Category Archives: Travel

Share Your World – 28 January 2019

 

Here are my answers to this week’s Share Your World from Sparks

QUESTIONS:

Are you thin or thick skinned?   Are you easily offended or tend to let it just roll off your back like a duck does with water?  

At my age I have learned to become thick-skinned.   I seldom take offence to what people say to or about me.  I simply find it annoying – it’s nobody’s business how I choose to live my life, so their uninvited opinion no matter how well-intentioned should be kept to themselves.

How important are morals in a healthy society? What are the most important morals for citizens to have?  (Credit to Rory for this question)

Morals are very important but then what’s moral to me might not be the same to you.  As long as the way you live your life does not cause harm to others it’s up to you to set your own set of values.  For me these things are important: Tolerance, Politeness, Honesty, Kindness.  I also believe if you know someone’s story you find it easier to understand why they are as they are.  Don’t judge! Just love unconditionally.

What will your epitaph be?

I doubt that I will have one but if I do it should be something like –

Here lies Digi-Gran – She made it to the future and embraced modern technology with enthusiasm.

Or

Here lies the healthiest corpse in the cemetery. She died in the middle of a yoga pose, in the middle of the African bush or swimming in the sea!

(I don’t admire either/or questions much, which is why you won’t see ‘em often.  Today is an exception)  French toast, pancakes or waffles?

Well, I don’t actually often eat any of the above.  I know it’s a particularly American thing to do pancakes/waffles/French toast for breakfast.   Here in South Africa we would have pancakes or waffles for dessert.  French toast we might have at breakfast time but maybe only in a restaurant .  I haven’t had French toast in years. If I must choose – then it would be pancakes – with cinnamon and sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice.  Waffles topped with ice cream and syrup is also a treat.

What were you grateful for this past week?

I am grateful for the best husband in the world.  We’ve been together in wedded bliss for 32 years plus four years before that, raised three daughters and have four of the most incredible grandchildren.  I am hugely grateful that we have a fantastic relationship with them all.  It’s  very special that our teen and young adult grandkids still want to spend time with us old fogies.   What a joy!

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 27 – Twee Rivieren

22 November 2018

Today is my birthday and just being here in the bush is the best gift I could ask for.  However, I  make a short list of what I would like to see today and at the top is Cheetah! The Kgalagadi usually shows us wonderful cheetah sightings but this time we’ve seen only a single sleepy one under a tree!   I really want the Mools to see them at their glorious best.  Pat even put in a request when saying Grace last night.  Will her prayer receive a positive answer???

The Mools greet  me with a big happy birthday and a gift of a new Kgalagadi Map Book! – It will be much treasured!

First up and always amazing to see is The Martial Eagle – then a den of the cutest Cape  Foxes. 

Enjoying the early morning sun
Should I come out of my hole?
Isn’t she the cutest!

Then we watch two springbok locking horns in a friendly battle of strength

These two entertained us when they decided to lock horns and tussle

We find the wild cat at the same spot as yesterday and point her out to others who stop to ask what we’re staring at.  We manage to get good shots of her and the kitten

There are no lion at Kij Kij today but we stop for coffee and to watch the sandgrouse, sparrows, quelea and finches flying from trees to water hole – always fascinating.

And a jackal comes down to drink

From there we drive to Melkvlei where The Earl cooks us a delicious birthday breakfast on the Skottel.

Pat poured some water in a plastic lid and the birds drank thirstily

After breakfast we take the Dune Road.

Korhaans love this habitat
Typical Kgalagadi Dune

 Once on the Mata Mata Road we stop to see birds and animals. We find Ostriches.  The babies are having a delightful sand bath.

Then it all happens.   Between Rooibrak and Kamqua bore holes, lying lazily under a tree we find two young cheetah! My birthday wish comes true! Patricia’s prayer is answered.

Happy Birthday, Helen
We were expecting you!
Is that a springbok I spy?
Let’s go get him!
 Come on – before he sees us!

We thoroughly enjoy a birthday treat of note! The cheetah interact with each other then they spot a springbok and get up and go for the chase – but they’re spotted and lose their lunch.  We think they’ll go off somewhere else now –but no, they return to the same tree, giving us more wonderful views of their beautiful selves.   I am in heaven!

Oh well – maybe next time – let’s go back to the shade
Stop sniffing – Keep up!
Okay – I’m coming!

There are only two other cars and we have nobody blocking our view – just awesome.

Thank you for being a friend
Goodbye, Cheetahs – You made my day!

It’s a long way back to Twee Rivieren and we’re on a high all the way home.  We stop to enjoy other creatures but the Cheetah are definitely the highlight.  A wonderful way to end an amazing month’s trip! Tomorrow we start making our way home!

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 26 – Twee Rivieren

21 November 2018

What an awesome day we had today.  There were more gemsbok, springbok and wildebeest about and jackals were going busily about their business. 

We were on the road just after 5:30 and by quarter to six we had a lovely male lion at the Samevloeiing water hole.   He was just lying there lazily set to sleep for the rest of the day.

This waterhole is fed by three boreholes drilled in 1913, 1984 and 1987 respectively. Samevloeiing means flow together – thus confluence.

I intend staying here all day – please don’t disturb my nap.
And when we visited later in the day – this is what we found!

More excitingly we found three lions right next to the road at Kij Kij Waterhole.   They were finishing off a meal of springbok and we got some lovely shots. 

Kij Kij was the first borehole driled in the Nossob River in 1913. The farm, Kij Kij was private property at the time.  It means – big big or The Biggest.

Then all of a sudden they got up and marched off.  All the spectators got into gear and followed them.  We enjoyed them walking, play fighting and interacting for the next 20 minutes.  It was great fun.

There was very little going on for a while but then we heard a jackal howling.  Stop, I said, There’s a reason why he’s making a fuss – there’s a predator nearby!  We looked all around and couldn’t see anything.  The jackal was looking up toward a hill and Earl followed his gaze and then said – It’s an African Wild Cat. He snapped a photo and then pointed it out to us. 

African Wild Cat

Wow! It was as clear as anything through our binoculars.   Another car was wondering what we were looking at and was amazed when we went up next to them and told them where to look.  It was an awesome sighting!

It strongly resembles Pussy at home –  but note the striped legs – and don’t try to pet her – she’s truly wild!

Those were the two highlights of the day.  We also enjoyed the birds tortoises and ground squirrels and a cute little mouse.

Black-shouldered kite
Lanner Falcon
Pririt Batis
Ant-eating chat
This ground squirrel was in our camp!
Very Cute

It’s all about being in the bush and experiencing the colours of the Kalahari, the changes in weather, the huge sky and the awesomeness of being away from normal town life!

The colours of the Kgalagadi

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 25 – Nossob to Twee Rivieren

20 November 2018

Moving Day today!   We were up by 5 and on the road by 6:25.  The Mools made stops at all the waterholes while The Earl and I went on as quickly as possible with the caravan.  As most of the waterholes don’t require negotiating, we managed to get some good sightings along the way. There were three lions at the waterhole on Kaspersdraai.  There were quite a few cars so we pulled in and quickly took photos before moving on so as not to block the view for  everyone else.

Kasper Sanderson had a residence here during the tsamma melon season.  He also dug a well here.  Kaspersdraai means Kasper’s Turn.

An hour later we had another lion sighting of 2 males and a female at Kameelsleep  waterhole.  A sad meaning to this name – kameel(perd) is a giraffe sleep means drag. It was here that the last migrating giraffe was shot by the Sandersons and dragged by donkeys to  neighbouring Bechuanaland.   Giraffe have now been reintroduced to The Kgalagadi. 

We had a brief pit stop at Dikbaardkolk  picnic site. Dikbaard means bushy beard and kolk means pool.   Dikbaard is a colloquial term for lion. So it means Lion Pool.

Our next stop was for for breakfast at Melkvlei which is a big un-fenced site with tables and benches on both sides of the road.  “Which spot do you want?” asked the Earl – I picked one on the opposite side of the road to the toilets.  “Are you sure?” He asked.  “Yes!”  I said and when he pulled in what should I see in the tree but a Spotted Eagle-Owl!  “This is definitely the right spot,” I said!  A little later I noticed there was a juvenile on a branch and the mom was keeping a careful eye on it.

Melk means milk vlei means small depression which collects water in the rainy season.  It is so named because of the white chalk banks of the river. We have indeed seen this picnic site flooded after heavy rains.

Mother Spotted Eagle Owl
Baby Spotted Eagle Owl

We arrived at Twee Rivieren at half past 11 and set up quickly.   The Mools arrived two hours later. We went out again at 4 o’clock and had another lion sighting at leeudril. Leeu means lion dril means shiver. So it means here a man’s legs shook with fear when he encountered a lion on the other side of the dune!

Having a lovely nap

We also saw springbok, tortoise, birds, ground squirrels and suricates but no cheetah and no leopard!

A Lovely Herd of Springbok
Ground squirrels
Surricate on guard
Suricate tails!
Leopard Tortoise

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 24 – Nossob

19 November 2018

Nossob to Rooikop to Marie se Gat to Kaspersdraai and back

Another early start today and out the gate by 06:06. The Earl complained that we were late!  We should have been out by 5:30 – now we’ll miss the lions and cheetahs.  But all was not lost.  Why are these cars parked at the water hole looking at nothing – he said.  We turned in and there they were!  

Two Lions coming to drink

We watched them drink and play and then walk off together. What an awesome sighting – they spotted a springbok and went into hunting mode.  But it was far off and gone before they could give chase.   We watched them till they melted into the veld. A few minutes earlier or later and we would have missed them

We continued to Marie se gat.  Marie was married to one of the men responsible for drilling the boreholes.  His name was Henry Brink.   Imagine being Marie – living like a squatter in the wilds of Africa.  Life was tough but when the man on whom you depend fails to perform his duties and no money is coming in, you turn to desperate measures. Henry began to drink excessively and his job became the last thing he paid attention to so Marie simply drilled the borehole herself so that they could survive!  Hooray for pioneering women like Marie!

At her famous Gat (bore hole) we watched quelea and Cape Sparrow

We continued to Kaspersdraai waterhole where clouds of quelea, finches and Namaquadove were being pursued by a lanner.  Then we made our way back spotting a Martial Eagle on the way

Martial Eagle
A Red-necked falcon also posed beautifully for us

Half way between Kaspers and Marie’s we saw a car stopped and asked the Australians within what they were looking at.  “A sleeping cheetah – hasn’t moved for half an hour – we may give up and go back for breakfast!”   We found a suitable spot – saw the cheetah lift her head and flick her tail and stayed to see if she did anything more while we had a cup of coffee.  She didn’t stir – but it was still a lovely sighting as thus far no other cheetahs had made an appearance!

Back home I did some washing while The Earl cooked brekkie and then we watched the birds and mongooses round the camp.

Yellow mongooses in camp

Afternoon drive – Nossob to Cubitje Quap and Kwang and back

On the way we found a spotted eagle-owl in a tree

Parents with juvenile

At Kwang Water Hole we found lion!

The male was on the side of the road
The females were under the trees near the water hole

There were some vultures there too.

Lapet-faced vultures
Lapet-faced and white-backed vultures

We left the creatures in peace and drove on for a while.  When we came back they were more active.

Starting to wake up
Then a female flopped down next to him
She was a bit more wakeful
He decided to stretch and yawn
And gave us an authoritative stare
We thought they might hunt but clearly it was too early for dinner and they flopped down again

On our return drive we found that there were two owls in the tree.  

The one we saw on the way there
And this one spreading his wings

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 21 – Mata Mata

16 November, 2018

It’s Lauren’s birthday today – she turns 47!   Where did the time go?  

We left camp at 05:30 but as we know our daughter rises early for school we sent her a message promising to phone in the evening when she’d have time to chat.

We drove all the way to Twee Rivieren and back today.  The Earl needed to have a good phone and internet connection in order to get hold of Ford in Upington to arrange for a new back windscreen.  The result was that all was organised for 23 November when we would be making our way back home. So we could relax and enjoy the rest of our holiday.

It took the whole day to drive there and back, of course with many stops to view game.  

The first fun thing we saw were springbok pronking just for the fun of it.   They looked like they were just doing their morning exercise and thoroughly enjoying being alive.  Perhaps they were celebrating missing the lions claws last night!

We had seen flying bateleurs but today we saw two perched at the top of a tree. 

Mr and Mrs Bateleur

There were also a number of vultures around.

White-backed Vulture

Just past Viertiende Boorgat (Fourteenth Bore Hole) at 7 in the morning we found a den of Cape Foxes.  How cute to observe the babies learning to dig and find their own food.  

Catching some early morning rays
Digging for something
What did you find?
Mum keeps a careful eye on the puppies
Ever so cute

At Dertiende Boorgat (Thirteenth Bore Hole) we watched the little quelea,sparrows, finches and doves swarm down to the water and up again into the trees while a lanner falcon flew over. They are expert bird catchers but didn’t try their luck this morning.

Hundreds of turtle doves
Swallow-tailed bee-eater also made an appearance

We stopped at Kamqua Picnic site at quarter to ten and had a cereal and boiled egg    breakfast.

Each waterhole we stopped at had one or two creatures of interest but not like the herds and herds we saw in Etosha. 

Just before Montrose we oohed over a brand new baby springbok suckling his mother.

At Montrose a jackal took a drink and a little further on another was scavenging on a kill left by cheetahs we were told.

Much better the next day isn’t it 
Ground squirrels are always around 
This Kori  Bustard is trying to attract a mate

We almost missed an immature martial eagle on a log on the ground.  Pat called – Ooohh what was that?  The Earl screeched to a halt and rapidly reversed. He was quite content to let us stare at him and take some photos.

It was midday when we got to Twee Rivieren.  There is a restaurant there but it was closed. However there was a small patio with a kiosk that sold snacks and drinks so we sat there while The Earl tried to sort out the windscreen.  We also did some shopping at the park shop. 

After a snack and ice cream we made our way back to Mata Mata.  As we drew up to Leeudril we spotted two Fords.

Two stationary Ford Rangers – What have they seen? wondered the occupants of the Ford Everest






I see you – Do you see me?

What luck –  9 lions were lazing in the shade.   They were all awake but sluggish and about to nap. Their tummies were really very full.

Full and ready for a nap
I’m so sleepy, Mom
I wander what those canned people are staring at?

The rest of the afternoon produced some birding and a few of the usual animals but no cheetah nor a leopard!

Secretary Bird
Spotted Thick-knee with baby
Thick-knee on nest – just a scrape in the ground
Shikra

We got back to camp after 6 pm and after some cold drinks went to the pool for a refreshing swim.  Then I cooked savoury mince and rice for dinner.   Dessert was our favourite – Amarula and condensed milk shooters.

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 20 – Mata Mata

Thursday 15 November 2018

We made a late start this morning.  Earl managed to get some plastic sheeting from one of the staff at the park shop and he and Tony did a good job of sorting out the lack of a back window.

Our Camp at Mata Mata

We had an excellent “Earlie” breakfast of scrambled eggs, tomato, bacon and banana and then set off for a game drive at half past nine.

The Hide overlooking a Water Hole

Peter Derichs had produced a series of guides to various game reserves in South Africa called Peter’s Guides.  The snippets of information I have given on the names and places in the Kgalagadi come from such a reference –  Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – by Peter Derichs”   

Kgalagadi means ‘salt pans’.  It is part of a 89000 square kilometers sand field which has a red colour caused by a thin layer of iron oxide on the sand grains. 

The park has two rivers – the Nossob and the Aub which are mainly dry and only flow when there are heavy rains.  There are many years between flooding and the average annual rainfall is 200 mm.  To meet the water needs of the animals, over 86 water points have been provided. These were previously powered by windmills but now most are solar powered.

Today we followed the Auob riverbed road  and checked out each of the waterholes until we reached the Kamqua picnic site where we had lunch and then drove back again.

The Aub River is part of an ancient drainage system and runs in a southerly direction until it joins the Nossob River near Twee Rivieren Camp.  There are 18 water points in the river.

A Swallow-tailed bee-eater in full song
Secretary bird
Male Ostrich seeking shade

Chat fly-catcher
The animals really rely on  camel thorn trees during the heat of the day

The quality of the water at Craig Lockhart bore hole is good.  Craig means rock and Lockhart is a person’s name. It is derived from the French word Loche meaning a fresh water fish.  It is assumed that Lockhart was a name given to a fresh water fisherman.

Craig Lockhart is a good place to spot birds. We spotted a black-breasted snake eagle.  He did not seem to want to pose for his portrait but I managed to get a reasonable shot.

Black-breasted snake-eagle trying to hide
Namaqua dove
Red-headed finch

The Gemsbok were enjoying a drink until theu saw the bullies arrive.

When the wildebeest show up the other buck make way

The Gemsbok allow the bullies to drink until they all scatter  when predators arrive

—  Even though these ones are much smaller than the  grazers they are treated with wary respect
Did you know that giraffe sometimes sit down!

Dertiende en Viertiende Boorgat (thirteenth and fourteenth bore hole) were originally known as Kleinskrij and Grootskrij – small and big diarrhoea.  This is because when a surveyor named Jackson camped there his oxen ate tsamma melon and drank the poor quality water which gave them diarrhoea!

Hopefully the tawny will not get an attack of the runs!
A rather grumpy looking wildebeest

Kamqua like all the picnic sites in the park is not fenced so one must be on the lookout for wild animals when getting out of the car.  Fortunately I have never seen any animals passing through while I’ve been there but cheetah are often in the vicinity.   Kamqua means green pothole.

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure Day 18 and 19 – Windhoek to Mata Mata

13 November – Windhoek

Sadly we had to leave Etosa National Park today. It has been the most awesome visit ever and we are full of all the amazing sightings we have had in the 10 days we’ve been here.
Today we headed to Windhoek and once again checked into AnJo Villa.   We had a long afternoon’s rest and then went to do some shopping before having dinner at Jo’s Beer house.

14 November – Mata Mata

We had an early breakfast at AnJo’s and were fueled and on the road by 7:45.  It was a 6 hour drive to Mata Mata border post and we only stopped for fuel and then a brief snack break on the side of the road.

The last 250 km was on a gravel road.  Our Everest has new tyres with tread meant for rough roads and we were going well on the excellent road.  A few stones were kicked up by the tyres and I hoped that the front windscreen would not get any nicks.   Suddenly we heard a loud bang –like a rifle shot.

What was that – I yelled

In a dead calm voice the Earl replied,  “The back windscreen just shattered.  A stone must have thrown, bounced off the caravan and smashed it.”

He didn’t even stop, saying that there was nothing we could do till we got to Mata Mata.

Our smashed back windscreen

It was to say the least a little nerve wracking as the glass kept caving into the back of the car and stones flew in and landed right up front!  It happened at 2 pm and we arrived at the border post at 3.  We were checked through by the Namibian Border Control and then just had the car checked by officials on the SA side at Mata Mata.

We set up camp and then dealt with the shattered glass.   It was a mission to get all the glass cleared away.   We did not put up the sides of our canopy so Earl used one of them  to cover the hole where the windscreen was for the night
Pat and I spent a short time in the hide overlooking the waterhole and saw some jackal, surricates, ground squirrel and birds.  


Then we went to prepare supper. Just as we started there was a stir and Earl went to investigate.  Just three lions, he reported back, so we dashed for cameras and binoculars, left everything and dashed to the fence.  What an amazing start to our Kgalalagadi visit.

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 17 – Okaukuejo

12 November 2018

Today we first went to the waterhole then had breakfast in camp.  We were out by 8:15 and had a lovely morning.

First of all our birding was most rewarding 

Crimson-breasted shrike – National Bird of Namibia

 

Sabota Lark
Purple Roller

Then we went past Gemsbok vlakte and on to Olifantsbad. 

On the side of the road we found this broken-horned steenbok

Spot his wife over the road

There is a picnic spot and long-drop near Olifantsbad and I wanted to have a pit stop there before going to the waterhole but The Earl wanted to check it out first.   If nothing is there he tends to resist waiting a while before leaving.  I wanted to have coffee and a snack in the car at the waterhole, giving us time to sit and wait for the creatures to arrive!

I was quite cross that he wouldn’t listen to me – – – but not for long. As soon as we came in sight of the water hole I spotted them – A whole tribe of ellies drinking.  And that’s not all – there was a variety of other game too.  It was awesome.

Spot the Red Hartebeest Baby following his mommy.

 

Still wobbly on his legs

We spent over an hour watching and photographing.

Then we went past Gemsbokvlakte again and enjoyed another half hour watching all the plains animals drinking. 

A mom and dad ostrich were standing in the sun with wings spread to shade their chicks – It was so sweet.

Are you guys okay?
It’s cool and shady here, thanks Mom and Dad

Namibia and Kgalagadi Adventure – Day 16 – Okaukuejo

11 November 2018

Today was overcast and we had a few drops of rain but the wind died down.  We made our way to Sprookwoud some way away but did not have very good sightings. The animals are clearly closer to the camp.

We stopped at a picnic site for breakfast and found dozens of thirsty sociable weavers.  We poured water into the empty bird bath and they stormed it with gusto. A bul bul tried to join them but they would have none of it.   Then a little goshawk swooped on them and they scattered in fright. Suddenly I heard a splat and couldn’t see through my right eye! I removed my glasses and found that a frightened bird had crapped on them!

Everybody thought it was very funny!

Back at camp we went to the Waterhole and saw a lovely collection of game.

We went out again in the afternoon but saw very little.

Northern Korhaan – female

Sabota Lark
Quite an effort just to get a drink

Zebra and Gemsbok
Approaching the water hole
Elephant and springbok enjoying a drink toether
Typical Etosha scene
Greater Kestrel