat-shaped biscuits. Nor will giant pumpkins or jack-o-lanterns decorate the front gardens of our neighbours’ homes. In the ten years that I’ve lived here, no scary creature has threatened me with trick or treat. My first inkling that Halloween had crept into South Africa was in the early 2000s when my grandson was just four years old. I’d picked him up from pre-school and he’d solemnly declared: “Granny—if a monster comes to the door, don’t worry, I will protect you.” Clearly, something spooky had been discussed at preschool. And sure enough, at 5 PM, a witch knocked. Did my brave protector leap into action? Not quite—he clung to my knees with a terrified look in his eyes. A year or two later, all fear of monsters disappeared, and he and his brother joined the goblins and fairies who would trawl the neighbourhood in supervised groups, knocking on doors and demanding sugar in exchange for cuteness.
Dracula
These days, Halloween parties are popping up here and there. But in Struisbaai, it’s still just another day. I do keep a jar of sweeties on standby. The local kid count is rising, and it’s only a matter of time before they realise they’re missing out on a perfectly good excuse to dress up and get free sweets!
3. Dare I ask if you are preparing for Christmas? If you do not celebrate it in your country, do you have any December traditions? Christmas is all about family for us. Each year, our three daughters, son-in-law, and four grandchildren gather for two blissful weeks at our second-born’s home in Plettenberg Bay. Now that the “kids” are older, we’ve embraced the simplicity of Secret Santa—just one thoughtful gift each, which keeps the pressure low and the laughter high. Our money is better spent on outings, adventures and memory-making experiences. When it comes to Christmas dinner, it’s a team effort. Everyone pitches in, and I usually take the reins on the Leg of Lamb and Greek Salad—my festive specialties. The day itself? Always fabulous. Full of food, fun, and the kind of togetherness that makes the season truly sparkle.
Our Christmas Table
4. Are you likely to have snow anytime soon? Not very likely in the Western Cape but snow can fall in the Drakensberg Mountains at any time of the year, though it is less likely in the summer months.
Santa on Struisbaai Beach – Look guys, no snow!
Gratitude
I am certainly grateful that the cold of winter is retreating in favour of Spring sunshine and warmer day, Although, having expressed that, it is blowing a gale and raining here today. No complaints about the rain – it is always welcome. Our car is in need of a service and repair to the automatic gearbox – it refused to go into reverse the other day. I’m grateful that it did come right but we haven’t driven the car since for fear it will happen again. I am grateful that we have a car and that it will just take a tweak to get it back to full, reliable working order again. Imagine if it had happened in the bush with an elephant charging toward us!
In my previous blog, I mistakenly referred to our meal stop as the Farmers Market at Alzu. The correct name is the Farmer’s Bistro. I also mentioned we were heading to Mopani, when in fact it was Maroela—clearly, I mixed up my trees! These slip-ups have now been corrected in the earlier posts.
From Kopjies to Riverbeds: A Journey Through Kruger We left Berg-en-Dal early, eager to explore a new corner of the Park—Maroela, a satellite campsite near Orpen. The drive was, once again, a joy. Kruger never disappoints when it comes to wildlife, and this leg of the trip gifted us one of the Park’s most elusive treasures: a pack of wild dogs lounging in a riverbed. These endangered canines are high on every visitor’s wish list, and although we’d hoped to spot the resident pack near Satara, we were lucky enough to encounter them much earlier.
Not long after, we found a young leopard trying to get comfortable in a tree. Choosing the right, smooth branch for a lazy day is very important.
Young leopard doing its best to get comfortable
Our First Glimpse of the Dogs
Wild Dogs in the river bed
Every river has its crocodiles! Not long after, we came across a pride of lions—albeit far from the road. It always amazes me how some people can spot the faintest flicker of movement or a subtle shape in the distance. One kind soul pointed out a green mound near a cluster of trees, and sure enough, through binoculars, nine lions lay dozing in the sun. I’ll never stop marvelling at the eyesight of seasoned bush-goers!
Lions Lazing in the sunshine
One young male keeps watch
A Pitstop at Satara By midday, we reached the Orpen turnoff and decided to pop into Satara for lunch and fuel. A delicious chicken salad at the Cattle Baron hit the spot, and with a full tank, we made our way to Maroela.
Along the way, we were lucky to encounter another rarity at Kruger, the Southern Ground Hornbill. In fact, we saw these magnificent birds a few times. Did you know that these birds are the largest hornbill in the world and one of the heaviest flying birds in South Africa?
A Gorgeous Ground Hornbill
Another prime viewing was watching this young Bataleur play in a puddle! This daft young bird hopped around, sipped a little, and thought about bathing. It fluffed its feathers, dipped down, and then hopped away again. It went through this performance a few times before tiring of the game and moving off. What a pleasure to see a young animal just enjoying itself.
A young Bataleur playing in a puddle
Maroela: Quiet Charm by the River After the bustling energy of Satara, Maroela was a breath of fresh air. Small, quiet, and reminiscent of Tsendze, it offered a peaceful retreat. The gate system is self-managed, and many sites overlook the river—dry at the time, but still frequented by elephants and giraffe. The ablutions, though a bit dated, were spotless. And the showers? Miraculously well-behaved! No rogue spray patterns—just a steady stream of water where it was meant to go. We quickly settled into a lovely site and headed out for our first drive. The veld around Maroela looked tired, a clear sign of the dry season’s end. Still, the area was alive with elephants, giraffe, impala, kudu, and more. We’ve never been the type to chase only the big cats. There’s so much beauty in the quieter creatures, and we find endless joy in watching them go about their day.
Everyone waiting to drink from the last pool of water
So many beautiful giraffes
A roadblock you don’t argue with
Side-eye from a Hippo
Zebra drink at Nsemani Dam
Rain and Reflection On our last night at Maroela, the heavens opened. Rain at last! I swear the bush sighed in relief. Thankfully, we’d packed away our awning the night before, so there was no soggy canvas to wrestle with in the morning. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off for Letaba—one of our favourite camps.
Letaba: The Place of Sand We made good time and arrived late morning, finding a semi-shady site near the fence. Most trees here are Mopani, and at this time of year, they’re bare. It’s a blessing for game viewing—you can see much deeper into the bush, but shade is scarce in the camp. One of Kruger’s prettiest sights is the Letaba River from the bridge. It’s a haven for waterbuck, hippos, and birds. We spotted African Spoonbills, Three-banded Plovers, Goliath and Grey Herons, Saddle-billed Storks, and the resident Fish Eagle pair.
One of the prettiest views – Letaba River from the bridge
A Waterbuck ram dines on water plant
A pied kingfisher waits for a meal to swim by
Drives and Discoveries Letaba offers a variety of scenic drives, and we explored most of them during our three-day stay. Elephants were everywhere, and giraffe sightings were particularly lovely. Wildebeest, zebra, and kudu kept us entertained throughout. On our final afternoon, we stumbled upon a lion kill—perhaps one of the most dramatic sightings we’ve had. Two lionesses were feasting on a buffalo right beside the road. The sound of bones cracking in the silence was a visceral reminder of their power. It’s no wonder the bushveld lives in awe—and fear—of these magnificent creatures.
Lions feast on a buffalo
We could clearly hear the crunching of bones
Elephant Hall – A Must Visit Of course, no visit to Letaba is complete without once again standing in awe of the tusks of the magnificent tuskers that have lived at Kruger. The Elephant Hall museum is a mine of information about the elephants of the Kruger, and there are many fascinating exhibits to look at, all related to elephants and their life cycles. There is also a small exhibit of different skulls and skins of other animals in the park. This small museum is well worth a visit if you are in the area.
Life-size statue outside the Elephant Hall
Loads of info about elephants
Each tusker has his own display with his tusks
Selection of skulls and skins from other critters
Stars, Braai, and a Glass of Merlot That evening, we watched the resident hyena pace along the fence, enjoyed a sundowner, and soaked in the peace of camp life. There’s nothing quite like a star-filled sky, the scent of braai in the air, and a glass of merlot in hand. Again that night, the heavens opened, and we had a terrific thunderstorm. The wind howled and the rain pelted down. Again, the bush got a good watering so I am sure that the green grass is not far away! A Morning Mishap and a Friendly Fix The next morning brought a hiccup—our neighbours’ Toyota battery had died overnight. Even a jumpstart couldn’t revive it. Alec drove Waldo to Phalaborwa for a replacement, which delayed our departure for Tsendze. But in true bush spirit, we made new friends, so it was a win-win. Now, as we head off to Tsendze—where there’s no 220v—the next chapter of this blog will have to wait. But something tells me it’ll be worth the pause.
From Bass Lake to Crocodile Bridge: Surprises, Sightings, and a Mop-Wielding Warthog Wrangler
We left Bass Lake early, slightly anxious about finding our way back to the N4 and bracing ourselves for the inevitable convoy of trucks. Thankfully, we navigated back to the N1 without a hitch and soon merged onto the N4. It was busy, as expected, but the dual lanes made for a smooth enough drive.
With no breakfast in our bellies, we decided to stop at the next promising spot—and that turned out to be Alzu. What a surprise! We expected the usual roadside pit stop: a fuel station, maybe a tired-looking restaurant. Instead, Alzu felt like someone had plucked a strip mall from Joburg and dropped it in the middle of the bush. Multiple restaurants, a shop that could rival a small city, and crowds of people everywhere.
After peeking into Mug & Bean and Spur, we opted for the quieter Farmer’s Bistro. Good call. They served up toasted egg and bacon sandwiches on thick farm bread—hearty, delicious, and paired with the obligatory mountain of chips. Alec and I couldn’t even finish ours.
Back on the road, we made good time until we hit a jaw-dropping queue of trucks near Komatipoort—15 kilometres of slow-moving metal. It made us wonder: where do these drivers eat, sleep, or even find a bathroom? Most of the ore trucks don’t have sleeper cabs, so it must be a rough few days inching forward.
Eventually, we turned off towards Crocodile Bridge and felt that familiar thrill—Kruger time. We’d never stayed at Croc Bridge before, and it turned out to be a gem. Neatly demarcated campsites (a rarity!), a warm welcome from the resident bushbuck, and a shady, safe spot for Lizzie, our caravan.
The camp was spotless, with beautifully tended gardens. We met a man wielding a bright green, slightly moth-eaten mop—his warthog deterrent. Apparently, the warthogs like to sleep under vehicles and have midnight tusk-fueled brawls that wreak havoc on wiring. Mop diplomacy at its finest.
Our game drives were fantastic. A courting pair of lions stole the show, but we also saw herds of impala, elegant kudu, and some lovely birds. Croc Bridge was the perfect start to our holiday.
That said, Monday marked the beginning of SAN Parks’ free access week, and the roads turned chaotic. Sightings always cause traffic jams, but with the surge in daily visitors, it was borderline gridlock.
Our courting couple off to find a roomA cute steenbok stopped to say helloOur first Ellies – Always a treatPlenty of beautiful giraffeThe scourge of Crocodile Bridge!
The Long Drive to Berg-en-Dal: Rhinos, Rock Formations, and a Camp That Could Use a Map
After two nights at Croc Bridge, we headed to Berg-en-Dal. We had three options: backtrack to the N4 and brave the trucks again, take the bone-rattling gravel road between Croc Bridge and Malelane, or enjoy a leisurely drive up the tar road via Skukuza. No contest—we chose the tar road and stopped at Lower Sabie for breakfast.
Berg-en-Dal was bustling. Cars, vans, tents—everywhere. It took a while to find a spot, and honestly, I wish SAN Parks would follow Croc Bridge’s lead and demarcate sites. At Berg-en-Dal, it was hard to tell where one site ended and another began. At one point, a tent was completely boxed in by vehicles, and a mini reshuffle was needed just to let the poor campers out.
Still, the sightings were wonderful. The landscape here is stunning—rocky kopjies and dramatic rock formations. It’s prime rhino territory, and we were lucky to spot a cow and her calf. The highlight, though, was a female leopard doing what leopards do best: napping. She was so relaxed, it felt like a privilege just to watch her breathe.
After two lovely days, it was time to pack up and head to Maroela—another first for us.
Such an elegant lady – female KuduA stunning lilac-breasted RollerBuffalo by the dozenAlec’s favourite bird – yellow-billed hornbillGrey Heron – head on!Mama Rhino with her calf
One sleepy leopardWonder if the elephant wanted to admire the fig
The Curse of the Smartphone: A Rant from the Riverbank
One thing I just can’t wrap my head around is the obsession with phones. At Lower Sabie’s Mug & Bean, we sat on the veranda overlooking the magnificent Sabie River. Birds flitted across the water, animals moved in the distance—and yet, most people were glued to their screens.
Before even greeting the waiter, phones were out, thumbs scrolling. No eye contact, no conversation, just a sea of faces lit by blue light. And it’s not just teenagers—it’s everyone. Why come to the park if your main interest is a 4×6 inch screen?
Don’t get me wrong—my phone’s a useful tool. But I sincerely hope it never becomes the most important thing in my life.
Adventuring into Retirement 