7 November 2020 – A Rest Day

We left Skukuza at quarter to six this morning. The temperature was already 23 degrees C and by midday it was 47 degrees C. Hot does not describe it.

We drove to the bridge that crosses the Sabie River, did the Maroela Loop and then returned to Skukuza for breakfast. After that we went to Lake Panic. In the afternoon we went to the wonderful AM Spa and had a couple’s massage. One hour later and all the past, present and future knots were thoroughly worked out, hopefully never to return!

Here are the highlights of our drive.

Lake Panic was not at all busy with people today and even though it was quiet at first, things improved and we had some interesting sightings.

8 November 2020 Skukuza to Kumana Dam and Back

Once again it was very hot today. We did not leave until quarter to seven when the temperature was already 27 degrees C. By 10:30 it had risen to 43 degrees C.

Our drive today produced more animals and birds than we expected. There wasn’t a dull moment. Our bird list is now up to 103!

A warthog and a rattling cisticola were also up and about but we didn’t bother them with our cameras.

The H4-1 turned out to be very busy today.

We stopped at Tshokwane for a picnic breakfast as they are still not offering full service yet. We did, however, order their wonderful coffee. I chatted to someone who told me they had seen lions under a tree next to a dam 20km further north. The Earl was not keen on doing the extra kilometers. They could easily be gone by the time we got there. But I thought there was a good chance they would be settling down there for the day so persuaded him to skip Orpen on our way back in favour of it. After all, up until now the H1-2 had produced good sightings. It might just continue on the H1-3. So he agreed and off we went.

Just a kilometer or two from Tshokwane there is a loop that takes you closer to the river. We spotted a camper van parked along it and decided to check what he’d seen. We took the path a little lower to the one he was on and looked down into the river where there were some elephants.

“He’s not looking at elephants,” I said. “There is nobody in the driver’s seat. They’re all in the van looking through the back window.”

We needed to drive past him or turn around to get back on the main road and were about to do the turn around when the driver came back to his seat and indicated for us to wait. Then when he drove level with us he told the Earl what they’d seen. The Earl did not catch what he said and assumed he’d spotted the wildebeest across the road. But from the excitement on the faces of the children in the vehicle, I thought there must be something else.

Then as we drove by we saw exactly what the dear man had been trying to communicate.

Well, even if we miss the lions further along at least we’d seen this one! The sightings continued to be interesting and we saw lots of zebra, giraffe, impala, warthogs, wildebeest, buffalo and of course elephants

We then came to a dam. No lions but interesting nevertheless.

This dam was 10 km from Tshokwane. “I think there’s another one further on,” I said So we continued and found Kumana Dam! We were indeed in luck. There were only a few cars parked on the side of the road overlooking the water. There were a variety of creatures to be seen.

We also popped off to see the southern most Baobab tree.

Our return trip was just as exciting.

Friday 6 November 2020

At two o’clock this morning the sound of thunder and heavy rain woke us from our slumbers. We lay wide-eyed and afraid that we would be struck by lightning. The chance of that happening, is of course, minimal but when you’re not used to thunder storms and it’s the middle of the night you tend to over-react! Fortunately it was over quickly and we dropped back to sleep and when we awoke to the sound of the birds’ dawn chorus all signs of rain were gone.

At 5 am it was 20 degrees C but it rose to 36 by 10:00 am. We left Skukuza at twenty to six and made our way first to Lower Sabie and then to Crocodile Bridge where we had a picnic breakfast.

On the H4-1 our cousins were only second to the impala to bid us Good Morning

Next up an unusual sight – well for us anyway. What on earth was this great bird doing at the top of the tree? He should have been at Lake Panic, fishing for breakfast.

When vultures are not surfing the thermals or dining on a lion’s kill they decorate the trees of the Kruger National Park.

The crafty leopard has a skill that is the envy of all the other predators. He can climb trees. How he manages this with heavy prey in his mouth is amazing.

So we didn’t see a leopard today but –

Just outside Lower Sabie rest camp is Sunset Dam. Usually it is teaming with activity but with the drought things are not quite so exciting at the moment. However, there is always something to see.

After the entertainment at the dam we popped in at Lower Sabie and had a coffee before making or way to Crocodile Bridge where we took out our picnic breakfast of muesli, banana and yogurt as well as a couple of boiled eggs and of course our coffee. We chatted to two other picnickers who told us they were rather fed up with the south. The Satara area, they assured us, was far more productive. But we don’t mind. Just being in Kruger is enough! Some of the routes have been quiet but something interesting always pops up eventually.

After we were fed and rested we continued and made our way to Mopondo Dam. We were hoping to find lions and wild dog but they were not cooperative at all. We asked some of the creatures we saw where they were but they didn’t have a satisfactory answer.

So we gave up wishing and concentrated on the little things that are always fun.

Crossing a causeway on the way to the dam some aliens came rushing out the water and offered to take us to their leader. In return they wanted some snacks but we told them not to be naughty and to go and find their own food.

When we got to Mopondo Dam there was absolutely nothing to be seen.

“All this lovely water and nothing here,” the Earl stated the obvious. He turned off the engine and we scanned with our binoculars.

And then we heard a truly African call and watched as a fish Eagle flew up, then swoop down and come up with a terrapin (I think) in his claws. Sorry – the photo is really poor.

And then after all this excitement something else dropped out of the sky

Don’t get me wrong, we love to see the Big Five, Lion, Leopard, Rhinoceros, Elephant and Buffalo. But what we enjoy even more are the birds and the other interesting activities of the lesser beings.

Today we were blown away when we watched some bathing beauties.

Oh, sorry – melba finch is the old name. Marigold now has a far more sophisticated title – Green-winged Pytilia. But I prefer Melba Finch – it sounds far more delicious.

When you come across a road block in a game reserve there are no stop/go attendants to let you through.

The clowns of the game reserve are always amusing.

Our day ended at De Laporte Dam where we found Humphrey Heffalump having a shower.

In the evening we went to Kruger Station for dinner. We were joined by our new friends, Har and Chris. What a stunning meal we had. It was the perfect ending to our day.

The question about when the best time to visit is a difficult one to answer. Any time is good. If you are a keen birdwatcher then summer is definitely the best because the migrant birds will be here. If you can’t take extreme heat then rather come between May and August. The days will be warm and dry but the nights will be quite chilly. Summer is the rainy season so it is very green and the grass is high making it a little trickier to see the animals. They are very good at hiding away. We have been at least once during each season and for us, in spite of the heat, we prefer summer. November is great because there are usually lots of baby animals too. It is the beginning of the rainy season and when it rains it cools everything down too.

Today it was clear and sunny with just the odd fluffy white cloud skidding across the sky. At 6 am it was 20 degrees C but by mid-morning it had risen to the hight thirties and even got as high as 40 at Lower Sabie! We cope with the heat because we have air con in the car and also in the caravan!

When I stepped outside the caravan this morning I was greeted by one of the locals.

We left Skukuza at six o’clock and returned at quarter to two. There is little point being out in the heat of the day as the animals and birds are not very active then.

We were really pleased the sun was out as the birds were really active during the first part of our trip. Their tantalising calls had us stopping and seeking and becoming really frustrated when they sang and sang but would not show themselves. Others show themselves but refuse to pose for the blog. Hower, we were happy to enjoy the speckled mousebirds, a green-winged pytilia (Melba Finch), crested francolin and swainson’s francolin before turning off onto the H4-1 at 6:25. These guys did pose for us.

Before long, on the H4-1 we saw a small traffic jam ahead.

We had a total of three lion sightings today but one was so far away it would be embarassing to show the photograph. However, with our binoculars we could clearly see five on a buffalo kill. They were under a tree in the Sabie valley.

The other had such a traffic jam around them that we simply weaved our way through and drove on. There were also five there.

We were far more interested when we came across two vultures on a nest.

At eight o’clock we stopped for a leg-stretch at Nkulu picnic site. It has beautiful views across the river and sometimes the trees hold some surprises.

While looking for another puffback in one of the trees, I spotted a chinspot batis. He pretended to pose but just as I clicked he flew off and hid behind the foliage. I am sure he went off to tell his friends all about this crazy women chasing him with a camera.

The call of the fish eagle always gives me a thrill and we heard one several times. We saw a few of them too but none of the photos are worthy of being displayed here. I am sure the perfect one will present itself soon.

We continued our journey to Lower Sabie rest camp and came across a hyaena. He was pulling at some carrion but took off in the direction opposite than that in which we were travelling. I didn’t think it worth snapping his bottom through a dusty back window.

Instead I’ll show the cute grey duiker that did not run away.

My favourite animal, the giraffe, never disappoints. He is a natural model and always poses beautifully.

Before entering the camp we stopped briefly at the famous Sunset Dam where we saw our first hippos and crocodiles of the trip.

A big treat for us was seeing both the male and female Diederick’s cuckoo

Lower Sabie’s Mug and Bean restaurant overlooks the river and we found a table with a good enough view. I don’t usually like the Mug and Bean or Bug and Mean as I call it but this one is actually quite good. We enjoyed scrambled eggs, bacon and tomato and an excellent cup of coffee.

It was 10:45 and very hot when we started our return journey so there was not much bird or animal activity. Even so we had some interesting encounters.

When we got back to Skukuza, we went to the shop to get some R5 coins for the laundry. I also bought a new sarong as I had forgotten to pack one.

We are camped closest to ablution, laundry and camp kitchen number 6. Unfortunately Laundry 6 has lost its machines and so I had to go to number 7 which is a bit further away – at the tented camp to be exact. The machines take two new R5 coins. The dryer also needs two R5 coins. I don’t think R20 for a load of washing is too extravagant. Within an hour and a half it was all done a dusted. While it was in progress I edited my photos.The Earl had a nap while I did laundry etc, when he awoke we went to the pool for a swim and the decided to go there to Kruger Station for dinner.

Yesterday we discovered that the SD card in the Earl’s camera had gone Awol. The park shops do not stock them. Also missing in action was our caravan step-up. We only realised this when we set up camp at our overnight stop, Heins. When we shopped at Pick n Pay yesterday we tried to find one without success. There were also one or two other things that we could do without but would be make life more pleasant so we decided to trek back to Malelane and try the larger Super Spa shopping center where there were more shops to choose from

We left around 6:30ish and the overcast weather turned to quite heavy rain along the way. At first there was not much to see along the H1-1 and H3 roads to Malelane Gate. Of course we greeted the odd group of impala but the wildebeest seemed to have gone on vacation. Here are a few critters that did turn up.

As we passed Afsaal picnic site we reminisced about the leopard we’d seen in 2012 when our grandkids were with us. This leopard is quite often seen along the H3 around Afsaal. About 10 minutes later we saw three cars stopped up ahead.

“Now what can they have spotted,” I wondered. “Giraffe, wildebeest, elephant?”

No something far more exciting.

Shortly after this we arrived at Malelane Gate, got our re-entry permit and made our way to town. The rain had let up a bit and by the time we’d finished our shopping it had stopped altogether.

Within the hour we’d got an SD card from a pharmacy, purchased some foodstuffs and ice bricks from Spa, bought a pair of shoes for the Earl and found an inexpensive, plastic, foldable step-up from the Crazy Store! “You’re the best shop ever,” I told the assistant. “We’ve tried everywhere and you’re the only place that knows what we’re even talking about!”

So with everything on the list accomplished we popped over to Wimpy for breakfast and then made our way back to the park.

The temperature rose to from 20 to 27 by the time we reached Berg-en-Dal. We went to reception to make slight changes to our bookings and to see what damage had been done to the restaurant after a recent fire. There was a temporary office as they are busy doing renovations. The restaurant is still closed but the shop is fully functioning. They have an outdoor coffee station where you can order light meals and sit at picnic tables if you so desire.

We then took the Majulu loop to the dam.

En route to Afsaal picnic site you can turn down a dirt road to Renosterpan and then drive back again. It’s about 4km each way. “Should we do it?” asked the Earl. “We might not see anything.”

“But then again we might miss something if we don’t!” I replied. Renoster is the Afrikaans word of rhino and as it turned out it was a fitting name indeed.

From Afsaal we made our way back, spotted more elephants, buffalo and other creatures but these were the most interesting.

Altogether it was a most enjoyable day.

Yesterday we arrived at Heins Farm Resort at about 3:30 pm. It is situated right on the N11 just outside Ermelo so is a convenient overnight stay on the way to KNP. There are cabins and camping sites which are very neat but the ablutions could do with an upgrade. The kitchen facilities are also very basic but we enjoyed our stay there. There is no restaurant but they do have a hall with a bar where you can go for sundowners. They also cater for functions and when we arrived they were preparing for a 21st birthday party.

It was a tad chilly from 4 pm onwards and when we woke this morning it was raining. We left at 5:30 am and at times drove through mist but when we got to Malelane it had cleared up although it was still overcast. We had a Wimpy breakfast and shopped at Pick ‘n Pay before entering at Malelane Gate just after 10.

Check in involved sanitising, having temperatures taken and filling in a Covid form at an outside desk before going into reception. It all went quickly and efficiently and within 20 minutes we were driving towards Skukuza. What joy to be in my favourite place in the world again.

There was still a way to go to Skukza. As we were towing a caravan we stuck to the tar roads and did not take any loops or diversions. It limits you from getting the best viewing as you can’t stop suddenly or reverse into a better position so we try to get to camp as quickly as possible so we can unhitch and get settled and then devote attention to seeking the wildlife.

We always try to guess what our first sighting will be – usually it’s impala but today the Earl called out – warthog! And there on the side of the road was a mother with tiny piglets. However, they were not interested in posing for Adventures into Retirement! Other creatures I wished to feature were a little reluctant too but I wouldn’t take no for an answer.

As we approached Kwagga Waterhole we saw an Egyptian geese and were going to just drive on when the Earl said, “Elephant approaching” and there in the distance a whole troop, with trunks in the air came lolloping down for a drink.

We arrived at Skukuza at about 12:30 and check in went very smoothly. The campsite was quite full but we found a suitable site and within the hour we were nicely set up for our eight-night stay here.

Last year the pathway to the ablutions had potholes but we were delighted to see that these have been fixed. The ablutions are clean and functioning well too.

There was a chorus of bird song once we’d settled down for a refreshing drink and some were polite enough to sit still and greet us.

Later in the afternoon we took a short drive to Lake Panic Hide. There was a sign on the gate indicating that no more than 10 people were allowed in at a time. And sure enough the benches had huge crosses on the sections that were to kept bum free! The lake has suffered due to drought and the activity which is usually very lively and exciting has dwindled considerably. We didn’t even see the weavers who are usually very active at their nests which overhang the water. After three quarters of an hour we had enjoyed all that was there.

There was also a fish eagle and a few jacanas about but they were too far away to photograph. The hippos were conspicuous by their absence.

At Heins yesterday we met another two caravanners who are also now at Skukuza and while our dinner was cooking we invited them to join us for sundowners. Although the day had been cool with temperature not rising above 24 degrees C, the evening was still quite warm. After a lovely chat our friends left and we enjoyed the Romosca Chicken which was done to perfection. And now as I write I can hear the laughter of hyaena. What a privilege to be here and to hear the sounds of the bush at night. A bad day in Kruger beats a good day at home every time.

After leaving Camdeboo we travelled through the Eastern Cape to Kokstad in Kwa-Zulu Natal and spent two nights with our rural family.

Caravanners and campers, I know will want more details about the Camdeboo Rest Camp. Apologies for the lack of photographs of our site but we went to town for dinner so I did not get round to taking a photo around the fire! Each site has its own wooden picnic table and of course a braai.

As I mentioned before the ablutions are spotless but the pressure in the shower is not very strong. Remember, this is a drought stricken province.

The camp kitchen has two wash up basins, a microwave and a freezer for the use of campers.

There is no shop or restaurant at Camdeboo.

We must have brought some of our abundant rain from the Western Cape as when we awoke on Thursday morning, we heard the pitter patter of rain drops on the caravan windows. As we travelled, the showers were light and it was still quite warm, but the further we went the lower the temperature became and thunder and lightening accompanied the rain.

We stopped at Kai Kai in Steynsburg for breakfast. In the days of travel with our kids and grandkids this was our usual stop as there is little other option along the route to Kokstad. It is a B&B which offers breakfast to those hungry travellers passing through as well.

The R56 is well maintained and we did not have to play dodge the potholes but the odd cow and goat gave us a few scares. This route also takes you through a number of rural towns which are busy with traffic and rural people dashing across the street. Miraculously nobody seems to get run over.

We refueled in Maclear. The Earl was suffering from an attack of gout so I asked the attendant to direct me to the nearest pharmacist. Luckily it was just across the street. I became one of the car dodging predestinations and was pleasantly surprised to find no queues and a very pleasant assistant behind the counter. He knew just the remedy for my ailing husband’s malady – one Milan Diclofenac taken with two no-name white pills – something from the witch doctor? Cost – R48 and they worked beautifully.

It started raining as we approached Matatiele and stormed all the way to Kokstad. The thunder and lightening was scary for these two Capies⚡️🌨

It was a joy to catch up with the Kokstad Clan. Although our nephew and nieces were busy with work and other commitments they popped in to visit and gave us a warm and happy welcome.

Ann’s kids Caitlyn and James saw the caravan arriving from their farm which overlooks the one we stayed at and immediately hopped on their little motor bikes and rode down to Granny’s to greet us,

This morning we left in inclement weather. The road between Kokstad and Howick was a nightmare. We played dodge the potholes while struggling through mist and rain. It is also beyond my comprehension how drivers can travel without their headlights on. The reckless driving, speeding and overtaking on solid white lines with no regard to their own and other road users safety is also baffling.

Our breakfast stop in Howick was The Wimpy. It was at a mall so parking the caravan was easy. When travelling we often choose Wimpy as their breakfasts are lovely and inexpensive. The coffee is not half bad either ☕️ and it comes with a delicious cinnamon biscuit/cookie.

I am writing this post on my I-pad as we travel to Heins Farm Resort in Ermelo where we will spend the night. Tomorrow we enter The Park. Watch this space😄

We were packed up and ready to go by 7:00 am this morning. The weather was warm and became hotter as we drove through the dry Karoo.

Our first stop was for breakfast in Oudtshoorn where we also refueled. We have of course travelled through this town before but the restaurant we wanted to go to was according to Google closed as a result of Covid! Using Trip Adviser as a guide we followed the directions to another not knowing whether we would be able to park the caravan easily so when I spotted Brule Cafe, I told Earl to stop as there was a double parking available just beyond it.

It was a good choice. During these pandemic times there are protocols you have to stick to. Wear your mask, sanitise, have your temperature taken and enter your details on a form. We’re so into it now that it’s done automatically.

The next part of our journey went smoothly and we arrived at Camdeboo just after one o’clock. Once again we had to go through all the protocols. We were given a code to enter at the gate but a helpful attendant did it for us and gave us perfect directions to the campsite. Each site is very private, hedged off with thorn trees. There is not much shade but this is to be expected in the Karoo! As we’re here for just one night we did not set up the canopy but we did unhitch as we wanted to go on a game drive. It was hot!

The first thing I did was check out the ablutions. Our campsite – 12 – is next door the the ablution block and camp kitchen. Everything is pristine. Only two people at a time are allowed to use the facilities. There is sanitiser on tap and we really had no complaints about anything.

We went for a drive just after three and were really impressed with what we saw. This is not a Big 5 game reserve. The only thing that disappointed us was not seeing the surricates – but hey – we’ve seen them before and we’ll see them again! We saw everything else on offer.

We returned to camp around five and I went to have a shower and get ready for dinner. As we’re only here for one night we decided to eat in town. The main gate of the park remains open till 10 pm as they do not have a shop or a restaurant.

A few years ago we stayed overnight in town with two of our daughters and two grandsons. Our restaurant of choice was Pioneers. I’d forgotten the name but on browsing through Trip Advisor I recognised it immediately . It had been good then and it did not disappoint this time either. The manageress came to check that all was well and was very friendly.

The menu is varied and I chose Keto calamari which came with a generous helping of vegetables and a salad! The Earl had curried offel and samp (Samp is an African food consisting of dried corn kernels that have been stamped and chopped until broken, but not as finely ground as mealie(corn)-meal or mielie (corn) rice). He has never actually eaten it before but thought it was about time he did!

Much to the Earl’s delight, a cute cat appeared and made friends with him.

We could not lie in late this morning as the sun rises early and the weather is perfect. It is, however, still quite cool in the evenings – well to South Africans it’s cool. If you come from cooler climes you might think it’s just perfect.

After our morning coffee we took to the warm waters and then went to the restaurant for breakfast which we had on the deck. The Earl had an omelette which was deliciou and I had scrambled eggs, bacon and tomato – just superb.

The day was spent walking around the campsite, watching the birds, swimming and just relaxing. I know that the campers and caravanners reading my blog want to know exactly what the facilities are like so I took a few photographs. Also here is a link to Warmwaterberg

There are lovely walks you can take around the camp if you are feeling energetic. We have done the 7km one into the mountains in the past but did not do so this time. It was enough to take a few short walks around the camps and to watch the birds that enjoy the succulents and other indigenous plants that grow abundantly

Once again we had dinner at the restaurant. The Earl had the ribs and I had the lasagne. The views across the valley – priceless!