Category Archives: Kruger National Park

Gecko 109 on Safari – Final Episode -Wildlife Encounters at Kruger: Elephants and More by Guest Blogger, Cathy.

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Solar Struggles and Starry Nights: Tsendze and Beyond

As I mentioned in our last post, our departure for Tsendze was delayed by a bit of roadside camaraderie. Waldo and Desiré, fellow campers, had car trouble, and Alec offered to help. After a trip to Phalaborwa and some mechanical magic, the comforting roar of Waldo’s engine signalled success. We packed up, said a warm farewell to our new friends, and finally hit the road.

The drive to Tsendze was lovely—clear skies and a gentle warmth that would later climb to a blistering 37°C. We stopped at Mopani Camp to check in, where the ever-friendly ladies at reception greeted us with their usual friendly faces. Tsendze is one of the few Kruger camps where sites are allocated, so after receiving our spot, we drove the eight or so kilometres back to the entrance.

The gates at Tsendze are a bit of a landmark, and as always, Alec did a quick scan of the bush to ensure I wouldn’t become a widow before opening them. We found campsite #5 and were thrilled to see a large tree offering generous shade—much needed, as the heat had become oppressive and there’s no electricity at Tsendze. Our aircon was out of the question, so we relied solely on our 12V system to keep the fridge and lights going.

Once the van was set up and the solar panels laid out to catch what sun they could, we returned to Mopani for a lazy lunch on the deck overlooking Pioneer Dam. The elephants were having a glorious pool party—splashing, playing, and generally making us wish we could join them.

An Elephant Pool Party at Pioneer dam

Back at camp, the afternoon drifted by as we enjoyed the birds and squirrels in the surrounding bush. As evening fell and the heat softened, we settled in with our customary drinks and opted for a simple sandwich supper, still full from lunch and not quite ready to brave the stove.

As tradition goes, Roger popped by to welcome us. He’s a fixture at Tsendze — knowledgeable, kind, and always ready with a story. He apologized for the foot traffic near our site; a nest of barn owls had drawn curious children from across the camp. Roger’s passion for and knowledge of the birds and animals of the area is encyclopaedic, especially when it comes to owls. It’s always a pleasure chatting with him.

Kruger’s bird life felt like a living field guide. We enjoyed watching them in camp and on our drives. There were many different species but there are a few that are our favourites.

A majestic martial eagle

Marabou Storks were at the end of the line when looks were handed out

A Pale Chanting Goshawk peers out

Mocking Cliff Chat poses beautifully

Ford Tailed Drongos were everywhere

A Kurrichane Thrush looks for supper

Egrets and a Cormorant look for supper

Alec’s favourite Bird – Yellow Billed Hornbill

Burchells Coucal dozes in the sun

Crested Francolin are accomplished beggars

Gorgeous Tawny Eagle

Bennet’s Woodpecker

Southern Ground Hornbills

Beautiful mature Bataleur

White fronted Bee Eater waiting for prey

Busy Magpie Shrike

African Jacana forages in the shallows

After a refreshing shower, we turned in early, eager to explore the area the next day. But morning greeted us with thick cloud cover — a camper’s nemesis when relying on solar power. Our panels, usually reliable in partial sun, couldn’t keep up under the heavy skies. With our battery struggling, we made another trip to Mopani to see if we could swap our booking for a powered site at Letaba. The receptionist worked her magic and found us a place one night, which was better than nothing, especially with school holidays filling up the camps.

We packed up and headed back to Letaba, grateful for the reprieve and already making mental notes about upgrading our electrical setup. Lithium batteries? Better panels? A puzzle for another day.

Letaba welcomed us with a lovely site, and we spent the afternoon revisiting some of our favourite spots—the bridge over the river, Engelhart Dam, and the loops off the Phalaborwa Road. Kruger, as always, delivered. One of my favourite sightings was a line of elephant bulls marching out of the bush to drink at a reservoir—majestic and utterly grounding.

On a blazing day these zebra needed a drink

Buffalo also drinking at the same waterhole

An unusual Kruger sighting – Tsessebe

Five Bulls in a row

Enjoying the freshest water

Hippos ignore the Yellow-billed Storks

Some of the most fearsome jaws in nature

Giraffe necking – some of those hits must have hurt

Waterbuck bulls are more interested in the ladies than us

Just outside camp on our final drive, we had one of those rare sightings that makes you blink twice and wonder if your eyes are playing tricks. We were meandering along the river loops when a flash of white darted across the road in front of us. We stopped immediately, and there it was—perched to the left, a pure white squirrel. I scrambled for my camera, but of course, it chose that moment to focus on the nearest leaves. By the time I’d adjusted, the squirrel had vanished into the undergrowth.

Whether it was a true albino or leucistic, I couldn’t say. But what struck me most was how starkly its snowy coat stood out against the muted tones of the bush—like a tiny beacon in a world of camouflage. It’s a wonder it’s survived to adulthood, given how visible it must be to every predator, feathered or four-legged. We could only hope this little ghost of the veld continues to evade its predators. 

My out of focus pic of the squirrel

Back at camp, we found ourselves surrounded by twelve Maui motor homes, all part of a French tour group. They’d formed a loose circle, and our little Gecko stood out like a lone ranger. The evening was quiet, punctuated by night sounds and snippets of French conversation drifting through the air.

The next morning marked the start of our 2,000-kilometre journey home. As always, leaving Kruger felt like leaving a piece of ourselves behind.

Sunset on our holiday!

Impressions of Kruger

This visit brought a pleasant surprise: signs of real maintenance. Letaba now has a new electrified diamond mesh fence, and the new shop is a welcome upgrade. The debris from the old, burned-down shop has finally been cleared. Though we were a bit unsettled by the sight of a large animal trap near the campsite—what exactly were they hoping to catch?

Across the camps, things looked more cared for. Gardens were tended, paths swept, and for the first time in ages, we didn’t spot toilet paper strewn along the loops near the Letaba River. On our last visit, it had been a real eyesore.

We had a wonderful time—short, but rich with wildlife, quiet moments, and the kind of peace only the bush can offer. There’s nothing quite like sitting under a sky full of stars, drink in hand, the scent of roasting meat in the air. The calls of Scops Owls and nightjars blend with jackal howls, hyena whoops, and every now and then, the deep, primal roar of a lion.

Kruger is more than a destination—it’s a balm for the soul. And it’s a place we’ll keep returning to, again and again.

Gecko 109 on Safari – Episode 3 – Wildlife and Tranquility in Kruger – By Guest Blogger, Cathy

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In my previous blog, I mistakenly referred to our meal stop as the Farmers Market at Alzu. The correct name is the Farmer’s Bistro. I also mentioned we were heading to Mopani, when in fact it was Maroela—clearly, I mixed up my trees! These slip-ups have now been corrected in the earlier posts.

From Kopjies to Riverbeds: A Journey Through Kruger
We left Berg-en-Dal early, eager to explore a new corner of the Park—Maroela, a satellite campsite near Orpen. The drive was, once again, a joy. Kruger never disappoints when it comes to wildlife, and this leg of the trip gifted us one of the Park’s most elusive treasures: a pack of wild dogs lounging in a riverbed. These endangered canines are high on every visitor’s wish list, and although we’d hoped to spot the resident pack near Satara, we were lucky enough to encounter them much earlier.

Not long after, we found a young leopard trying to get comfortable in a tree. Choosing the right, smooth branch for a lazy day is very important.

Young leopard doing its best to get comfortable

Our First Glimpse of the Dogs

Wild Dogs in the river bed

Every river has its crocodiles!
Not long after, we came across a pride of lions—albeit far from the road. It always amazes me how some people can spot the faintest flicker of movement or a subtle shape in the distance. One kind soul pointed out a green mound near a cluster of trees, and sure enough, through binoculars, nine lions lay dozing in the sun. I’ll never stop marvelling at the eyesight of seasoned bush-goers!

Lions Lazing in the sunshine

One young male keeps watch

A Pitstop at Satara
By midday, we reached the Orpen turnoff and decided to pop into Satara for lunch and fuel. A delicious chicken salad at the Cattle Baron hit the spot, and with a full tank, we made our way to Maroela.

Along the way, we were lucky to encounter another rarity at Kruger, the Southern Ground Hornbill. In fact, we saw these magnificent birds a few times. Did you know that these birds are the largest hornbill in the world and one of the heaviest flying birds in South Africa?

A Gorgeous Ground Hornbill

Another prime viewing was watching this young Bataleur play in a puddle! This daft young bird hopped around, sipped a little, and thought about bathing. It fluffed its feathers, dipped down, and then hopped away again.  It went through this performance a few times before tiring of the game and moving off. What a pleasure to see a young animal just enjoying itself.

A young Bataleur playing in a puddle

Maroela: Quiet Charm by the River
After the bustling energy of Satara, Maroela was a breath of fresh air. Small, quiet, and reminiscent of Tsendze, it offered a peaceful retreat. The gate system is self-managed, and many sites overlook the river—dry at the time, but still frequented by elephants and giraffe.
The ablutions, though a bit dated, were spotless. And the showers? Miraculously well-behaved! No rogue spray patterns—just a steady stream of water where it was meant to go. We quickly settled into a lovely site and headed out for our first drive.
The veld around Maroela looked tired, a clear sign of the dry season’s end. Still, the area was alive with elephants, giraffe, impala, kudu, and more. We’ve never been the type to chase only the big cats. There’s so much beauty in the quieter creatures, and we find endless joy in watching them go about their day.

Everyone waiting to drink from the last pool of water

So many beautiful giraffes

A roadblock you don’t argue with

Side-eye from a Hippo

Zebra drink at Nsemani Dam

Rain and Reflection
On our last night at Maroela, the heavens opened. Rain at last! I swear the bush sighed in relief. Thankfully, we’d packed away our awning the night before, so there was no soggy canvas to wrestle with in the morning. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off for Letaba—one of our favourite camps.

Letaba: The Place of Sand
We made good time and arrived late morning, finding a semi-shady site near the fence. Most trees here are Mopani, and at this time of year, they’re bare. It’s a blessing for game viewing—you can see much deeper into the bush, but shade is scarce in the camp.
One of Kruger’s prettiest sights is the Letaba River from the bridge. It’s a haven for waterbuck, hippos, and birds. We spotted African Spoonbills, Three-banded Plovers, Goliath and Grey Herons, Saddle-billed Storks, and the resident Fish Eagle pair.

One of the prettiest views – Letaba River from the bridge

A Waterbuck ram dines on water plant

A pied kingfisher waits for a meal to swim by

Drives and Discoveries
Letaba offers a variety of scenic drives, and we explored most of them during our three-day stay. Elephants were everywhere, and giraffe sightings were particularly lovely. Wildebeest, zebra, and kudu kept us entertained throughout.
On our final afternoon, we stumbled upon a lion kill—perhaps one of the most dramatic sightings we’ve had. Two lionesses were feasting on a buffalo right beside the road. The sound of bones cracking in the silence was a visceral reminder of their power. It’s no wonder the bushveld lives in awe—and fear—of these magnificent creatures.

Lions feast on a buffalo

We could clearly hear the crunching of bones

Elephant Hall – A Must Visit
Of course, no visit to Letaba is complete without once again standing in awe of the tusks of the magnificent tuskers that have lived at Kruger. The Elephant Hall museum is a mine of information about the elephants of the Kruger, and there are many fascinating exhibits to look at, all related to elephants and their life cycles.
There is also a small exhibit of different skulls and skins of other animals in the park. This small museum is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Life-size statue outside the Elephant Hall

Loads of info about elephants

Each tusker has his own display with his tusks

Selection of skulls and skins from other critters

Stars, Braai, and a Glass of Merlot
That evening, we watched the resident hyena pace along the fence, enjoyed a sundowner, and soaked in the peace of camp life. There’s nothing quite like a star-filled sky, the scent of braai in the air, and a glass of merlot in hand.
Again that night, the heavens opened, and we had a terrific thunderstorm. The wind howled and the rain pelted down. Again, the bush got a good watering so I am sure that the green grass is not far away!
A Morning Mishap and a Friendly Fix
The next morning brought a hiccup—our neighbours’ Toyota battery had died overnight. Even a jumpstart couldn’t revive it. Alec drove Waldo to Phalaborwa for a replacement, which delayed our departure for Tsendze. But in true bush spirit, we made new friends, so it was a win-win.
Now, as we head off to Tsendze—where there’s no 220v—the next chapter of this blog will have to wait. But something tells me it’ll be worth the pause.

Gecko 109 on Safari Episode 2 – Discovering Crocodile Bridge: Warthogs and Wildlife – by Guest Blogger, Cathy

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From Bass Lake to Crocodile Bridge: Surprises, Sightings, and a Mop-Wielding Warthog Wrangler

We left Bass Lake early, slightly anxious about finding our way back to the N4 and bracing ourselves for the inevitable convoy of trucks. Thankfully, we navigated back to the N1 without a hitch and soon merged onto the N4. It was busy, as expected, but the dual lanes made for a smooth enough drive.

With no breakfast in our bellies, we decided to stop at the next promising spot—and that turned out to be Alzu. What a surprise! We expected the usual roadside pit stop: a fuel station, maybe a tired-looking restaurant. Instead, Alzu felt like someone had plucked a strip mall from Joburg and dropped it in the middle of the bush. Multiple restaurants, a shop that could rival a small city, and crowds of people everywhere.

After peeking into Mug & Bean and Spur, we opted for the quieter Farmer’s Bistro. Good call. They served up toasted egg and bacon sandwiches on thick farm bread—hearty, delicious, and paired with the obligatory mountain of chips. Alec and I couldn’t even finish ours.

Back on the road, we made good time until we hit a jaw-dropping queue of trucks near Komatipoort—15 kilometres of slow-moving metal. It made us wonder: where do these drivers eat, sleep, or even find a bathroom? Most of the ore trucks don’t have sleeper cabs, so it must be a rough few days inching forward.

Eventually, we turned off towards Crocodile Bridge and felt that familiar thrill—Kruger time. We’d never stayed at Croc Bridge before, and it turned out to be a gem. Neatly demarcated campsites (a rarity!), a warm welcome from the resident bushbuck, and a shady, safe spot for Lizzie, our caravan.

The camp was spotless, with beautifully tended gardens. We met a man wielding a bright green, slightly moth-eaten mop—his warthog deterrent. Apparently, the warthogs like to sleep under vehicles and have midnight tusk-fueled brawls that wreak havoc on wiring. Mop diplomacy at its finest.

Our game drives were fantastic. A courting pair of lions stole the show, but we also saw herds of impala, elegant kudu, and some lovely birds. Croc Bridge was the perfect start to our holiday.

That said, Monday marked the beginning of SAN Parks’ free access week, and the roads turned chaotic. Sightings always cause traffic jams, but with the surge in daily visitors, it was borderline gridlock.

Our courting couple off to find a room
A cute steenbok stopped to say hello
Our first Ellies – Always a treat
Plenty of beautiful giraffe
The scourge of Crocodile Bridge!

The Long Drive to Berg-en-Dal: Rhinos, Rock Formations, and a Camp That Could Use a Map

After two nights at Croc Bridge, we headed to Berg-en-Dal. We had three options: backtrack to the N4 and brave the trucks again, take the bone-rattling gravel road between Croc Bridge and Malelane, or enjoy a leisurely drive up the tar road via Skukuza. No contest—we chose the tar road and stopped at Lower Sabie for breakfast.

Berg-en-Dal was bustling. Cars, vans, tents—everywhere. It took a while to find a spot, and honestly, I wish SAN Parks would follow Croc Bridge’s lead and demarcate sites. At Berg-en-Dal, it was hard to tell where one site ended and another began. At one point, a tent was completely boxed in by vehicles, and a mini reshuffle was needed just to let the poor campers out.

Still, the sightings were wonderful. The landscape here is stunning—rocky kopjies and dramatic rock formations. It’s prime rhino territory, and we were lucky to spot a cow and her calf. The highlight, though, was a female leopard doing what leopards do best: napping. She was so relaxed, it felt like a privilege just to watch her breathe.

After two lovely days, it was time to pack up and head to Maroela—another first for us.

Such an elegant lady – female Kudu
A stunning lilac-breasted Roller
Buffalo by the dozen
Alec’s favourite bird – yellow-billed hornbill
Grey Heron – head on!
Mama Rhino with her calf

One sleepy leopard
Wonder if the elephant wanted to admire the fig

The Curse of the Smartphone: A Rant from the Riverbank

One thing I just can’t wrap my head around is the obsession with phones. At Lower Sabie’s Mug & Bean, we sat on the veranda overlooking the magnificent Sabie River. Birds flitted across the water, animals moved in the distance—and yet, most people were glued to their screens.

Before even greeting the waiter, phones were out, thumbs scrolling. No eye contact, no conversation, just a sea of faces lit by blue light. And it’s not just teenagers—it’s everyone. Why come to the park if your main interest is a 4×6 inch screen?

Don’t get me wrong—my phone’s a useful tool. But I sincerely hope it never becomes the most important thing in my life.

Exploring Campgrounds on the Journey to Kruger National Park – By Guest Blogger, Cathy

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The Long Trip Up
Living in the Cape means any visit to Kruger—or really anywhere up north—is going to be a proper road trip. So instead of just gunning it up the N2, Alec and I figured we’d take our time and enjoy the journey.

We hit the road bright and early on Monday, 15th September, knowing the first leg to Camdeboo Reserve near Graaff-Reinet would be our longest stretch. Things were going smoothly until just before Swellendam, where we found ourselves trailing behind a combine harvester being moved between farms. With steady traffic coming from the other direction, overtaking wasn’t an option—so we leaned into the moment, slowed down, and soaked up the scenery.

We stopped in De Rust for a late brunch at Johnny’s Café, then pushed on to Camdeboo, arriving just in time before the gates closed. We picked a campsite and settled in for the night. It’s a great stopover—close enough to Graaff-Reinet for a quick bite in town, but also perfect for a quiet braai if you’d rather stay put. The sites are nicely spaced and feel private, and while the ablutions are a bit dated, they’re perfectly functional. All in all, a comfortable start to the trip.

Onward to Bloemfontein
The next morning, we hit the road toward Bloemfontein, with our second stop planned at Bietjie Rus—a campsite that came recommended by the Gecko Owners Group. The drive itself was smooth and uneventful, and we gratefully tucked into a late breakfast in Colesburg before continuing on.

We reached Bietjie Rus with time to spare. It’s a decent spot for a quick overnight stay, though the stands are quite close together, so don’t expect much in the way of privacy. The ablutions were clean and tidy, which made things comfortable enough, but the nearby truck stop meant the night wasn’t exactly quiet.

Friends, Farms, and Gecko Gatherings
On Wednesday, we headed to Kroonstad to stay with our good friends, Paul and Maureen Lindsay. After a bit of a squeeze getting the caravan through their gate and nudging the Ranger into the garage, we settled in for two lovely nights of catching up.

Thursday was a treat—Paul took us out to his farm to show off his herd of beef cattle, flocks of sheep, and a group of Blesbok. Like many farmers, he’s keeping a hopeful eye on the skies for rain, but his animals are looking fantastic. It was a relaxed, memorable day spent with great company.

Cathy & Maureen admire the horses

Beef Cattle

Friday morning, we packed up and made our way to Bass Lake near Pretoria for the Gecko Owners Get Together. That meant braving the traffic through Johannesburg and Midrand, but we navigated it without too much fuss and soon found ourselves at the most impressive gates I’ve ever seen—so big, I’m convinced a double-decker bus could cruise right through.

Bass Lake is a beautiful lodge, with large, tranquil lakes stocked with trout and bass for catch-and-release fishing. The campsites are level and well laid out, and the paved paths make it easy to wander around.

The weekend was a joy. It was wonderful reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones. Kobus, our host for the weekend, greeted us with name tags and a thoughtful welcome gift of rusks and coffee sachets—a lovely touch to start things off.

Friday evening’s braai was our first group meal, and it was our turn to bring a salad, so we contributed a mixed one. Each couple took a turn providing a salad, which made catering simple and stress-free. Saturday started slowly, with a relaxed morning followed by tea at the lodge. Sitting on the patio overlooking the lakes, sipping tea and enjoying a slice of Lemon Meringue Pie—it was just perfect.

After another great braai on Saturday night, we turned in early, ready for the next leg of our journey: the long drive along the N4 to Komatipoort, where we’d enter Kruger at Crocodile Bridge.

Some standout moments from the weekend included Rudi and Mariaan’s delicious pudding, and watching Herman and Marie teach Margie and David how to make Pot Bread. And a special thank you to Margie for the gift of homemade cookies—absolutely delightful. It was also great to hear how our old travelling companions, Earl and Helen, were sorely missed!

We also enjoyed chatting to Johan about the plans for Gecko going forward. It seems there are some exciting new ideas in the works, so we will have to watch out for them.

Alec Packing up at Bass Lake

All the Geckos in a Row

Morning Tea at Bass Lake

Alec enjoying the view at Bass Lake.

Breaking Free from Lockdown. Day 44. Kleinplaas to Home

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The further south we travelled the colder it became. We were on our way back to winter! This morning at 06:00 it was 5 degrees C and it didn’t rise very much until midday.

We all felt that we’d come to the end of the lollipop and our hearts went plop! The road trip was over. This last leg of the journey was the shortest drive we had to do. We followed Route 62 and stopped at Barrydale’s Country Pumpkin for breakfast. The sun was shining and it was warmer to sit outdoors at a sunny table than inside where it was very cold. We ordered our coffees/teas and enjoyed the warming effect of the hot liquid. When the waitress took our breakfast order she informed us that as we were caravanners we got our first cup free! Good on you Country Pumpkin for being so nice to caravanners! I was the only one to order a second cup. We all had omelettes which were absolutely delicious . They were served with sweet potato crisps and a small pumpkin fritter.

Two Geckos parked outside The Country Pumpkin in Barrydale

From then on we travelled the picturesque Tradeaux pass and it was once again a pleasure not to play dodge the pothole! Western Cape roads are in good condition.

Finally we turned onto the homeward road.

When we got to Bredasdorp we stopped to say an emotional goodbye before splitting to go to our respective homes in Napier and Struisbaai. You really become close to your friends when you spend forty-four days together!

Other friends, Yolandi and Carl and their daughter, Lisa had been staying in our house while waiting to move into their new home in Napier. Yesterday Yolandi sent a cryptic message to the Earl, “Ollie and Benji can’t wait to meet you.” Who were Ollie and Benjy? Hint – The Earl is a bunny hugger!

Hello, We love your garden. Please can this be our new forever home? Benji in front Ollie behind

Of course the Earl was over the moon. I was less so – who would look after them when we travel? We have been assured that a bunny-sitter, living nearby has already been found.

We like it here!

What a lovely end to our adventure.

Thank you all for following our adventure. I hope those of you who have never been to KNP feel the urge to put this wonderful reserve on your bucket list. Should you wish to find out more about booking a Sanparks Holiday, see my tips here.

Dankie aan al die Gecko Familielede wat elke dag saam met ons gery het. Dankie vir die pragitge kommentare op WhatsApp en FaceBook. Ek hoop dat die inligting wat ek ingesluit het, nuttig is.

Tot volgende keer – Totsiens.

PS A fellow blogger, Bushboy, from Australia asked what Bobotie (which I ate for dinner last night) is, so for my non-South African readers here is a brief explanation.

Bobotie is a curried mince dish with a milk and egg custard poured over and baked in the oven. It was imported from Indonesia in the seventeenth century then adapted by the Cape Malay community whose origins are from Indonesia and Malaysia. Click on the caption for a recipe.

Recipe for Bobotie

Breaking Free from Lockdown. Day 43. Gariep to Kleinplaas

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We left Forever Resort, Gariep Dam at 07:30.

Goodbye Gariep
On the road again

Our route took us through the towns of Colesberg, Middleberg, Graaff-Reinet and Willowmore to Oudtshoorn where we are spending the night at Kleinplaas Caravan Park. The roads were amazing and we did not have to play Dodge the Pothole or Pass the Truck.

We filled up with fuel at Caltex Colesberg, found their restaurant and shop closed so continued to Shell Ultra City for breakfast at their Steers. The further south we travelled the cooler the weather became. It was lunchtime when we arrived at Willowmore where we filled up at Engen and then went to a quaint little coffee shop called Kapoet. Some of these small town have the loveliest ideas when decorating their shops. This coffee shop sold a variety of crafts, beauty products, confectionery and jams etc. The Earl and Alec went straight over to the confectionery section to see what was on offer. There were so many wonderful things in the shop that the Earl ended up spending more money than he intended on some specialty meats. Finally we sat down to tea/coffee and pancakes – cinnamon for Cathy and Alec and Spinach and Feta for the Earl and me. If you’re travelling through Willowmore with a caravan there is enough room to park in the street outside and Kapoet is well worth a visit.

Kapoet is an Afrikaans word which loosely translated means finished, at the end of your tether, defeated, So here you can refresh yourself
Lots of tempting products on offer
A wonderful place to stop and relax and enjoy a snack

We arrived at Kleinplaas at 16:00. Kleinplaas has lovely well-laid out, shady campsites. At reception they suggested we share a campsite so it cost half of what it would have. You are given a key to the ablution block and they are pristine. Kleinplaas is highly recommended as a stopover place in Oudtshoorn.

It was a little drizzly and cool so we decided not to order pizza and sit outside to eat as we did the last time we stayed here. Instead we went to Nostalgie. Alec was not feeling well so he did not accompany us. Cathy had the lamb shank – delicious. Earl had an ostrich fillet burger – divine and I had the best bobotie I’ve ever eaten. The restaurant is an old 80 year old converted house consisting of different rooms so when one is full they open another. The service was friendly, quick and efficient and you felt you were being entertained in somebody’s home. We just loved it.

Old hats decorating the walls of the room we had at Nostalgie

Tomorrow will be the last leg of our long, wonderful holiday.

Breaking Free from Lockdown. Day 42. Moreson to Forever Resort – Gariep

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Sorry everyone but I got the name of the place we stayed at wrong in my post yesterday. It is not Sonop but Moreson which is 10 km outside the town of Vrede in the Free State. I have made the corrections.

As I stepped out of the caravan this morning, I spotted a little scrub hare hopping across the path and into the bush. It was a lovely start to the day.

The Earl got a lovely shot of the sunrise

We were on the road by 07:15 and once again rattled over the awful road until we joined the R34 then R103 to Warden. From there we travelled the R714 to Bethlehem before turning onto the N5 to Senekal and on to Winberg where we took the N1 to Gariep. On all of the R roads we played Dodge the Pothole, a dangerous game that was no fun at all. But we survived and changed the game to Follow the Truck and Pass When You Can which was frustrating as you simply couldn’t win but it was a tad less dangerous than the previous game.

A highlight of the trip, though, was our stop at Senekal Padstal. It is right on the N5 and has plenty of parking for caravans. The men were delighted to find a variety of confectionery on sale and indulged a few packets of crunchies, ginger snaps and soet koekies. Our breakfast was fluffy scrambled eggs, delicious pork sausages, bacon, tomato and toast at a very reasonable R60 per person including large mugs of excellent coffee.

It was indeed a long walk to the toilets
A lovely spot with a shop selling confectionary and crafts
A relaxing place to chill and have a meal after a long drive

At Winberg a fellow Gecko owner who was not towing his caravan passed us and posted a message on the Gecko Family Whatsapp Group. The Earl noticed that a Ford Ranger with a CCC registration had zapped past us. He is observant that way! Nice to meet you Charl and Tillie. Hope you found a lovely place to stay over.

We arrived at Forever Gariep at 15:00, checked in and found two level caravan sites near the wonderful ablutions for which this camp is famous.

Two Geckos at Gariep
Gariep Dam

In the evening we went to the restaurant for dinner. The service was a little slow but the food was fine. The Earl had rooibok shank, Alec had chicken schnitzel and Cathy and I had Chicken Breast de la Casa. All were served with chips and salad.

Gariep Forever Resort is highly recommended as a stopover or a holiday destination. The facilities are great and there are many activities on offer for adults and children.

Breaking Free from Lockdown. Day 41. Berge-en-Dal to Moreson Ranch

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Sadly today we left Kruger National Park and started on the first leg of our journey back to Struisbaai and Napier. The Earl and I were ready by 07:00 and left slightly ahead of Alec and Cathy. We drove slowly along the S110. My favourite creatures were there to bid us farewell.

See you next year

Just before we were due to turn off onto the H3 which would take us to the Malelane Gate we saw a line of cars moving very slowly toward us. But who were they following? The king and queen of Kruger.

What are all these cars doing on my road?
Stick close to me, darling.

But instead she broke away from him and passed right by my open window,

Goodbye Your Majesty – see you next time!

It was a heart stopping moment and a wonderful way to end our visit.

Alec and Cathy were slightly delayed by the giraffe crossing the road and they too saw the lions but by then they’d left the road and were wandering off into the bush.

We waited just outside the exit gate for them to catch up and then drove in tandem the rest of the way. We tried to find a place for breakfast in Carolina but there was nothing suitable so we pushed on to Chrissiesmeer. The restaurants we passed looked a bit dodgy until we found Lake Chrissie Lodge. Outside a sign announced that the pub was open. I went in to ask if they did breakfast and the barman went in search of somebody in charge of the kitchen. A charming young lady emerged and said they would cook breakfast for us. I summoned the others and she showed us to a lovely dining room, brought in some coffee and within 15 minutes presented us with scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage and chips. We were the only patrons and it was really kind of them to accommodate us. The breakfast was lovely.

The roads we travelled were mostly good until we got to Standerton and travelled the R546 to Vrede. We had to play ‘dodge the pothole’ all the way and then turned onto the most horrific road to get to Moreson Ranch. Before booking Cathy had asked what the road condition was like and the reply had been, “It’s fine. It’s a tar road.” Well it might once have been but now it’s a corrugated mess which shook us up and rattled our vehicles and caravans in the most unpleasant way. To add injury to insult we found the campsite less than satisfactory. We were the only caravanners there. Our sites had not been raked or cleaned of buck droppings and the private ablutions had not been cleaned. The electricity also tripped because of the hot water geyser not functioning properly. Cathy reported the problems to reception and after a while the farm manager, Peter, arrived to sort everything out. Two young women came to clean the ablutions and later Peter himself came with a bucket and mop to clean another ablution that we had to use because the hot water problem could not be fixed.

Our campsite has a lovely view across the valley but is spoiled by a full on view of the lions they have in captivity. This farm breeds lions, a practice that I just don’t approve of. I find it upsetting to see these lovely wild beasts living in enclosures, never being able to roam and hunt or do things that lions should do.

We went to the restaurant for dinner and all four of us had rump steaks with mushroom sauce, chips and salad. The food was good.

Peter told us that he has just taken over the managing of this establishment. He knows there is a lot wrong and he intends to sort out all the problems as soon as he can. It’s a matter of putting to rights the things that have been neglected due to past bad management. He is a lovely young man and we wish him luck but it’s doubtful that we will ever come down that dreadful road again so we will never see the progress.

Breaking Free from Lockdown. Day 40 – Last Day in KNP

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It was very hot in Kruger today the maximum reaching 39 degrees C. Summer is definitely on the way! Kruger National Park winters are short and even then the days are warm while the early mornings and evenings are cool. We have really enjoyed the August weather having only had very few cold days.

On this our last day we first did a short drive to the waterhole and back, made breakfast, did a few chores and then went out for a longer drive at 11:00 and returning at 15:00. Cathy and Alec did a longer morning drive and did not go out in the afternoon. The middle of the day is not the best time to be driving in the park but it was good to be in an a air-conditioned vehicle and we had a few nice sightings.

The visit to the waterhole at the end of S114 produced flocks of grey headed sparrows, yellow-fronted canaries, quelea and golden-breasted bunting coming down to the water’s edge to drink.

Yellow-fronted Canaries
Golden-breasted bunting
White-fronted bee-eaters were flying around too
And along the road a brown-crowned tchagra posed beautifully

On S110 just before the turnoff to the H3 we found a honeymoon couple. The bride did not show herself properly but the groom did.

On his way to where she lay.
Did the Earth move for you too, darling?

We wanted to go to Gardenia hide but the elephants had other ideas for us.

The shade here and we’re not moving off this road so that you can pass!

Two other vehicles were waiting patiently. There was a narrow route past the big mamma and the Earl wanted to risk passing by. But I said, “No, I am not yet ready to die.” Fortunately he listened to me and turned around. You never know what these creatures might do if they feel their young are threatened.

There had been nothing at Wimpies Waterhole but on the way back we found buffalo having a swim.

There were lots of giraffe around too.

Goodbye giraffe, see you next year.

It has been wonderful as always to visit Kruger National Park. It is always the highlight of my year and I hope to be able to make many more trips while the Earl and I are fit and healthy enough to do so. Having our new Power Touch caravan movers is a great help and will probably mean we can caravan for longer than might otherwise be possible. It has been encouraging seeing a number of people still camping/caravanning well into their eighties.

Berg-en-Dal is without doubt a great place to camp but there are a few problems. One would think that with so many caravans having Porta Potties there would be a facility for their disposal but there isn’t. This is the only camp we have been to where there isn’t one and using the toilets for this purpose is just wrong.

The ablutions are clean but are in need of an upgrade. The taps at the basin don’t work properly. The shower cubicles are a bit small and there is a need for a rack for your shampoo and soap etc. They do not have mixer taps which makes getting the temperature right a bit tricky.

Many people use their own caravan bathrooms which is great but some do not manage their grey water correctly and instead of collecting run off water in a bucket they let it out under the caravan leaving a scummy mess for the camper who comes after them. Park management needs to make a rule about how people manage their water disposal.

We love the park but this year we have noticed that litter has become a bit of a problem. Never before have we seen toilet paper blowing about or hanging on a bush, but this year it was glaring. There are plenty of picnic sites with toilet facilities so it is seldom necessary to risk getting out of your car in the bush when there is an urgent call of nature. But if you have to why would you leave your loo paper behind. How difficult would it be for offenders to put a Zip-lock bag in the center of the cardboard roll for holding their disposed paper. Who do they think will clean up after them?

In spite of these small problems the park is still a wonderful place to be. The staff are cheerful and friendly and will go out of their way to help. Each main camp has a swimming pool, restaurant, shop, laundrette and petrol station. Just remember if you wish to visit the park, book well in advance especially if you wish to visit during school holidays.

Our Berg-en-Dal Campsite

Breaking Free from Lockdown. Day 39 -A Big Five Kinda Day

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Today we were supposed to travel in tandem with Cathy and Alec but we left slightly earlier and planned to meet up on the road. But the best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry. The Earl and I checked out the waterhole at the end of the S110 before doing the Matjulu loop. There was nothing going on there and instead of waiting for Cathy and Alec to catch up we carried on. Bad choice! When they arrived they got the most amazing sighting which delayed them for another half an hour. To cut a long story short, things just didn’t go according to plan. We went on ahead to Crocodile Bridge and when they failed to catch us up on the road we guessed they’d been delayed by something exciting. When we got to Crocodile Bridge we called them to say not to try to catch up as the road was bad. Luckily they were in a spot where they could get cell reception.

We had had some awesome sightings and so had they so I am making this a two part report. I will showcase all Cathy’s fabulous photos in Part 1 and in Part 2 I will report on what happened to the Earl and me.

Part 1 Cathy and Alec’s Awesome Sightings

As I have told you before Alec and Cathy have not had much luck with leopard sightings in Kruger in the past. Earlier on in this trip they did get to see one walking toward them but the photos were not great. Today all that was to change. They arrived at the waterhole just minutes after we had left and had the most amazing leopard sighting anyone could wish for. I am going to let Cathy’s photos tell the story.

HI Alec, I’m here at last
I’m not going anywhere just yet. Cathy, I’m here for a photo shoot!
This is my good side
Is this pose okay?
I can’t pout but don’t you love my lip licking?
How about the twisted look?
I wonder what this is? Oh – just a stone. I can’t eat that
I think I’ll roll about a bit – the mud is a good beauty treatment you know
That was lovely
Well it was great seeing you guys – but now it’s time to go
See you next year!

When they told us all about their day, Alec said that sighting made his holiday and nothing else mattered from then on. However, they continued to have some lovely sightings the photos of which are shown below.

Rhino at Gardenia Hide
A stunning malachite kingfisher
And a white-fronted bee-eater
A warthog having a mud bath
Raafie cannot be left out

Part 2 A Long Day for Earl and Helen

We left camp about twenty minutes before Alec and Cathy and what a difference timing can make to a day. However, although we missed the awesome waterhole leopard – the famous Berg-en-Dal leopard, I think, that is often seen near the camp, we did have a great day ourselves. Our plan was to travel the dirt roads to Crocodile Bridge, have breakfast there and then return on dirt roads too. BUT some of those roads are just not comfortable to ride on so we decided to return the long way round on mostly tar roads. This meant we were out from 07:15 to 17:00 making it a pretty tiring day.

Out first sighting of the day was a giraffe. Many more showed up during the day
Some more of my favourite creature

On the S118 near Wimpie’s Waterhole we found one of the Big Five

How sad that he has had his horn removed. But at least he is now safe from poachers.

Cathy and Alec saw rhino at Gardenia Hide but they weren’t there earlier. However, we did watch some little birds outside the hide.

Jameson’s Firefinch

On the S119 we saw Jim and Maureen’s stationery vehicle and guessed they were looking at something exciting. As we drew nearer I saw exactly what they were peering at.

A headless leopard!

They had been with the leopard for a while and had taken some good photos of it looking at them. After a chat with us they left and we slipped into their spot. I would not let the Earl leave until the leopard showed us her face. After ten minutes she lifted her head, then stood up and stretched before turning around and facing the other way.

She decided to be polite and gave us quite a few lovely photo opportunities. At this stage we did not know where Cathy and Alec were. We called on the walkie-talkie – no response. We phoned – no response either. Later we when we phoned them from Crocodile Bridge they answered and were at this very scene, their second leopard sighting of the day. However, at that time she was fast asleep and did not look at them. After their morning at the waterhole they didn’t mind at all.

Hello, fans – Nice to see you.

After spending some time with the beautiful leopard we moved on toward Crocodile Bridge and had some lovely encounters on the way.

This little guy tried to scare us by flapping his ears, waving his trunk and trumpeting.
We just thought he was cute.
Warthogs and impala were about as usual
A lovely bateleur posed for us

We arrived at Crocodile Bridge at 11 o’clock. There is no restaurant there but you can buy sandwiches or pies from the shop and there is a verandah where you can sit to enjoy your snack with a good cup of coffee made on the premises.

On our return trip on the tar roads we stopped in at Sunset Dam near Lower Sabie Rest Camp.

The elephants were enjoying a drink
And bufflaalo were having fun too.
We enjoyed the Common Waxbills that were flitting about
Crocodiles and hippos were soacking up some sun

Driving next to the Sabie River was rewarding. We saw large herds of buffalo, hundreds of elephant, kudu, impala, giraffe and zebra.

This guy did not want to get out of the way
His herd looked on and did nothing to encourage him off the road.
Just a few of the many elephants that were about
It was the middle of the day when lion low lie but we managed to spot this one

We also saw a big male lion walk through the bush and flop down out of sight.

There were many other animals and birds that we kept stopping for as we continued our long trip home but I think I have posted enough for today.
Sadly tomorrow is our last day and we plan to do a short morning drive so that we have the afternoon free to get ready for the long trek home.