We left Karoo National Park at 07:20 and made our way to Warmwaterberg for a two-night stay before returning to Struisbaai.
The skies were clear and the roads were long but they were a pleasure to drive. Travelling the Meiringspoort Pass was awesome!
The Karoo roads are long and seem to go on forever – but the scenery is stunning
Meiringspoort Pass had some winding bends
The pictures don’t do it justice!
The pass ends at Derust where we stopped at Herrie’s Restaurant for breakfast.
We enjoyed the setting
A wholesome ontbyt (breakfast) with good Boere Koffie (coffee)
We had a good chuckle reading the many amusing signs
Isn’t that the truth!
Fortified by the good food we continued our journey to Warmwaterberg Hot Spring a place we visit quite often as it’s not too far from home for a short stay.
Warmwaterberg Hot Springs
It was lovely to have a caravan site right opposite the pool gate and away from the main campsite. This saved The Earl a long uphill walk back to camp!
Our Campsite with the pool in the background
At the braai!
We had some feathered visitors – This is a Karoo Thrush
The Peacocks were in a romantic mood
And furry visitors popped in too – feral cats abound – this one was quite tame.
We thoroughly enjoyed just chilling at our campsite and popping over to the pool. It’s the kind of place where everybody is friendly and there’s always someone to chat to in the pools.
We even got up in time to watch the sunrise!
We are now home in Struisbaai and found the garden looking not too bad from two weeks of neglect. The clivias are flowering beautifully! We had a gardener in today and after he’d mown the lawn everything looked pretty good.
The caravan has been thoroughly cleaned, the washing and ironing done so now we’re ready for the next trip!
After our wonderful three days in Addo, we moved on to Mountain Zebra National Park near Cradock in The Eastern Cape. En Route we stopped at a farm stall in the middle of nowhere just off the N10. I just love finding these hidden gems and Daggaboer Padstal was indeed unique. We were greeted at the door by our hostess who offered us a thimble of ginger beer or lemonade to taste. I had the ginger beer and The Earl the lemonade and both were delicious – homemade of course. Inside was a feast for the eyes and there were a variety of goodies from rusks to crafts for sale
Breakfast was a wholesome fried egg, bacon, boerewors and tomato served with roostekoek of course. The coffee would do any Boer (farmer) proud! It was percolated and had to be poured through a sieve. For my non-South African readers – roosterkoek is a ball of bread dough cooked on a grid over hot coals. It is often served with a braai/BBQ but is also often served in restaurants as an alternative toast.
An interesting Padstal (Farm Stall)
A wholesome Boere Breakfast – I declined the roosterkoek
Our three days at Mountain Zebra were lovely. This park was established in 1937 with the prime focus being to protect the endangered Mountain Zebras. Many of the other parks both Sanparks and private obtained their mountain zebras from this park. Mountain Zebra Park is also the most significant contributor of The Cheetah Metapopulation Project and many of their cheetahs have been relocated to other parks in the country.
We did not see any cats during our stay in the park but what we really enjoyed was the magnificent scenery in this mountainous reserve. The first day was hot but after that we enjoyed sunny but very cold days! Early mornings and nights were down to 5 degrees C!
Camp on Day 1 – Nice and warm
Note the mountain zebra
A tree growing out of rock – HOW?
Dry but beautiful
The roads were very steep in some parts
At a lookout point – The Earl took a picture of me taking a picture of him
My picture of him taking a picture of me taking a picture of him
On Thursday we drove the most hectic of the 4X4 trails. We only read the description later – “Umgeni is the most challenging of the 4X4 trails -It can either provide a lot of excitement or induce premature aging!” It did both for us! At one point The Earl had to get out of the car to remove a particularly large rock from the road! His choice was to risk being eaten by a predator or destroying his car! Luckily there wasn’t an animal in sight.
During our three day stay, we enjoyed seeing a variety of game and birds.
Brown-hooded kingfisher
Acacia Pied Barbet
Gemsbok (Oryx)
Kudu female – Saw lots of males too
Familiar Chat
Cape Rock Thrush
Ground Squirrel
Double-banded courser
Vervet Monkey
Black Wildebeest – different to the Blue Wildebeest seen in Kruger and other parks – Note the white tails
Red-billed ox-peckers giving an Eland a spa treatment
Eland
Pale-chanting Goshawk – only raptor we saw
Mountain Zebra
Dark-capped bulbul
A herd of Black wildebeest (Gnus)
Large-billed lark
Our national animal – Springbok
Spike-heeled Lark
Scaly-feathered finch
Golden-breasted bunting
Southern Boubou inviting himself into the caravan
Then asking The Earl for a snack
This naughty monkey stole an egg from my box and then went to wash in the puddle next to the caravan! One has to be constantly on guard when camping in the wild!
Our most exciting experience was spotting three rhinos while on a lonely drive and no other cars were there to share the sighting with us.
Black Rhino
Mom and baby
A little while later we were also the only car to see a fourth rhino on his own. When he caught sight of us he made a mock charge and then thought we weren’t worth the effort and ran off into the bush.
We had great plans for a long road trip in the second half of this year but a few things caused us to change our minds. Our big trip of the year was the cruise from Mauritius to Venice and we have also done a few short caravan trips. We have had some family events to attend and our little home in Struisbaai needed some attention so we decided to just do a short trip before we have to start thinking of the Christmas Season.
We packed up the Gecko Xtreme Off-Road caravan and left Struisbaai on Thursday 5 September then spent the weekend with our sister-in-law at Great Brak River. She was celebrating her 60th birthday and there was a bit of a family reunion there. Diane and Carey live on a small farm and some of us camped in the garden! It was awesome fun.
On Sunday we headed to Addo Elephant Park – our third trip there this year! It was not as exciting as last time but very enjoyable nevertheless. We only managed to get two nights when I booked and we planned to spend a third night at a private camp outside the park. I asked if there were any cancellations when we checked in but no luck. However, the next day I asked again – and there was a vacancy so we got our three nights saving us an extra pack-up day.
The weather was awesome – very hot on Sunday and Monday then cooler morning and evening on Tuesday but still shorts and t-shirt temperatures during the day.
Tiny baby enjoying the mud
Protected by his elders
This is so refreshing
I’m just gonna sit here and enjoy the waters
The warthogs seem to have no fear of the giants above them
AAAH a lovely trough of cool, fresh water.
Early on our second morning, we came across this strange looking goose!
It looks like a shelduck
Then we saw a more familiar-looking one a little further away.
Mr. Shelduck
And soon we also saw his wife
Mrs. Shelduck
So the odd creature must have been their youngster not yet in his full adult plumage.
A better photo of Mom.
Usually, we see them near water but they must have been out foraging.
It is hot and dry in The Park at the moment and even the birds were scarce. We did, however, manage to see and photograph a few
Streaky-headed seedeater
Bokmakierie
Common Fiscal
Ant-eating chat
Pale-chanting Goshawk on prey
The guts are delicious!
Southern Boubou
Hoepoe
Emerald-spotted wood-dove
Cape Glossy Starling
Jackal Buzzard
Karoo Scrub-robin
One doesn’t often see suricates so it was really rewarding to find some so close to the road
This lot greeted us in a friendly manner
What was he thinking!
The rest of the gang dug furiously for breakfast
Perhaps because of the heat, the animals were hiding in the bushes and trees. We usually see herds of them on the open plains. This time they were more scattered.
Zebra eating the dry grass
A lone red hartebeest
Male Kudu trying to get some juicy leaves
There were not many buffalo around but this one got a beauty treatment from a crow! The crow tried to impersonate an ox-pecker but didn’t quite have the skills. He jumped up and pecked at the long-suffering buff and managed to get a tick or three.
I see some parasites annoying you – shall I get them off?
Be my guest – I haven’t had a spa treatment in ages
oooh – that’s better!
These jackals were hiding from a kudu who was trying to trample them!
Other tourists reported seeing lions at various places in the park but we only saw one female about to take a nap.
We left Addo this morning and made our way to Mountain Zebra National Park near Craddock. More about that in my next post.
The Southern Tip of Africa is a great pace to be during the summertime and when the winter days are warm and sunny. But when the North West Wind blows and the rains come down it can be extremely chilly! Such a cold spell hit us earlier this month so on 4 July we hitched up the caravan and went in search of warmer spots!
One of my favourite break-away spots is Warmwaterberg – situated on the R62 between Barrydale and Ladysmith and in spite of it being school holidays we were able to get a site for three nights. Not only were the warm spring waters soothing to the soul but the days were warm and sunny and we enjoyed some lovely walks and bird watching too.
The Stark Beauty of The Karoo
Popping up from the dry earth
A Thornbush full of Mousebirds
White-throated Canary
From there we went to The Rural Family in Plettenberg Bay where we spent a delightful weekend. Other relatives were visiting from Kokstad so it was lovely catching up with them too.
Our granddaughter, Shan, was having an adventure of her own. A young man had invited her to his matric dance in East London. This necessitated his parents collecting her from Plett, having her stay with them for a few days in Queenstown and then taking the young couple to the event that weekend. Afterward, they would need to bring her back. Quite a mission but this is what it takes when you live in the back of beyond! To save them some of the distance we offered to meet them in Colesberg – midway between Queenstown and Plett and then take Shan and Simon with us to Addo Elephant Park. It all worked out perfectly.
We spent three days in the park with the kids, enjoyed brilliant weather and had wonderful sightings. We were last in Addo with these two in January and as luck would have it we got the exact same caravan site this time too.
The kids and I took control of the three cameras in the car and had great fun recording our experiences.
First creatures seen – elephants of course!
Cape Glossy Starling
A wonderful Male Kudu
Iconic in Addo – The Bokmakierie
Black-headed Heron
Not seen often enough – Meerkats catching the rays
Male ostrich – very relaxed
Too close for comfort for Shan
Red-faced Mousebird
No lions about – so resting up till the next chase!
Even the tiny creatures get our attention
Burchell’s Coucal
It was a hard night – Oupa needs his rest
The Three Little Pigs still hanging with Mom!
Cape Weaver
Another of the many Kudu seen
Jackal Buzzard
Cape Long-claw
Precious
The Ellies were at the Zebra’s waterhole and wouldn’t let them in!
Cheeky tried to scare them off
So Sweet!
Making for the waterhole
On our last day – we found Jack and Jill
Jack
Jill
The Red Hartebeest are wary
So are the zebra – one negotiating with a hyaena who also pitched up on the scene
Today is my birthday and just being here in the bush is the best gift I could ask for. However, I make a short list of what I would like to see today and at the top is Cheetah! The Kgalagadi usually shows us wonderful cheetah sightings but this time we’ve seen only a single sleepy one under a tree! I really want the Mools to see them at their glorious best. Pat even put in a request when saying Grace last night. Will her prayer receive a positive answer???
The Mools greet me with a big happy birthday and a gift of a new Kgalagadi Map Book! – It will be much treasured!
First up and always amazing to see is The Martial Eagle – then a den of the cutest Cape Foxes.
Enjoying the early morning sunShould I come out of my hole?Isn’t she the cutest!
Then we watch two springbok locking horns in a friendly battle of strength
These two entertained us when they decided to lock horns and tussle
We find the wild cat at the same spot as yesterday and point her out to others who stop to ask what we’re staring at. We manage to get good shots of her and the kitten
There are no lion at Kij Kij today but we stop for coffee and to watch the sandgrouse, sparrows, quelea and finches flying from trees to water hole – always fascinating.
And a jackal comes down to drink
From there we drive to Melkvlei where The Earl cooks us a delicious birthday breakfast on the Skottel.
Pat poured some water in a plastic lid and the birds drank thirstily
After breakfast we take the Dune Road.
Korhaans love this habitatTypical Kgalagadi Dune
Once on the Mata Mata Road we stop to see birds and animals. We find Ostriches. The babies are having a delightful sand bath.
Then it all happens. Between Rooibrak and Kamqua bore holes, lying lazily under a tree we find two young cheetah! My birthday wish comes true! Patricia’s prayer is answered.
Happy Birthday, HelenWe were expecting you!Is that a springbok I spy?Let’s go get him! Come on – before he sees us!
We thoroughly enjoy a birthday treat of note! The cheetah interact with each other then they spot a springbok and get up and go for the chase – but they’re spotted and lose their lunch. We think they’ll go off somewhere else now –but no, they return to the same tree, giving us more wonderful views of their beautiful selves. I am in heaven!
Oh well – maybe next time – let’s go back to the shadeStop sniffing – Keep up! Okay – I’m coming!
There are only two other cars and we have nobody blocking our view – just awesome.
Thank you for being a friendGoodbye, Cheetahs – You made my day!
It’s a long way back to Twee Rivieren and we’re on a high all the way home. We stop to enjoy other creatures but the Cheetah are definitely the highlight. A wonderful way to end an amazing month’s trip! Tomorrow we start making our way home!
The mornings are just cool enough to pack up in comfort. The Earl and I were off by quarter to seven. The Mools followed a little later as they still had to fuel. The plan was to meet at Kamqua for breakfast.
The sightings were slow all day today but The Earl and I did see sleeping lions and the Mools got them awake!
We arrived at Kamqua and opened up the caravan kitchen to prepare breakfast. Earl said – I’ll just prepare everything and start the cooking when the Mools arrive. Well he’d just completed the prep when they arrived. It was quarter past ten. Perfect timing.
The drive to Nossob from Mata Mata is over 100 km. It was a slow day as far as sightings were concerned. Our most interesting sighting was a little jackal at a waterhole we could see from the road.
Below are some photos of animals and birds we did see.
Necking giraffeThirsty Wildebeest Lanner Falcon
It was 43 degrees when we arrived at Nossob at around 1 pm. Nossob means blackwater, black lung – soft and even flow. The northern reaches of the river are wide and flat making it difficult to see where the actual course runs.
We parked the caravan and pushed up the roof but left the canopy till later. I washed up the breakfast things in the camp kitchen and washed out all my dish towels. Then I sat in the air conditioned caravan and edited photographs while the Earl napped.
When the Mools arrived we finished setting up and then all went to the pool for a swim. I was delighted to get a good photo of a violet cheeked waxbill at the gate.
Lots of these were flitting about near the gate to the poolNo better way to get cool – a wonderful splash in the pool!Swallow-tailed bee-eaters sat on the shady fence and watched us wallow in the water
18 November 2018
Nossob to Polentswa and back
We made an early start this morning, getting our exit permit at 20 to 6. The first water hole we stopped at was Cubitje Quap. The meaning of this name is Aardvark Burrow but I’ve never seen any aardvarks there!
This is a good spot to watch birds of prey trying to catch birds. There were hundreds of doves, quelea and finches in the trees. They swarmed down in twittering clouds to drink at the waterhole. At the approach of the prey-bird they explode into the air and back into the trees.
Cubitje Quap – early in the morning Tree full of birdsA lanner tried to catch some birds while this immature Pale Chanting looked on
There are several waterholes along the corrugated way to Polentswa. We stopped at Kwang where the water is of good quality. The meaning of Kwang is unknown but it is a site where Piet de Villiers, the Inspector of Lands, camped regularly. He was instrumental in having the area declared a national park. We had rewarding sightings of secretary birds as well as a red-necked falcon that landed on the ground near the waterhole. This bird is easy to confuse with the lanner. The diagnostic feature is that its whole crown is red and the feathered part of the legs are striped, not plain.
Red-necked Falcon
At Polentswa we sat having our breakfast while observing wildebeest and birds at the waterhole. Polentswa means ‘losing the way, or rogue river.
On our return we saw vultures at some of the waterholes the last being Bedinkt which means sour grass.
Lappet-faced Vulture
It is also interesting to pay attention to the small creatures of the park. Aren’t these ground agamas fascinating. Although they are called ground agama, they do like to hang about in thorn trees. The male’s head turns blue in the breeding season.
I am retired in Struisbaai, Western Cape South Africa. My hubby and I love to travel and regularly visit wildlife reserves throughout South Africa. We love sharing our experiences with others.