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Gecko 109 on Safari – Final Episode -Wildlife Encounters at Kruger: Elephants and More by Guest Blogger, Cathy.

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Solar Struggles and Starry Nights: Tsendze and Beyond

As I mentioned in our last post, our departure for Tsendze was delayed by a bit of roadside camaraderie. Waldo and Desiré, fellow campers, had car trouble, and Alec offered to help. After a trip to Phalaborwa and some mechanical magic, the comforting roar of Waldo’s engine signalled success. We packed up, said a warm farewell to our new friends, and finally hit the road.

The drive to Tsendze was lovely—clear skies and a gentle warmth that would later climb to a blistering 37°C. We stopped at Mopani Camp to check in, where the ever-friendly ladies at reception greeted us with their usual friendly faces. Tsendze is one of the few Kruger camps where sites are allocated, so after receiving our spot, we drove the eight or so kilometres back to the entrance.

The gates at Tsendze are a bit of a landmark, and as always, Alec did a quick scan of the bush to ensure I wouldn’t become a widow before opening them. We found campsite #5 and were thrilled to see a large tree offering generous shade—much needed, as the heat had become oppressive and there’s no electricity at Tsendze. Our aircon was out of the question, so we relied solely on our 12V system to keep the fridge and lights going.

Once the van was set up and the solar panels laid out to catch what sun they could, we returned to Mopani for a lazy lunch on the deck overlooking Pioneer Dam. The elephants were having a glorious pool party—splashing, playing, and generally making us wish we could join them.

An Elephant Pool Party at Pioneer dam

Back at camp, the afternoon drifted by as we enjoyed the birds and squirrels in the surrounding bush. As evening fell and the heat softened, we settled in with our customary drinks and opted for a simple sandwich supper, still full from lunch and not quite ready to brave the stove.

As tradition goes, Roger popped by to welcome us. He’s a fixture at Tsendze — knowledgeable, kind, and always ready with a story. He apologized for the foot traffic near our site; a nest of barn owls had drawn curious children from across the camp. Roger’s passion for and knowledge of the birds and animals of the area is encyclopaedic, especially when it comes to owls. It’s always a pleasure chatting with him.

Kruger’s bird life felt like a living field guide. We enjoyed watching them in camp and on our drives. There were many different species but there are a few that are our favourites.

A majestic martial eagle

Marabou Storks were at the end of the line when looks were handed out

A Pale Chanting Goshawk peers out

Mocking Cliff Chat poses beautifully

Ford Tailed Drongos were everywhere

A Kurrichane Thrush looks for supper

Egrets and a Cormorant look for supper

Alec’s favourite Bird – Yellow Billed Hornbill

Burchells Coucal dozes in the sun

Crested Francolin are accomplished beggars

Gorgeous Tawny Eagle

Bennet’s Woodpecker

Southern Ground Hornbills

Beautiful mature Bataleur

White fronted Bee Eater waiting for prey

Busy Magpie Shrike

African Jacana forages in the shallows

After a refreshing shower, we turned in early, eager to explore the area the next day. But morning greeted us with thick cloud cover — a camper’s nemesis when relying on solar power. Our panels, usually reliable in partial sun, couldn’t keep up under the heavy skies. With our battery struggling, we made another trip to Mopani to see if we could swap our booking for a powered site at Letaba. The receptionist worked her magic and found us a place one night, which was better than nothing, especially with school holidays filling up the camps.

We packed up and headed back to Letaba, grateful for the reprieve and already making mental notes about upgrading our electrical setup. Lithium batteries? Better panels? A puzzle for another day.

Letaba welcomed us with a lovely site, and we spent the afternoon revisiting some of our favourite spots—the bridge over the river, Engelhart Dam, and the loops off the Phalaborwa Road. Kruger, as always, delivered. One of my favourite sightings was a line of elephant bulls marching out of the bush to drink at a reservoir—majestic and utterly grounding.

On a blazing day these zebra needed a drink

Buffalo also drinking at the same waterhole

An unusual Kruger sighting – Tsessebe

Five Bulls in a row

Enjoying the freshest water

Hippos ignore the Yellow-billed Storks

Some of the most fearsome jaws in nature

Giraffe necking – some of those hits must have hurt

Waterbuck bulls are more interested in the ladies than us

Just outside camp on our final drive, we had one of those rare sightings that makes you blink twice and wonder if your eyes are playing tricks. We were meandering along the river loops when a flash of white darted across the road in front of us. We stopped immediately, and there it was—perched to the left, a pure white squirrel. I scrambled for my camera, but of course, it chose that moment to focus on the nearest leaves. By the time I’d adjusted, the squirrel had vanished into the undergrowth.

Whether it was a true albino or leucistic, I couldn’t say. But what struck me most was how starkly its snowy coat stood out against the muted tones of the bush—like a tiny beacon in a world of camouflage. It’s a wonder it’s survived to adulthood, given how visible it must be to every predator, feathered or four-legged. We could only hope this little ghost of the veld continues to evade its predators. 

My out of focus pic of the squirrel

Back at camp, we found ourselves surrounded by twelve Maui motor homes, all part of a French tour group. They’d formed a loose circle, and our little Gecko stood out like a lone ranger. The evening was quiet, punctuated by night sounds and snippets of French conversation drifting through the air.

The next morning marked the start of our 2,000-kilometre journey home. As always, leaving Kruger felt like leaving a piece of ourselves behind.

Sunset on our holiday!

Impressions of Kruger

This visit brought a pleasant surprise: signs of real maintenance. Letaba now has a new electrified diamond mesh fence, and the new shop is a welcome upgrade. The debris from the old, burned-down shop has finally been cleared. Though we were a bit unsettled by the sight of a large animal trap near the campsite—what exactly were they hoping to catch?

Across the camps, things looked more cared for. Gardens were tended, paths swept, and for the first time in ages, we didn’t spot toilet paper strewn along the loops near the Letaba River. On our last visit, it had been a real eyesore.

We had a wonderful time—short, but rich with wildlife, quiet moments, and the kind of peace only the bush can offer. There’s nothing quite like sitting under a sky full of stars, drink in hand, the scent of roasting meat in the air. The calls of Scops Owls and nightjars blend with jackal howls, hyena whoops, and every now and then, the deep, primal roar of a lion.

Kruger is more than a destination—it’s a balm for the soul. And it’s a place we’ll keep returning to, again and again.

Gecko 109 on Safari – Episode 3 – Wildlife and Tranquility in Kruger – By Guest Blogger, Cathy

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In my previous blog, I mistakenly referred to our meal stop as the Farmers Market at Alzu. The correct name is the Farmer’s Bistro. I also mentioned we were heading to Mopani, when in fact it was Maroela—clearly, I mixed up my trees! These slip-ups have now been corrected in the earlier posts.

From Kopjies to Riverbeds: A Journey Through Kruger
We left Berg-en-Dal early, eager to explore a new corner of the Park—Maroela, a satellite campsite near Orpen. The drive was, once again, a joy. Kruger never disappoints when it comes to wildlife, and this leg of the trip gifted us one of the Park’s most elusive treasures: a pack of wild dogs lounging in a riverbed. These endangered canines are high on every visitor’s wish list, and although we’d hoped to spot the resident pack near Satara, we were lucky enough to encounter them much earlier.

Not long after, we found a young leopard trying to get comfortable in a tree. Choosing the right, smooth branch for a lazy day is very important.

Young leopard doing its best to get comfortable

Our First Glimpse of the Dogs

Wild Dogs in the river bed

Every river has its crocodiles!
Not long after, we came across a pride of lions—albeit far from the road. It always amazes me how some people can spot the faintest flicker of movement or a subtle shape in the distance. One kind soul pointed out a green mound near a cluster of trees, and sure enough, through binoculars, nine lions lay dozing in the sun. I’ll never stop marvelling at the eyesight of seasoned bush-goers!

Lions Lazing in the sunshine

One young male keeps watch

A Pitstop at Satara
By midday, we reached the Orpen turnoff and decided to pop into Satara for lunch and fuel. A delicious chicken salad at the Cattle Baron hit the spot, and with a full tank, we made our way to Maroela.

Along the way, we were lucky to encounter another rarity at Kruger, the Southern Ground Hornbill. In fact, we saw these magnificent birds a few times. Did you know that these birds are the largest hornbill in the world and one of the heaviest flying birds in South Africa?

A Gorgeous Ground Hornbill

Another prime viewing was watching this young Bataleur play in a puddle! This daft young bird hopped around, sipped a little, and thought about bathing. It fluffed its feathers, dipped down, and then hopped away again.  It went through this performance a few times before tiring of the game and moving off. What a pleasure to see a young animal just enjoying itself.

A young Bataleur playing in a puddle

Maroela: Quiet Charm by the River
After the bustling energy of Satara, Maroela was a breath of fresh air. Small, quiet, and reminiscent of Tsendze, it offered a peaceful retreat. The gate system is self-managed, and many sites overlook the river—dry at the time, but still frequented by elephants and giraffe.
The ablutions, though a bit dated, were spotless. And the showers? Miraculously well-behaved! No rogue spray patterns—just a steady stream of water where it was meant to go. We quickly settled into a lovely site and headed out for our first drive.
The veld around Maroela looked tired, a clear sign of the dry season’s end. Still, the area was alive with elephants, giraffe, impala, kudu, and more. We’ve never been the type to chase only the big cats. There’s so much beauty in the quieter creatures, and we find endless joy in watching them go about their day.

Everyone waiting to drink from the last pool of water

So many beautiful giraffes

A roadblock you don’t argue with

Side-eye from a Hippo

Zebra drink at Nsemani Dam

Rain and Reflection
On our last night at Maroela, the heavens opened. Rain at last! I swear the bush sighed in relief. Thankfully, we’d packed away our awning the night before, so there was no soggy canvas to wrestle with in the morning. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off for Letaba—one of our favourite camps.

Letaba: The Place of Sand
We made good time and arrived late morning, finding a semi-shady site near the fence. Most trees here are Mopani, and at this time of year, they’re bare. It’s a blessing for game viewing—you can see much deeper into the bush, but shade is scarce in the camp.
One of Kruger’s prettiest sights is the Letaba River from the bridge. It’s a haven for waterbuck, hippos, and birds. We spotted African Spoonbills, Three-banded Plovers, Goliath and Grey Herons, Saddle-billed Storks, and the resident Fish Eagle pair.

One of the prettiest views – Letaba River from the bridge

A Waterbuck ram dines on water plant

A pied kingfisher waits for a meal to swim by

Drives and Discoveries
Letaba offers a variety of scenic drives, and we explored most of them during our three-day stay. Elephants were everywhere, and giraffe sightings were particularly lovely. Wildebeest, zebra, and kudu kept us entertained throughout.
On our final afternoon, we stumbled upon a lion kill—perhaps one of the most dramatic sightings we’ve had. Two lionesses were feasting on a buffalo right beside the road. The sound of bones cracking in the silence was a visceral reminder of their power. It’s no wonder the bushveld lives in awe—and fear—of these magnificent creatures.

Lions feast on a buffalo

We could clearly hear the crunching of bones

Elephant Hall – A Must Visit
Of course, no visit to Letaba is complete without once again standing in awe of the tusks of the magnificent tuskers that have lived at Kruger. The Elephant Hall museum is a mine of information about the elephants of the Kruger, and there are many fascinating exhibits to look at, all related to elephants and their life cycles.
There is also a small exhibit of different skulls and skins of other animals in the park. This small museum is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Life-size statue outside the Elephant Hall

Loads of info about elephants

Each tusker has his own display with his tusks

Selection of skulls and skins from other critters

Stars, Braai, and a Glass of Merlot
That evening, we watched the resident hyena pace along the fence, enjoyed a sundowner, and soaked in the peace of camp life. There’s nothing quite like a star-filled sky, the scent of braai in the air, and a glass of merlot in hand.
Again that night, the heavens opened, and we had a terrific thunderstorm. The wind howled and the rain pelted down. Again, the bush got a good watering so I am sure that the green grass is not far away!
A Morning Mishap and a Friendly Fix
The next morning brought a hiccup—our neighbours’ Toyota battery had died overnight. Even a jumpstart couldn’t revive it. Alec drove Waldo to Phalaborwa for a replacement, which delayed our departure for Tsendze. But in true bush spirit, we made new friends, so it was a win-win.
Now, as we head off to Tsendze—where there’s no 220v—the next chapter of this blog will have to wait. But something tells me it’ll be worth the pause.

Gecko 109 on Safari Episode 2 – Discovering Crocodile Bridge: Warthogs and Wildlife – by Guest Blogger, Cathy

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From Bass Lake to Crocodile Bridge: Surprises, Sightings, and a Mop-Wielding Warthog Wrangler

We left Bass Lake early, slightly anxious about finding our way back to the N4 and bracing ourselves for the inevitable convoy of trucks. Thankfully, we navigated back to the N1 without a hitch and soon merged onto the N4. It was busy, as expected, but the dual lanes made for a smooth enough drive.

With no breakfast in our bellies, we decided to stop at the next promising spot—and that turned out to be Alzu. What a surprise! We expected the usual roadside pit stop: a fuel station, maybe a tired-looking restaurant. Instead, Alzu felt like someone had plucked a strip mall from Joburg and dropped it in the middle of the bush. Multiple restaurants, a shop that could rival a small city, and crowds of people everywhere.

After peeking into Mug & Bean and Spur, we opted for the quieter Farmer’s Bistro. Good call. They served up toasted egg and bacon sandwiches on thick farm bread—hearty, delicious, and paired with the obligatory mountain of chips. Alec and I couldn’t even finish ours.

Back on the road, we made good time until we hit a jaw-dropping queue of trucks near Komatipoort—15 kilometres of slow-moving metal. It made us wonder: where do these drivers eat, sleep, or even find a bathroom? Most of the ore trucks don’t have sleeper cabs, so it must be a rough few days inching forward.

Eventually, we turned off towards Crocodile Bridge and felt that familiar thrill—Kruger time. We’d never stayed at Croc Bridge before, and it turned out to be a gem. Neatly demarcated campsites (a rarity!), a warm welcome from the resident bushbuck, and a shady, safe spot for Lizzie, our caravan.

The camp was spotless, with beautifully tended gardens. We met a man wielding a bright green, slightly moth-eaten mop—his warthog deterrent. Apparently, the warthogs like to sleep under vehicles and have midnight tusk-fueled brawls that wreak havoc on wiring. Mop diplomacy at its finest.

Our game drives were fantastic. A courting pair of lions stole the show, but we also saw herds of impala, elegant kudu, and some lovely birds. Croc Bridge was the perfect start to our holiday.

That said, Monday marked the beginning of SAN Parks’ free access week, and the roads turned chaotic. Sightings always cause traffic jams, but with the surge in daily visitors, it was borderline gridlock.

Our courting couple off to find a room
A cute steenbok stopped to say hello
Our first Ellies – Always a treat
Plenty of beautiful giraffe
The scourge of Crocodile Bridge!

The Long Drive to Berg-en-Dal: Rhinos, Rock Formations, and a Camp That Could Use a Map

After two nights at Croc Bridge, we headed to Berg-en-Dal. We had three options: backtrack to the N4 and brave the trucks again, take the bone-rattling gravel road between Croc Bridge and Malelane, or enjoy a leisurely drive up the tar road via Skukuza. No contest—we chose the tar road and stopped at Lower Sabie for breakfast.

Berg-en-Dal was bustling. Cars, vans, tents—everywhere. It took a while to find a spot, and honestly, I wish SAN Parks would follow Croc Bridge’s lead and demarcate sites. At Berg-en-Dal, it was hard to tell where one site ended and another began. At one point, a tent was completely boxed in by vehicles, and a mini reshuffle was needed just to let the poor campers out.

Still, the sightings were wonderful. The landscape here is stunning—rocky kopjies and dramatic rock formations. It’s prime rhino territory, and we were lucky to spot a cow and her calf. The highlight, though, was a female leopard doing what leopards do best: napping. She was so relaxed, it felt like a privilege just to watch her breathe.

After two lovely days, it was time to pack up and head to Maroela—another first for us.

Such an elegant lady – female Kudu
A stunning lilac-breasted Roller
Buffalo by the dozen
Alec’s favourite bird – yellow-billed hornbill
Grey Heron – head on!
Mama Rhino with her calf

One sleepy leopard
Wonder if the elephant wanted to admire the fig

The Curse of the Smartphone: A Rant from the Riverbank

One thing I just can’t wrap my head around is the obsession with phones. At Lower Sabie’s Mug & Bean, we sat on the veranda overlooking the magnificent Sabie River. Birds flitted across the water, animals moved in the distance—and yet, most people were glued to their screens.

Before even greeting the waiter, phones were out, thumbs scrolling. No eye contact, no conversation, just a sea of faces lit by blue light. And it’s not just teenagers—it’s everyone. Why come to the park if your main interest is a 4×6 inch screen?

Don’t get me wrong—my phone’s a useful tool. But I sincerely hope it never becomes the most important thing in my life.

Exploring Campgrounds on the Journey to Kruger National Park – By Guest Blogger, Cathy

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The Long Trip Up
Living in the Cape means any visit to Kruger—or really anywhere up north—is going to be a proper road trip. So instead of just gunning it up the N2, Alec and I figured we’d take our time and enjoy the journey.

We hit the road bright and early on Monday, 15th September, knowing the first leg to Camdeboo Reserve near Graaff-Reinet would be our longest stretch. Things were going smoothly until just before Swellendam, where we found ourselves trailing behind a combine harvester being moved between farms. With steady traffic coming from the other direction, overtaking wasn’t an option—so we leaned into the moment, slowed down, and soaked up the scenery.

We stopped in De Rust for a late brunch at Johnny’s Café, then pushed on to Camdeboo, arriving just in time before the gates closed. We picked a campsite and settled in for the night. It’s a great stopover—close enough to Graaff-Reinet for a quick bite in town, but also perfect for a quiet braai if you’d rather stay put. The sites are nicely spaced and feel private, and while the ablutions are a bit dated, they’re perfectly functional. All in all, a comfortable start to the trip.

Onward to Bloemfontein
The next morning, we hit the road toward Bloemfontein, with our second stop planned at Bietjie Rus—a campsite that came recommended by the Gecko Owners Group. The drive itself was smooth and uneventful, and we gratefully tucked into a late breakfast in Colesburg before continuing on.

We reached Bietjie Rus with time to spare. It’s a decent spot for a quick overnight stay, though the stands are quite close together, so don’t expect much in the way of privacy. The ablutions were clean and tidy, which made things comfortable enough, but the nearby truck stop meant the night wasn’t exactly quiet.

Friends, Farms, and Gecko Gatherings
On Wednesday, we headed to Kroonstad to stay with our good friends, Paul and Maureen Lindsay. After a bit of a squeeze getting the caravan through their gate and nudging the Ranger into the garage, we settled in for two lovely nights of catching up.

Thursday was a treat—Paul took us out to his farm to show off his herd of beef cattle, flocks of sheep, and a group of Blesbok. Like many farmers, he’s keeping a hopeful eye on the skies for rain, but his animals are looking fantastic. It was a relaxed, memorable day spent with great company.

Cathy & Maureen admire the horses

Beef Cattle

Friday morning, we packed up and made our way to Bass Lake near Pretoria for the Gecko Owners Get Together. That meant braving the traffic through Johannesburg and Midrand, but we navigated it without too much fuss and soon found ourselves at the most impressive gates I’ve ever seen—so big, I’m convinced a double-decker bus could cruise right through.

Bass Lake is a beautiful lodge, with large, tranquil lakes stocked with trout and bass for catch-and-release fishing. The campsites are level and well laid out, and the paved paths make it easy to wander around.

The weekend was a joy. It was wonderful reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones. Kobus, our host for the weekend, greeted us with name tags and a thoughtful welcome gift of rusks and coffee sachets—a lovely touch to start things off.

Friday evening’s braai was our first group meal, and it was our turn to bring a salad, so we contributed a mixed one. Each couple took a turn providing a salad, which made catering simple and stress-free. Saturday started slowly, with a relaxed morning followed by tea at the lodge. Sitting on the patio overlooking the lakes, sipping tea and enjoying a slice of Lemon Meringue Pie—it was just perfect.

After another great braai on Saturday night, we turned in early, ready for the next leg of our journey: the long drive along the N4 to Komatipoort, where we’d enter Kruger at Crocodile Bridge.

Some standout moments from the weekend included Rudi and Mariaan’s delicious pudding, and watching Herman and Marie teach Margie and David how to make Pot Bread. And a special thank you to Margie for the gift of homemade cookies—absolutely delightful. It was also great to hear how our old travelling companions, Earl and Helen, were sorely missed!

We also enjoyed chatting to Johan about the plans for Gecko going forward. It seems there are some exciting new ideas in the works, so we will have to watch out for them.

Alec Packing up at Bass Lake

All the Geckos in a Row

Morning Tea at Bass Lake

Alec enjoying the view at Bass Lake.