It was 10 degrees C when we left camp at 07h50 this morning but it was not long before we stripped off our fleeces and it was only necessary to put them back on after 19h00. Another wonderful day in Africa.

Today we travelled the S50 and explored all the loops along the river and visited two hides.  Sightings were few and far between. We saw waterbuck, giraffe, zebra, impala and of course lots of elephants who as usual hogged the road and only moved off when they felt like it. I’m sure they do this on purpose just to show who is boss.

But it wasn’t only elephants that caused us angst. Impulsive impala do not have very good road sense and often leap out from the bush to cross a road before you’re aware that this was their plan. This morning an impala ram caused Earl to slam on breaks to avoid hitting him. We were of course driving very slowly as is the rule in the park. Just before that one of the Sanparks trucks with labourers on the back had rattled past us at great speed. I dread to think what would have happened had they needed to stop suddenly for an errant animal.

I have posted photos of the highlights and then below I have given information about the Shingwedzi facilities.

Shingwedzi Facilities

The caravan park is big.  Some sites are very shady while others do not offer much shade.  We paid extra for a perimeter site and were lucky that number 14 was available and had shade almost the whole day.

There is a monkey and baboon problem here but it was not as bad as Punda Maria.  A general rule to follow in every camp is never to leave caravan and car doors open even if you are right there.  Never leave food unattended.  Close up everything when you leave your site and make sure your food is securely locked away.  Leaving food in tents is not advisable.   Get a lockable cooler box.  

Like all the main camps, Shingwedzi has a shop and a restaurant. The shop does not have the variety of your local supermarket but most essentials are available and you can easily replenish your stocks without having to leave the park to go shopping. If you’ve forgotten to bring a torch, cooking pot, a bird guide, memory card for your camera or anything else, you could probably find your required item at the shop. If you don’t feel like cooking, you will be able to get a good meal at the restaurant at a reasonable cost.

Our caravans are well equipped for cooking and washing up so we don’t always use the camp kitchens but here at Shingwedzi they provide adequate basins, gas stoves and boiling water on tap. They are kept clean by the staff but sometimes other campers don’t clean up properly after themselves.

There are two ablution blocks.   The main one has a laundry between the men’s and women’s section.   The other is more central but over the road from the campsite, on the reception side.  There are positive and negatives regarding these facilities.

Positives

• The staff keep them spotlessly clean.
• Adequate hot water
• No broken tiles
• Doors closed properly and locked
• The main one provided a section with mirrors and plugs for hair drying and space for putting on make-up.
• The main one had enough space in each cubicle
• There were three shower cubicles on the second one and only could you open the door without stepping into the shower space.

Negatives

• Plastic shower curtains
• Shower Cubicles in most are too small
• Paper towel not replaced often enough.
• No disinfectant spray provided to clean basins etc Come on Sanparks – COVID!

We are visiting the park for 38 days so having laundry facilities is important.  What I love about coming to Kruger is that they have laundrettes with coin operated machines.  At Shingwedzi there are two washing machines and two dryers. Only one washing machine is working. The other sports an out of order notice dated 21 June 2021. The washing machine takes two R5 coins for a 45 minute cycle. One of the dryers also takes two R5 coins but the other takes five R2 coins. Tokens throughout the park would be a better option. Dream on!

There is a swimming pool which we did not use but I went to take a look and it was sparkling.

In spite of maintenance problems and poor management in some areas, Kruger National Park is still a great place to visit.    Just be prepared that things won’t be perfect and come prepared.  Bring you own sanitising sprays, spare paper towel and/or wiping cloths.   Most campers try to leave the facilities clean and neat after using them but there are always those who think somebody else is going to come along and clean up after them.

Tomorrow is moving day. We are looking forward to spending five nights at rustic camp Tzendze.

We enjoyed another beautiful warm day in the Kruger National park today. At 7 o’clock when we awoke it was 12 degrees C and by the time left for our game drive just after 8 it had risen to 19 and continued to climb until a maximum of 30 degrees C. Sitting outdoors in the evenings is also very pleasant and we have not even needed fleeces before 8 pm.

This morning we travelled the H1-7, S56 and S57 with S56 being the most productive for birds. We travelled in tandem with Cathy and Alec and kept in touch with walkie talkies which have a range of about three kilometres.

Our first adventure began early on the H1-7

Our route took us along the S56 which was good for birds and mamals.

There is an African proverb that goes, “If vultures surround you try not to die!” It seems horrible that vultures eat dead things but in nature they are invaluable because they help control disease spreading by eating creatures that have died. They are nature’s rubbish disposers. There were lots around this morning but we did not find any dead bodies.

The river is mostly dry with ponds of water in places. It was lovely to see a line of zebra using it as a road to wherever they were going.

As we returned on the road next to the river we saw two hippos enjoy what water there was.

We spent the heat of the day in camp and after a lunch of tuna mayonnaise salad, went out again at quarter past three. We wanted to make sure we got back well before the six o’clock gate closing time. So we took the S52 to Red Rocks and then turned around at half past four without actually finding the lookout! We’d missed the loop and by the time we realised our mistake we were in a hurry to get back to camp. But we enjoyed the creatures we met on the way there and back.

We haven’t seen all that many wildebeest and until today I have not taken a decent photograph of one. Today this guy obliged and sends his regards to my friend, Erich in Australia.

For dinner we had delicious beef kebabs, baked potato and salad. Cathy treated us to jelly infused with fruit and served with custard for dessert – just delicious.

Thank you all for following and a special thanks to the Gecko Group who have posted such kind comments on our WhatsApp group.

We were sad to bid farewell to Punda Maria this morning but packing up and hitching the caravan with the help of our new caravan movers was a pleasure.

When we move from camp to camp in a game reserve we stick to the tar roads and try to get to our destination with as little stopping as possible. Caravans at sightings are not a pretty thing. But Murphy was at work with his law again and today was the day that we needed to stop several times for some really lovely sightings.

As we turned onto the H1-7 we saw a huge herd of buffalo. They were a bit far off heading toward us so we waved and moved on. Cathy and Alec were a few minutes behind us but we found out later that they had seen them too.

The Earl will only stop if he doesn’t have to maneuver into a good position. Stopping for birdds is usually not a problem.

At ten past nine, we noticed a few cars stopped up ahead. We pulled up behind a jeep jockey. The guide was alone and taking photographs of something. Then I saw that partially hidden by bush were two lions on a kill, presumably a buffalo. After a few minutes we discovered there were three feasting and a fourth was lying under a nearby bush.

The Earl tried to get Cathy on the radio and after the third try she responded. He passed the three parked cars ahead of us and they slipped into our spot. We were able to see a bit more before moving on so as not to block the road for other cars arriving on the scene.

Next up were zebra and the cutest little foal stole our hearts.

It’s a 70km drive from Punda to Shingwedzi but with the speed limit being 50km per hour and actually going a lot slower than that and stopping from time to time, it takes a lot longer. So it was already ten to ten when we stopped at Babalala Picnic Site for a loo break. This is an unfenced site and has a caretaker making sure that everything is safe and kept in a pristine condition. We find that these rustic sites are far nicer than the busier fenced ones in the south. The ablutions were spotless and although we didn’t stay to have a snack we know from past experience that you can get boiling water from a pot that the caretaker keeps going on a gas stove, you can hire a skottel to cook breakfast and there is also a washup facility.

The next bird we stopped for had us confused at first. We were hoping for a Martial Eagle but it was something way smaller.

At Boyela Waterhole we found a mix of browsers and grazers – wildebeest, zebra and giraffe.

Cathy and Alec were in the lead and called us on the hand held radios. What a great surprise. They’d spotted two cheetah hiding in the grass and keeping a close eye on the the game. We could see them clearly but they did not face us and so most of our shots are of the backs of cheetahs! Cathy got the best one which I’m sharing here.

You do not want to meet up with elephants when towing a caravan but when they’re a fair distance away then it’s perfectly okay. We watched with joy as a herd came marching down an embankment and then began digging holes in the dry river bed and giving themselves a dust bath. The babies are the most adorable creatures.

Finally we arrived at Shingwedzi, checked in at reception and then went in search of a good camping site.

To get a perimeter site at Shingwedzi you have to pay a little extra. You are not given a particular number but can choose any one of the 26 sites available. At first we were devastated to see how many were already taken and thought we might have to settle for one without shade but luck was on our side and we have the best, shadiest site you could ever wish for. This afternoon we observed an elephant wander past and as we sat round the braai fire a hyaena patrolled the fence.

As I wrote this blog I heard a scops owl calling and various other wild sounds including the distant roar of a lion. I couldn’t wish to be in a more amazing place.

My day started well with a bird that I was hoping to see here at Punda. As I was sipping my morning coffee I spotted some crested guineafowl making their way across the campsite. I grabbed my camera and followed them until they started foraging in the leaf litter under some trees on the other side of camp.

Scattered showers were predicted for today and the morning skies were indeed very overcast. There was a spit and a spot before we left camp and a bit enroute but by 10 am it was fine and sunny.

Today we travelled in tandem with Cathy and Alec as we all wanted to visit Crook’s Corner and then have breakfast at Pafuri Picnic Site. This part of the park is really beautiful. The first part of the trip takes you through plains of mopane shrub and then to the Luvuvhu catchment area when the mopane disappears and is soon replaced with the most majestic trees and palms.

At the beginning of our trip we saw very few animals but just enjoyed the scenery. At Klopperfontein we found a few Egyptian geese and lots of Marabou Storks enjoying the water. Thanks to Cathy for the photographs.

Half an hour later we came upon a traffic jam and wondered if a leopard had been spotted. Well not a leopard but a leopard tortoise was in the middle of the road drinking from a puddle from a recent shower. Thanks to Alec for the photograph.

As we neared Crook’s corner and the vegetation changed we began to see lots of nyala, impala, zebra and kudu and of course elephant.

Finally we arrived at Crook’s Corner, a triangle of land where Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique meet.

One hundred years ago, Crook’s Corner was a No Man’s Land and a haven for law breakers such as ivory poachers and gun runners amongst others. In the corner there was a beacon that marked where the three countries met – in those days Mozambique was called Portuguese East Africa and Zimbabwe was called Southern Rhodesia. The ‘crook’ if the law caught up with him would hop over the beacon to the side that was not the jurisdiction of the cop who was after him. If all three country’s lawmen were there at the same time they would fight over who would get to take the wrong-doer prisoner and of course he would be laughing his head off as he hopped from one side to another.

Today there were no crooks there but there were a number of crocodiles who are equally as scary.

We also heard and saw a fish eagle fly overhead and a giant kingfisher made a brief appearance.

From Crook’s corner we made our way to Pafuri Picnic site. It was after 10 o’clock and we were starving having only had coffee and a rusk before we left camp. We were really looking forward to Cathy’s scrambled eggs and bacon. But uh oh – our way was blocked as is shown by Cath’s photographs.

We had to turn around and take a different route. Alec was behind us and reversed and then called us on the two-way radio to pull in next to him which the Earl did and then took the lead. Well to our horror, a short way along the road another gang were determined to keep us hungry a little longer! They were on both sides of the road and just kept blocking the way. After a while the Earl managed to slip past but the gap was blocked again and Alec couldn’t follow for several more minutes. Finally, the ellies gave way and we continued only to be blocked by first, impala darting across in front of us and then helmeted guineafowl deciding to forget their road safety rules.

It was almost midday when we finally arrived at beautiful Pafuri. We found a table overlooking the river, Cathy and Alec set up their cooker and soon we were enjoying a delicious breakfast in the most beautiful setting in the world.

While my companions enjoyed the view I did a spot of birding. There were many to see but photography was difficult. After half and hour I needed a chiropractor to adjust my stiff neck!

The attendant saw me looking into a tree and called me over and told me where to find the black-throated wattle-eye. This bird has a very limited range in South Africa.

It was almost two o’clock when we left Pafuri. Cathy and Alec took the lead while Earl and I followed slowly behind stopping for every little bird of course. Cathy saw a lovely African Hawk-Eagle and is allowing me to post her photograph.

Earl and I were pleased to find a bateleur.

Posted below are some of the other birds that we saw during our drive.

We also watched these cute tree squirrels frolicking in a tree.

We arrived back at Punda Maria at about quarter past four and Alec alerted me to a flock of marabou storks flying overhead.

Then an elephant trumpeted and splashed water at some nyala at the waterhole. They decided to leave.

Cathy and Alec were in charge of dinner this evening and we enjoyed their wonderful spaghetti bolognaise followed by pears and cream. We really do eat well in the park.

Tomorrow we leave beautiful Punda Maria and for the campers out there I would like to comment on what the facilities here are like.

There are two ablution blocks which when the camp is busy are not enough. They are also in need of an upgrade. Maintenance is a problem. Some of the shower tiles are broken which could cause someone to hurt him or herself. The toilet door in one of the men’s ablutions did not have a lock. Also there were not enough toilets.

Reception, shop and restaurant are in the same building. We were treated in a friendly manner when we checked in. Covid protocols are also in place. The shop is adequately stocked with basic groceries, books and clothes and souvenirs. The service at the restaurant is a little slow but the food is good. The staff are polite and friendly both in the restaurant and the shop.

There is a pool which looked okay but we did not make use of it.

The laundry has one washing machine and one dryer. Each operates with four R2 coins.

The camp kitchen is kept clean and neat by staff – but other campers sometimes don’t clean up after themselves. I bring my own wiping clothes and kitchen cleaner just in case. I usually end up cleaning before and after. There are plugs in the sinks but always bring your own as often these disappear.

Monkeys are a problem. There is someone who walks around with a catapult to chase them but other things need to be put in place to prevent the monkeys causing havoc. The bins are monkey and baboon proof but when the staff collect the rubbish they leave the bags out for the cart to load and the monkeys then get into them and make a mess

I don’t like to be negative but feel it is important to let potential campers know what to expect. After we had set up camp, another camper wanted to use one of the electrical outlets that has four points. Two were not working and of course Alec and Earl were already connected to the two that were. Within minutes Earl fixed them. The camper told Earl that maintenance men had come earlier but failed to do a very simple job. Earl reported this to the camp manager. It’s not the first time that Earl had done free maintenance for Sanparks!

In spite of these little niggles, Punda Maria is a wonderful place to stay. Just be prepared for less than five-star maintenance. The biggest plus is the waterhole.

Oh and one more thing – the ground is hard. Bring a drill.

Once again we had a beautiful warm sunny day today. To us, from the cold and wet Western Cape, it felt like summer. At 4 pm it was 30 degrees C and even after the sun had set we sat outdoors without jackets.

Our morning drive started at 8:15 and we were back at camp by 11:15.
Just outside camp on the H13-1 we saw quite a few female kudu and continued to see lots of kudu in large groups for the rest of the day.

The H13-1 was quite active with birds but we heard more than we could see and when we did see them they refused to settle quietly for a photo. I was, however, delighted to see a flock of white-crested helmet shrikes and one obliged by sitting still for a few seconds.

Everybody who follows my travel blogs knows I love giraffe. Today. several came out to say howdy.

At 9:20 we turned onto the Ndzuondzwini Loop. Soon we found a huge herd of kudu and impala and in the distance some waterbuck too. We sat and watched them drinking and browsing and grazing. Sometimes they would all stop and stand perfectly still all looking in the same direction. We think they were aware of a predator in the area. They could certainly sense something. After a while they relaxed and continued with their breakfast and entertained us with their activities.

While we watched the buck interacting we were unaware that a bull elephant had appeared on the scene. I happened to look to the left and there he was.

Eventually all the kudu and impala left the scene and disappeared into the bush. The elephant soon lumbered off too so we moved on but stopped when we spotted an interesting bird.

We continued to see the usual suspects – more giraffe, zebra and birds who refused to pose, before returning to camp. Cathy and Alec had also gone for a short drive and were back at the same time. The Earl cooked us some lovely scrambled eggs for breakfast and we only went out again at 3:30 pm.

These are the highlights of the afternoon drive.

Baobab trees lose their leaves in winter but Spring is just around the corner and so some are beginning to wake up for the summer.

The sun was just going down when we arrived back at camp and as we parked I noticed two men staring up into the tree under which the Gecko is set up. I asked what they’d seen and they said it could be a Gabar Goshawk. I could only locate it after a few minutes of their careful direction. “Perhaps it’s a Shikra,” I suggested and we checked my Roberts App. Indeed it was and they were delighted. Well, so was I! A shikra in my tree!

It was my turn to do dinner tonight so I brought out my trusty Remoska pot and made a chicken casserole with lots of veggies.

I was up before seven o’clock this morning and did not have to wrap up in hat and gloves to leave the caravan. The temperature started at 10 degrees C and kept rising to the mid-twenties. It was a still, sunny day with cloudless skies.

The Earl and I left before Cathy and Alec this morning as they were to meet up with a friend along the road and instead of waiting for them we decided to try to get to Punda as early as possible to try for a perimeter site.

The R525 to Pafuri Gate was in fairly good condition with just a few small potholes from time to time – easy to see and avoid. We passed through some bustling villages and dodged the cows, goats and donkeys along the route. It was lovely to see lots of baobab trees decorating the landscape too.

We arrived at Pafuri at ten to nine and received a friendly welcome from the gate attendant. We filled in a Covid Form and he took our temperatures before we checked in at the office. Here again the friendly receptionist welcomed us to The Park and processed us very efficiently.

What a joy to be back in the Kruger National Park. This year we are travelling from the northern-most part right down to the south. This is the first time that we have entered from Pafuri Gate.

From the gate we took the H1-9 and then the H1-8 to Punda Maria Rest Camp. The first creature to welcome us was a squirrel scampering across the road and then a zebra hiding amongst the trees. Neither were too keen to pose for a photograph. But it was not long before some other creatures were more obliging.

We arrived at Punda at 11:00 and unfortunately found all the perimeter sites taken. However, we found one further back which still had a view of the waterhole.

We set up quickly and about an hour later Alec and Cathy arrived. Once we were all settled and ready we went to reception to check in and to have some lunch. None of us had eaten all day and it was 2 pm by the time we sat down to lovely chicken wraps, chips and salad washed down with refreshing Grapetisers.

Before lunch I had spotted something at the waterhole and dashed to the hide with my camera.

Later in the afternoon the Earl and I did the Mahonie Loop. It was already after four o’clock and gate closing time was at six. This meant we could not stop at a sighting for too long for fear of getting in late!

We spotted the usual suspects and a few familiar birds none of whom were very photogenic. Then I heard squawking. “Stop,” I yelled and scanned a very green tree for very green parrots. We saw a whole flock of them flying and then I managed to get this contented chap nibbling something nutlike.

From five o’clock the light begins to fade and it becomes a bit cooler. The gravel road, however, remains warm and attracts creatures to lie upon it to soak up the heat.

Time was running out and the Earl did not want to make any more stops. But he had to when Jumbo took up half the road to drink from a puddle. He ran toward us and raised his trunk. It was scary but I think he was just being playful.

He then returned to his drinking and moved more to the side of the road. The Earl edged closer and then put his foot down and passed the elephant. He seemed annoyed but did not chase us!

We made it back to camp with 10 minutes to spare.

How lovely it was to have a warm, still evening for our braai. The Earl braaied some pork rashers for starters and then some chops and wors served with vegetable parcels prepared by Cathy. She precooked some mixed veggies and potato in the micro added some frozen green beans and butter and wrapped them in tinfoil to be finished off in the coals – absolutely delicious.

And now as I listen to the giggles of the hyaenas it is time to say good-night.

This morning started at a slightly warmer four degrees Celsius this morning and by 08h00 we’d had our warming coffee and were on the road for a rather long trek to Tshipise. We refuelled at Caltex at 8:30 and continued along the well maintained N1 double carriage way when at 08h45 the traffic suddenly came to a standstill. My Waze app informed me that traffic would creep on for the next 25 minutes but no explanation of what was causing the delay. We were stuck in the right lane with huge trucks beside us in the left. On coming traffic was light and flowing.

Eventually we arrived at the toll gate at 09h34 and could see that only one booth was open. Alec called on the radio, “They’re diverting us. We won’t be able to carry on along the N1!” And sure enough we were ushered through to the left and did not have to pay the toll. We have no idea why but presumed there was an accident up ahead. This meant we had to detour through Modi and then onto the R101 before rejoining the N1 at 10 o’clock. We saw a bashed truck cleared off the road a little further on and wondered if that was what the fuss was about. We heard later that there had been a three truck collision.

Our breakfast stop was at Caltex Starstop, The Ranch near Polokwane and it was really good. The road was good until Louis Trichardt and then it was a bit rough. To add injury to insult you have to go through a toll and pay R50 for a bad road and then immediately turn off onto the road to the resort.

On arrival at the Forever Resort we had to provide our IDs, registration numbers of the vehicles and caravans and each of us had to sign in. Before driving through the gate our temperatures were taken too. As it is term time we were expecting a quiet campsite but nothing could have been further from the truth! It was almost full to capacity but we finally managed to find two sites next to each other.

Tshipise is derived from Tshivenḓa “tshisima tsha u fhisa”, ‘hot spring’, referring to the mineral springs. One of the pools at the resort is filled with the spring water and there are also two indoor pools which are very hot and good for relieving arthritic and rheumatic aches and pains.

Tshipise Forever Resort is popular for retirees from the cooler south. They set themselves up here for the winter months to escape the cold of their southerly homes. They’re known as “Swaelties,” the Afrikaans word for swallows. There were also lots of young families with children probably taking a weekend break. The facilities are excellent and there are big pools and other things to entertain the kids.

The ablutions are pristine, there is a well-stocked shop, a laundromat with several washing machines and dryers and a good restaurant. I took the opportunity of doing a load of washing at R40 for both the washing and the drying.

We also had supper at the restaurant in the evening and the food was excellent. Cathy and Alec had chicken schnitzel the Earl had lamb stew and I had a grilled chicken. We also ordered two portions of veg and 2 baked potatoes to share.

The weather is considerably warmer now that we’ve crossed the tropic of Capricorn. Evenings are cool but not freezing and it was warm enough this afternoon to wear short sleeves.

After today’s drama we are all relieved that this is our last overnight stop before entering the park tomorrow. It is only a 90km drive to Pafuri Gate and we can’t wait to finally start our Kruger Safari!

Most of our route was on the double carriage ways of the N1 which meant that passing the lumbering trucks was a lot less stressful.   Cathy was our able navigator and Alec lead us brilliantly through the awful traffic of Johannesburg.   But  the journey was not too long today and we only made two stops for loo breaks. 

How lovely it was to wake up in a lovely warm bedroom this morning.   Outside the brave sun shone but it was minus three degrees Celsius at seven o’clock and once again the temperature took its time to rise to 20 before dropping drastically after four o’clock.   Breakfast was included in our rate so at eight o’clock we enjoyed  lovely bacon and eggs and lots of good coffee and only left Arcadia Guest House at nine o’clock.

Bela-Bela is the Tswana word meaning ‘the pot that boils’ and was named thus when the tribe discovered the hot springs in the 1800s.  A Voortrekker named Carl van Heerden had the first farm in the district.  He named it “Hartingburg”  in honour of a Dutch biologist named Pieter Harting.   Later  President Burger’s Transvaal government bought the land and  they named the area ‘Het Bat’.  During the Anglo Boer War the British took over the town and in 1903 named it Warm Baths.  In 2002 it was re-named Bela-Bela. The main hot springs holiday resort in the town is still branded Warmbaths.

We are not staying at  Warmbaths Resort but at Mbizi Game Lodge which is lush with green grass and trees.   There are lots of ancient implements dotted about the grounds and at reception we were amused to see old kettles used as lampshades. 

We each have a campsite with private ablutions. The campsites are small and not the best in this caravan park. I would suggest rather getting the ones with communal ablutions which are just as pristine and perhaps even more spacious. There are benches in the shower rooms and hooks for hanging your clothes

Mbizi is not a place I would choose to come to during school holidays. It is a typical holiday camp with wonderful facilities for families and children. At times like these I imagine it would be quite noisy. So unless you love the sound of children indulging in excited play, come when they’re all at school.

The campsite not only attracts holiday makers but birds and beasts too.

The camp restaurant is open all day until 20h00. You have to choose from an illustrated board, order and pay cash at the bar and your meal is served in take-away-containers with plastic cutlery. However, there is seating and you may sit in or outdoors. Music was playing throughout the afternoon and was quite loud. We asked for it to be turned down and they kindly switched the speakers off in the indoor restaurant. The Earl and I had chicken wraps and Cathy and Alec had cheese burgers. We also had a Greek salad to share. We wanted to order a bottle of wine but they only had one off the shelf. However, they allowed us to fetch our own and did not charge corkage. Unless you want fine dining, I can really recommend eating at this place.

Tomorrow we travel to our last destination, Tshipise, before we enter Kruger National Park on Sunday.

At seven o’clock this morning the mercury dropped to minus one degree Celsius. Now, I am a morning person, but today it was cold enough for hell to freeze over, so under the duvet I remained! But I couldn’t stay there forever and after the Earl go up I quickly dressed in my warmest jeans and jersey and emerged to greet the day.

It looked like it should be warm outdoors and the bright sun was trying desperately to send its warming rays down to Earth. By midday she succeeded in only slightly warming the air to 14 degrees C. Of course as soon as the sun went down so did the temperature.

At half past eight we bade farewell to our campsite and the beautiful Modder River, filled up with fuel at Engen and continued onto the N8 towards Bloemfontein. Then we took the N1 toward Kroonstad. It was 10:55 when we stopped at Caltex Fresh Stop only to find that the Fantini Restaurant had burned down and we could not have brunch there so we went back 5km to the Shell Ultra City and enjoyed a good meal there.

Up until now we have had little traffic on the roads we have travelled but today the number of trucks increased and caused angst to our drivers. The roads were in reasonable condition but how long is this going to last with heavy vehicles like these using them. Surely rail transportation of heavy goods makes more sense.

No suitable caravan park was available in Kroonstad where we are stopping over tonight. Instead Cathy booked us into Arcadia Guest Lodge. We love our cosy caravans but a little bit of a spoil in luxury accommodation is not to be sneezed at.

The distance from Bredasdorp to Pafuri Gate, where we intend entering The Kruger National Park is over 2000 km. Planning a safe route, and finding good caravan parks is a lot of work and Cathy is the one to have done it for this trip. She has also compiled a comprehensive list of caravan parks in Southern Africa for our Gecko Caravan owners. All the parks we are visiting on this trip are on this list. Members should please give feedback about the camps they visit and also let Cathy know about any others that could be added so that the list can be kept current.

There is a caravan park in Kroonstad that Cathy and Alec have visited and enjoyed in the past but unfortunately it now has a reputation for being unsafe. We passed it today and it was empty. We have heard that work is being done to upgrade it and to improve security.

Below are some photos of the lovely Arcadia Guest Lodge.

Cathy and Alec took the opportunity of being in Kroonstad to catch up with life-long friends of theirs who live here. We all met at Spur for dinner and then had coffee back at their home. It was an awesome evening.

Tomorrow we make our way to Mbizi Game Lodge and Spa – Bela Bela.

Stay warm and stay safe.

This morning I woke to silence and chill.  The wind had died down to nothing but the temperature had plummeted to 2 degrees C!   It was insanely cold!  Donned in hat and gloves I emerged from my caravan to find Alec wearing shorts!  To be fair, he did have on a fleece and was boiling the kettle for good welcome cups of  hot  coffee for us all.

It did not take long to be packed up and ready and by 08h30 we were on the road.   The N12 to Kimberley is in excellent condition and the traffic was minimal. 

At Three Sisters we turned left into the Northern Cape and the vegetation soon changed from  scrubby bush to scattered trees.  

It was 11:30 when we arrived at Britstown and after refuelling we dropped in at The Old Mill Coffee Shop for brunch.  We’d discovered this quaint little place on our way to Mountain Zebra National Park in March and were delighted that they were still there in spite of the effects that Covid has had on the restaurant and tourist industry.

We were pleasantly surprised to have very few trucks on the road as we travelled the N12.   We arrived at Riverside Lodge in Ritchie, 40 km from Kimberley at 3 pm. By then the temperature had risen to 22 degrees C.  The Lodge is right on the Modder  River and has lovely facilities.  The showers are spacious and have enough hooks and a bench outside each one.

After setting up camp I took a walk  and to my great joy saw a fish eagle dive feet first onto the surface of the water and come up with a huge fish. He then took the poor creature up into a tree – not a great photo but wow – what a lovely thing to see.

My travelling companions missed the scene but came for a stroll a little later on.

At this time of the year the mornings are really chilly but for a few hours it warms up to the early 20s. But once the sun goes down the chill returns. We are expecting another very cold morning tomorrow but right now we’re snug in our caravans.

Good night to you all and thanks for following.