When you were a child, did you have your friends round for tea even if it wasn’t your birthday? Were you invited to stay to tea at a friend’s house?
In South Africa school was over by 2:15 pm in the afternoon and if you didn’t have sport or some other extramural you went straight home. And yes our home was constantly full of our friends and ‘tea’ was not a formal meal. We would maybe make ourselves a sandwich or if Mom had baked we’d have a slice of cake. Today kids have play dates – we just played with whoever was available.
What was your first job in adult life?
I trained to be a primary school teacher for three years and then did a special diploma to assist children with speech and hearing difficulties. So for five years I went around to school taking groups of children with speech problems and corrected their lisps and stutters etc. After that, my teaching career included teaching at a school for the deaf (very briefly) having my own nursery school, and teaching every grade from 1 to 7. I also taught computer skills to adults when I was not classroom teaching. I have never had a job that did not involve teaching.
Do you enjoy shopping (food, clothes, gifts etc)
I am lucky enough to have a husband who will do the food shopping as long as I give him a list. However, I prefer to go with him when it’s more than a few items needed. Now that I’m retired shopping is not as much of a chore as it used to be as I am not fighting time.
I don’t like shopping for the sake of it but do enjoy looking around if I need something. Men and women have different shopping styles. Men know what they want go to the shop, get it, and leave. Women like to browse so it’s best not to take a man when you want to browse!
What was the best bargain you ever got?
We bought a Bosch gas stove/oven on a special for half price @ R6000 – brand new. The special was only available at our local store. We compared what it would have cost at another branch – R12000. We’ve had it for three years and it has been amazing.
Gratitude: It costs nothing to smile and say thank you, yet to the recipient, it can mean the world.
I have found the above to be so true. Everybody likes to know they are appreciated and when you express this to them they will be forever willing to help you again in the future.
I know them by name. The neighbours on the left are semi-permanent meaning they are here erratically sometimes for weeks and sometimes just days. He works off-shore and she has business interests in Cape Town. We usually have a meal together if they’re in residence. On the other side, we have a friendly couple and their only child who is now about eight years old. When he was a pre-schooler he would pop over to visit us from time to time but not so much anymore. (Now he only comes to fetch the cats – see below.)
We have spoken to most of the neighbours around us and are on friendly terms with them. Most are weekenders or here for holidays only.
Do you notice changes in your neighbourhood : ie. new car, new dog, home improvements, etc.
I don’t but my hubby is more aware. Of course, major changes are noticeable and I did see solar panels going up next door.
We had no choice but to notice that our neighbours on the right had new cats as these beautiful Siamese popped over the wall to introduce themselves to us. They are curious creatures and come right into the house and as we no longer keep pets we are really enjoying their visits.
Alan and Mike the Siamese Cats coming over the fence to visit us
I have met complete strangers in our town who say they know exactly who I am because they see me walking! So others are more observant than I am!
A man I always greet at the end of our road often comments that he hasn’t seen us and asks where we have been. (We’re often off caravanning or visiting kids in Cape Town or Plettenberg Bay) When I tell him, he says he wishes he had enough money to travel as much as we do! Choices, dear man, choices!
Should new neighbours move in next door, do you introduce yourself once they are settled in?
When we were the new neighbours nobody came to introduce themselves and as our movements were quite erratic for a year we did not bother to introduce ourselves either. Also, most, at that stage, were temporary and seldom in residence.
When we got new neighbours on the left we introduced ourselves. The ones on the right introduced themselves, warned us that they would be doing renovations and brought us chocolate! We like those neighbours.
Have you ever had to complain to your neighbours?
No. We are not the complaining type. Dogs barking, sounds of lawnmowers, children laughing and playing etc. do not bother us at all.
Gratitude: Be the best you can be, no one can ask more of you than that.
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I certainly hope that I am the best I can be. What’s more important is to look for the best in others. We all have a good and bad side.
Yes and No. I don’t like change when something I was using perfectly well – like my birding app – gets updated and then I have to learn how to use it all over again. However, I usually find the changes are for the better and I get used to them and start to enjoy the new app.
I also enjoy new experiences and try to say yes to new opportunities when they present themselves. Live in the moment – tomorrow may never come!
When I was younger change was great and I embraced all the technological changes with great keenness. Now that I’m older I’m not as excited about change as it takes me longer to wrap my head around new techniques. The problem is that things are changing so quickly. In my lifetime I have gone from party line telephone to video calls, from no television to Netflix and from standing in queues at the bank, within certain hours only, to instant online banking at all hours. And the world is continuing to change at an alarming rate. So I’d better like change. I can’t stop it and I can’t choose when to check out of this planet!
Can you remember the last time you had to use an operator service?
I would have put a long-distance call through via an operator many years ago.
What is the best and worst ‘hold’ music you have had to listen to?
I get irritated with any hold music but I can’t say I have a worst or best. The school I taught at used to play the school song – which I thought was a cute idea.
Do you find numerous ‘options’ annoying when connected to an automated service?
Not really – what I do find annoying is being passed on to somebody who can’t help me.
Gratitude: Beauty surrounds us, but sometimes we are too preoccupied to notice.
The above is something I can go on about all day! We really need to stop worrying about all the little irritations of the day. There is so much around us to take pleasure in. At the moment, in my neck of the woods, the spring flowers are everywhere and they are quite breathtakingly beautiful.
How do you get on with your in-laws/partner’s family?
I have been with my husband for 40 years. We had both been married before and took on each other’s kids and families. On the whole, we all get on pretty well. We also keep in touch with my husband’s late wife’s family and my relationship with them all is excellent.
This just about describes us when we were raising kids – always an extra one or two in tow.
What is the nicest thing anyone has ever said to you?
We helped our daughter raise her two sons and the nicest thing I’ve ever heard from anybody was when my grandson said, “Gran – I’ve had an awesome childhood!”
What was your favourite ride/stall at a fun fair?
The best ride I ever went on was at EuroDisney when I was forty years old. It was a Star Wars Space kind of ride. I almost believed we’d blasted into outer space and were fighting aliens!
Would you like to be a child growing up in today’s world?
Life is very different now but I do believe that we’re built for our own time. Kids today will be fine because they’ll adapt to what is required to live in this century.
The pleasantest thing ever a child can do (Robert Louis Stevenson)
I on the other hand am grateful for being privileged enough to have experienced rapid changes. My childhood was free and happy and uncluttered by adult supervision. In my thirties, I started to grow with the changing technology and computers changed my life for the better. I feel as if I have been a time traveller going from the good old days to the extraordinary future. Air travel was not as easy when I was a kid. Now stepping on a jet plane is like stepping on a bus! I’ve gone from party line to cell phone, expensive long-distance calls with a delay to video calls that cost nothing. What a privilege to have arrived in the future.
Gratitude:
Everyone is entitled to a bad day in life, just don’t let it run into a week.
The above is so true. My life is certainly somebody else’s fairytale. A positive attitude is very important. I can’t bear negativity.
Our homeward journey turned out to be amazing. Once again we started the day with below-zero temperatures but it was sunny and clear and temperatures rose to 27 degrees C. We travelled three really stunning mountain passes the first of which was Meiringspoort This pass starts at Klaarstroom in the north and ends at De Rust where we stopped for breakfast. Meiringspoort cuts 25 km through a gorge in the Swartberg Mountains, crosses the same river twenty-five times, and is the link between the Great and Little Karoo. The Swartberg has beautifully exposed fold mountains and the rock formations are spectacular. The Swartberg is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The meaning of the name De Rust is The Rest and the original purpose of establishing this village was to provide a resting place for the early settlers who had travelled through the challenging Swartberg gorge. It is still a very restful place and there are a few lovely coffee shops to choose from if you need to have a break on your journey,
We found parking for the two caravans right outside the first coffee shop we came to. The breakfast was excellent and the proprietor was very welcoming and friendly.
The next pass we travelled was the Huis River Pass which crosses Route 62. The name huis comes from a Khoikhoi word meaning willow.
As we travelled we passed field after field of beautiful spring veld flowers. It was almost as good as Namaqualand.
Huis River PassJust before Barrydale
When we got to Barrydale the Earl needed a break to stretch his legs and get a drink. Alec carried on as Cath was not feeling well and he wanted to get her home as soon as possible.
We stopped at Diesel and Creme for Very Berry Milkshakes
Next came Tradouw Pass which is 16km long and cuts through the Langeberg Mountains linking Barrydale and Swellendam. It was built by Thomas Bain and the meaning of Tradouw comes from the Khoi word for Women’s Pass. Roadworks on this pass were being completed so there were no road lines yet. The road is really looking good,
Finally, we arrived home in beautiful Struisbaai at 16h00. Our friend Sonja brought us a delicious supper of grilled chicken breast and vegetable bake which saved us from having to cook after unpacking,
So ends another wonderful caravanning adventure with our friends Cath and Alec. Thanks to them for making this such a great trip. Cath is not well at the moment and we are just grateful that it was at the end and not the beginning of our trip that the ‘flu got to her. Speedy recovery, dear Cath.
This morning we left Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and made our way to Prieska where we would spend the night.
A Forked Tailed Drongo bids us farewell
The Kalahari is the traditional home of the Koisan and there are still a few who follow this traditional lifestyle. As we made our way we saw a few Koisan on the side of the road
Waving us on our way
We arrived at Gariep Country Lodge Caravan Park at around 2 p.m., settled in, and then went to find a place to have a snack. A lovely coffee shop served us a quiche and toasted sandwiches.
Prieska Coffee Shop
In the evening we went to the lodge next door to our campsite and had a delicious supper there.
Saturday 26 August 2023 Prieska to Karoo National Park
The next leg of our journey took us to Karoo National Park near Beaufort West. We stopped for breakfast at The Old Mill Coffee Shop in Britstown. We have been there before and we always enjoyed the quaint decor.
There was plenty of parking for the caravans
Unfortunately, the owner of the establishment was not there this time. She had left just one staff member to do the serving and the cooking. Consequently, we had quite a long wait and as it was very cold at that hour the coffee and the food were served at a temperature that was a little too cool.
Old Mill Coffee Shop
Previously the service and food were a lot better but nevertheless, it is still a lovely place to stop if ever you are in the area.
Travelling from Prieska to Karoo National Park was quite pleasant with roads in pristine condition and the views were lovely.
We are always complaining about the trucks on the road and bemoaning the fact that the railways are non-functional. So imagine our surprise and joy when we spotted a working train!
It was still chilly when we arrived at Karoo National Park and it did not warm up at all today.
The first creatures to greet us – Red HartebeestThe Mountain Zebras looked at us with curiosityGood afternoon to you too!
When we arrived at the campsite we spotted another Gecko. It was number 31 – Bill and Monica who were on their way to Namaqualand after visiting Mountain Zebra. On their way back to KZN they will visit Addo.
As it was the weekend and Karoo National Park had a promotion the campsite was quite full. We found two spots next to each other opposite Bill and Monica so we were in good company.
This caravan park is pristine and the facilities are first-class. We’d decided that as we were low on supplies we would have our dinners at the restaurant and the food there was excellent. We recommend the Lamb Potjie which is served with delicious vegetables and your choice of chips, rice, wedges, or mash.
Sunday 27 August 2023 Karoo Nationa Park
It was below zero when we awoke this morning but unlike yesterday it warmed up beautifully. During the night Earl and I heard the lions roaring but when we went in search of them this morning we were not in luck. However, Alec and Cathy spotted a lovely male.
We were delighted with the sightings we did have, especially as far as birds were concerned.
An Ostrich with red legs means he is in the mood for love
Spring had arrived in the Karoo and the beauty of the veld reminded me of a song, Lentelidjie, by C Louis Leipoldt, that I learned as a child.
Here are the first few lines:-
Al die veld is vrolik
Al die voeltjies sing
Al die kriekies kriek daarbuite
Elke sprinkhaan spring.
Loosely translated this means that all the veld is cheerful, all the birds are singing, all the crickets are chirping and the grasshoppers are hopping.
Basically, the poem/song goes on to describe the beauty of spring.
The spring flowers really made the veld look cheerful. I have no idea what the names of the flowers are – except for the daisies!
Beautiful veld flowers
The birds were certainly singing and showing themselves beautifully.
I think this is a Karoo Chat – Please correct me if I’m wrong.A Southern Fiscal – Note this one does not have an eyestripe like those in KgalagadiKaroo Long-billed Lark?White-backed MousebirdCape BuntingOn a small pond, we found this female Shelduck
And then there were the mammals.
A cute female Steenbok wondered what we were staring at.The baboons were nervous of people which is a good thing!
We did a long morning drive and then a very short one in the afternoon just in case the lions appeared. They did not but we had some lovely last-minute sightings.
A Beautiful male KuduElandKlipspringer
The cherry on the top was finding a bird that we have not often seen.
Ground Woodpecker
The mountain views in this park were spectacular.
It was certainly a good idea to end our trip at Karoo National Park.
Wednesday 23 August 2023 Mata Mata to Twee Rivieren
We made a slow start to the day as temperatures were once again below zero until 07h00. Our caravans were packed, hitched and ready to go by 08h30 and we took a slow drive to Twee Rivieren via the waterholes. The Earl and I left a little earlier than Cath and Alec, promising to wait for them at Craig Lockhart.
Sitzas Waterhole
We spotted another honey badger. As usual, he was on a mission but there were no parasitic creatures following him this time.
Ricky off in search of prey. Perhaps his followers were still asleep
We saw some cars parked off at Craig Lockhart which is normal as you have to turn off to get close to the waterhole and people usually wait to see if anything might appear. We were going to do the same while we waited for Alec and Cathy to catch up. And then I saw her – taking a long deep drink so we could not see her face.
Thirst quenched, she looked up and stared at the spectators.When’s your due date, Leonie?Any day now, I’m enjoying me-time while I can
She started to walk off and I was afraid that Cath and Alec would miss her but by the time she reached the road they appeared and had a very good view of her as she crossed in front of them.
The next waterhole presented us with a couple of jackal
Dalkeith is Welsh for Field in the Woods. Kamqua means Green Pothole and I found it amusing that there were indeed gemsbok drinking here just like the illustration on the sign.
There were lots of suricates enjoying the morning sun too.
Too cute
We stopped at Aucherlone for a loo break and leg stretch and while we were there somebody asked if we’d seen the lions. It turned out that this was because we hadn’t reached the spot yet and luckily were going in the right direction. He told me exactly where to look. “There are three of them and they’re sleeping,” he said. “So you could miss them if they’re lying flat.”
We didn’t miss themThis guy had just eaten and hadn’t washed his faceIt was a good meal – magie vol ogies toe. (Tummy full Eyes closed)
A little further on we found the ostrich kill the lions had made. Of course, the vulutres were there – some white-backed and a lapet-faced.
When we arrived at Twee Rivieren we checked into two bungalows and found that there was plenty of space to park the caravans. Once we were settled we went to the restaurant for lunch. The food there is excellent. We relaxed for the rest of the afternoon and in the evening Cathy cooked us a delicious beef stew.
Our bungalows were quite comfortable. The base rate for each is for two but they have two extra beds in the kitchen. The front door opens into the well-equipped kitchen and then there is a door into the bedroom which has an en-suite bathroom. All the beds are single.
To be honest, I prefer my caravan as it has everything I need and I don’t have to unpack
Thursday 24 August 2023 Our Last Day at Kgalagadi
Today would be our last day in Kgalagadi. It was three against one to leave two days earlier than planned. Yes, it was me who wanted to stay the duration but as I am not a driver I did not object. The corrugated roads can be a trial and we had had the most amazing time and seen almost everything the park has to offer so it was good to leave on a high note. And leave on a high note we did!
This is what we saw on our last day.
Beautiful tawny eagles
Cheetahs are quite a common site in the Kgalagadi but we had yet to see one. Today, he appeared to say farewell.
I spotted him firstNot sure who or what he is looking forThen he flopped down
I wanted to stay with him for a bit longer. “He might come down to the road,” I reasoned.
But the Earl is not one to wait for action and insisted on driving on.
A lovely rock kestrel cheered me up.A rather smart socialbe weaver nestTwo Pale Chanting Goshawks hoping the honey badger will disturb some mice for them to pounce uponI have been searching for a Pygmy Falcon since we arrived and finally he made an appearance.
It was our turn to cook this evening and we made a lamb stew.
Cathy will soon guest post about Mata Mata. Watch this space.
My next posts will cover the places we visited on our journey home.
It was freezing last night and freezing when we awoke this morning. Cathy, Alec, Earl and I were packed and ready to leave Nossob by 08h15. The Twins still had some packing to do and they followed at a slower pace, stopping to see game, while we, the caravanners tried to get to Mata Mata as quickly as possible so that we could find good campsites.
Alec set the pace and we tried as best we could to keep up but other cars got between us and were driving below the limit of 50 kph so we got a little behind. We caught up at Dikbaardskolk picnic site where we had a leg stretch and loo break. Then it was 50km over the beautiful dune road. This road is undulating and there is a sign that recommends that you take care and keep well to the left. This is because as you go uphill you cannot see what is approaching in the opposite direction.
The start of the Dune RoadUndulating road
We kept pace with Alec until Earl slowed and stopped.
“Look – a honey badger!” he exclaimed.
How he spotted him I do not know. He was on my side of the road but behind some dune bush and with him was a jackal. Mostly you see honey badgers on their own but sometimes in pairs. Often, though, you might see a jackal and/or a pale chanting goshawk with him. The wily jackal knows that if he sticks with the badger, he might get a free meal. The badger digs up mouseholes causing the occupants to run for their lives. I’m sure the badger gets first pickings but the jackal might get lucky too.
We spent at least ten minutes with these creatures and got some lovely video footage of the badger digging with the jackal looking on hoping he would find them a meal soon.
Ricky Ratel hiding behind the dune bushJacko Jackal knows that Ricky can dig up some prey for himCome on Ricky – Get to workGive me a break – I first have to pose for the tourists.
We hoped we had not got too far behind Alec but could not resist stopping to photograph a few birds making us as least 20 minutes behind him.
Ant-eating ChatGreater KestrelBlack-necked HeronOstriches decorating the bright orange dunes
When we arrived at the picnic site for breakfast Alec was about to unhitch and come to look for us!
Kamqua Picnic Site with its dead Camel Thorn Trees. Kamqua means Green Pothole in the Khoisan Language
After breakfast, we still had another 50 km to go and this time we kept pace with Alec and Cath. There was one little delay for both of us when we came upon a lion sighting. We saw a sleeping female and a male a little further away feeding on a carcass. Alec was ahead and Cath managed to get some photos. I tried as we overtook the other observing cars but was hooted at for blocking everyone’s view. It would only have taken a few seconds, but The Earl did not want to annoy the tourists, so he hurried on! (See Cathy’s upcoming post.)
En Route, we came across some Red Hartebeest
We arrived at camp at about 13h00, checked in and found two lovely campsites near each other but not right next door. The sites were not on the perimeter, but we could see the water hole and it was just a short walk to the hide.
We did not go out for an afternoon drive but decided to sort out the caravans, do laundry and visit the hide.
A single giraffe came down to drink
Her calf who is probably still nursing did not drink but waited patiently for mom then walked off with her.
The Twins arrived at half past three after having some lovely sightings including a leopard! Priscilla was responsible for the meal tonight and cooked us a delicious tagliatelle with cheese and ham sauce.
Camp all set up and ready for Priscilla’s dinner
Monday 21 August 20, 2023
Today the twins packed up and were ready to leave on the first leg of their trip to Pretoria where they will be visiting their brother, and sister-in-law who is not well. We travelled in tandem and visited the waterhole loops before bidding them farewell after Dertiende Watergat.
A little while ago there was a veld fire in the area and this seems to have affected the sightings. Nevertheless, we had some interesting experiences.
Near Sitzas waterhole we found a wild cat dozing under a tree Sitzas means ‘water with a bad taste.’A beautiful yellow-billed hornbill made an appearanceThe cutest creatures in the Kgalagadi, the ground squirrels looked stunning in the golden lightDalkeith presented us with a kudu and some gemsbokSome lovely horns hereCraig Lockhart Waterhole provided some liquid refreshment for the nervous gemsbok
The surname Lockhart originates from the old French word ‘loche’ which describes a freshwater fish. It is believed that Lockhart was a nickname for a freshwater fisherman. (I obtained this information from Peter Derich’s book – Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Self Drive Guide.)
They really are sissies to be frightened off by a crow!The giraffe must already have slaked their thirst and were just hanging aroundA forest of oryx horns
After bidding the twins farewell we continued slowly to Kamqua picnic site where we had coffee and a snack and then made our way back to camp.
The next day was a rest day.
Tuesday 22 August 20, 2023
Everybody felt a little tired of the corrugated roads so we decided to have a rest day today. We stayed in camp and relaxed reading, birding around camp and checking the waterhole from time to time.
Early activity at the waterhole. Depend upon it – you will see jackal everywhereJacko dug himself a cosy hole to sleep in If there’s nothing else there will be sparrowsThe prettiest bird in camp is the Crimson-breasted Shrike
A family of Meerkats have made a burrow near the entrance to the camp waterhole. They leave to forage in the reserve when it warms up and then come back later in the afternoon.
Catching the morning rays before going off to forageThis evening they thought they’d pay us a visitI was preparing food so I think they were expecting an invitation to dinner.This one invited himself into my caravan!“Sorry, you’re not invited, ” I said so this one went to sulk under my chair.
After some discussion, we decided to swap our last two days of camping at Mata Mata and try to get sites at Twee Rivieren. Unfortunately, camping was full so we opted for 2 chalets instead.
We left Twee Rivieren, having packed up and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. There was no mad rush to get to Nossob as we had booked Premium Campsites so there was to need to try and get there quickly to find a good site in the main camp.
We had decided that we would drive to Dikbaardskolk Picnic Site and stop there to have a leg stretch and visit the bathroom. We arrived first and when Earl and Helen drove in we noticed that the right rear tyre on Earl’s Everest was flat. He tried pumping it up in the hopes that it was a slow puncture and he could make it to Nossob before having to change the wheel. The ground at Dikbaardskolk is not very flat, so changing a wheel would not be easy. Earl was not in luck! Within a few minutes the tyre was once again flat so it was a definite puncture. He drove the Everest to the flattest piece of ground we could see and he and Alec set about changing the wheel, supervised by dozens of Sociable Weavers and Starlings. A job accomplished in a short time!
Earl and Helen arrive at the picnic site
Earl and Alec start changing the tyre
We arrived at Nossob and were allocated Premium Sites 3 & 4. What a pleasure these sites are. There is a fantastic bathroom with a loo, wash basin and a huge shower with lashings of hot water. Outside is a dishwashing basin and loads of counter space to prepare a meal on. They are all close to the fence and are very quiet.
Premium Site #4 at Nossob
Our view from the campsite
One morning, Earl and Helen had left for their drive and I was brushing my teeth, when Alec came in to say I must come quickly as there was a Brown Hyena outside the fence. Well, I have never rinsed and dried so quickly, as a Brown Hyena is a rare sighting! There he was slowly walking along the fence. I only got the quickest of snaps as I didn’t have my glasses on so I pointed and prayed!
My “point and pray” pic of the brown hyena before it vanished behind Earl and Helen’s van
If you get the chance to book a Premium Site at Nossob, you will not be sorry. They are quite exceptional.
We spent quite a lot of time enjoying the hide at Nossob, which has a number of animals come to drink. Of particular note was the lovely herd of kudu that came down. These graceful animals with beautiful large, liquid eyes, radar-dish ears and long, beautiful legs are a pleasure to watch. The bulls with their spiral horns and stunning stripes are regal as they step across the dry river bed.
A beautiful herd of kudu come to drink.
Just look at this beautiful face
Regal spiral-horned bulls
Also at the hide, we were lucky enough to enjoy the visit of a majestic Martial Eagle. This enormous raptor, the largest in South Africa, stood in the water surveying all the smaller birds that were too nervous to join it at the water. With its speckled chest, dark back, crested head, huge beak and piercing eyes, this bird is truly something to behold.
A majestic Martial Eagle
Piercing eyes and a formidable beak
Compare the size of the eagle to the canary
Another fascinating bird that visited the waterhole was the Namaqua Sandgrouse. These beautiful birds are the sports cars of the bush veld. The males will fly long distances to find water and when they do they wade in chest-deep and allow fine feathers on their breasts to absorb water like a sponge. They then fly at close to 60kph back to their nests where the chicks drink the water by combing the feathers with their beaks. This is truly nature at its best!
Namaqua Sandgrouse
Namaqua Sandgrouse whirr in to collect water
We were at Nossob for five nights so we took several drives both north and south from the camp. The road to the north was very corrugated but there were a couple of lovely viewpoints and only one water hole seemed to have water in it. The southern drive was easier and there were many waterholes from which to choose when looking for somewhere to enjoy a cup of coffee and a cookie.
Lovely views from viewpoints
We found it great to sit at a waterhole, either in the morning with our coffee and cookies or in the late afternoon with a drink and just watch and listen. Often there were several of the larger animals drinking and it was interesting watching the behavior of the various creatures. The Springbok were graceful drinkers but rarely moved to the water if there were larger antelope there. They would stand and wait their turn very patiently. The Gemsbok were very skittish and the smallest thing spooked them. Here size and age were the telling factors and the younger, smaller animals were often pushed out of the way by the larger stronger animals. The bullies of the Kgalahadi were the Wildebeest. When they arrived at the water they simply pushed everyone else out of the way! The Jackals ignored everyone and just took care not to be stepped on!
Wildebeest are bullies at the water!
Gemsbok are skittish
Shy Springbok patiently wait their turn
Jackals ignored everyone
When there were no animals at the water, it was great to just sit and listen, especially in the late afternoon. There was the twittering of the sparrows, canaries and other small birds and the doves would come in waves with that distinctive whistling sound from their wings. They often perched in trees nearby and added their soft, melodic cooing to the evening soundtrack. Then the sandgrouse would arrive in their dozens with whirring wings, drink quickly, and within a few seconds with lots of whirring they were off! Crested Lapwings added their distinctive cries as they ran with stilt-like legs around the edge of the pan searching for insects. As the sun started to set, the Barking Geckos would add their voices and in the distance, one could hear a jackal howling. Nature’s soundtrack is something else altogether.
A beautiful canary
Mossies chitter away all day
The doves stayed to add their soft coo
Crowned Lapwings always let you know they were there
On each drive we found the usual suspects, wildebeest, gemsbok, springbok, ostriches and jackals but there were some lovely birds around as well. We found this beautiful Tawny Eagle on several drives, sitting at the top of a tree staring out over the landscape. There were dozens of Pale Chanting Goshawks that must have kept the rodent population in a constant state of hysteria! We also saw many Kori Bustards, as they too stepped arrogantly through the veld. These are the largest flying birds in the world and they certainly seem to know how great they are!
Gorgeous Tawny Eagle
Pale Chanting Goshawks by the dozen
Majestic Kori Bustard
On one drive we were lucky enough to come across a pair of Bat-Eared Foxes out foraging in the middle of the morning. These beautiful, little creatures eat insects and small invertebrates and are wonderful to watch as they bustle about, smelling the ground to find tasty nibbles. It was a treat sitting watching them forage.
Fabulous Bat-Eared Foxes
Another drive turned up a Spotted Hyena, sloping along having just enjoyed a drink. These much-maligned creatures have gained a small place in my heart since learning more about them and their family units from Wild Earth and Africam. They are not the evil creatures that I was raised to believe but effective hunters, caring mothers, as well as being the garbage collectors of the bush veld.
Spotted Hyena sloping along
Before I close I would just like to get a few peeves off my chest.
The first is toilet paper. I can understand that at Kgalahadi, the picnic sites are few and far between and inevitably someone will get caught short while on a drive. Relieving oneself on the side of the road is one thing but why must you leave the toilet paper festooning the roadside plants? Surely people who visit these parks are nature lovers and should know better than to leave toilet paper in the bush.
The last two are reserved for SanParks.
In this day and age, it is incredible that there is no reliable means of communication within the camps. With the wide array of technology available today it is inconceivable that SanParks cannot provide robust communication in the camps. At Nossob you can indeed buy Wi-Fi vouchers (R75 for 400MB!) but most of the time when we tried to connect, you could sign on to the network but there was no internet access! I know that we all deplore the modern habits of being glued to a smartphone, but people do like to keep in contact with their families and it is frustrating to not be able to contact them. Friends in the camp had a very ill sister-in-law in hospital and they would have loved to know how she was doing but could not get connected to find out.
Lastly, the roads. I am not sure why we pay good money to visit the park and then rattle car and caravan to pieces on corrugations the size of the Fish River Canyon. Is it not possible to keep these roads maintained? Again I know that visitors with incorrect tyre pressures cause some of the problem, but that old excuse had passed its sell-by date. Regular maintenance is vital to keep these roads in good nick, improving the visit for everyone. Come on SanParks, get your act together!
In spite of the irritations, a visit to Nossob is always a treat especially since getting a booking takes luck and has to be made months in advance. We enjoyed our time there and will be back at some time in the future. Now it’s on to Mata Mata for the next leg of our Kgalahadi adventure.
Once again it was very cold when we woke up this morning. I had to put on my gloves, fleece and a jacket. On my feet I donned my Ugg boots! But these outer layers were discarded as the day became warmer with a high of 26 degrees C. There was also a bit of wind today.
After collecting our permit, we took the North road and went as far as Bedinkt Waterhole.
Springbok enjoying the sunshineWildebeest in the early morning light
The birding was good there and back and the highlights were Grey Hornbill, Lilac-breasted Roller and Gabar Goshawk. Of course, we enjoyed the other usual canaries, sparrows, flycatchers and weavers.
Lilac-breasted Roller – always a delight to seeAnother oneLooking the other wayThis little bird of prey is a Gabar GoshawkThis Grey Hornbill surveys the sceneWhile his friend tries to hideChat flycatcher again?
When we reached Cubitjie Quap there were quite a few cars observing the wildebeest and gemsbok. It was interesting to see two large herds of wildebeest coming towards each other from different directions. They seemed to be very pleased to see each other as they greeted each other with low bleating grunts and galloped about side by side enjoying their reunion.
The Wildies having a reunion
One by one the cars pulled off to continue their journey. We were going along slowly with the cars no longer in sight as we stopped to look at one bird after another.
Then suddenly out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a lioness emerge from the veld and cross over the road in front of us. Of course, there was an explosion of excitement in the car. A minute later a very handsome black-maned lion emerged and followed her. She waited for him some 50 metres ahead and we thought that when he caught up, they would continue across the veld.
Looking gorgeous in the golden light, she waits for her mateThere you are! I don’t know why you keep walking away from me!
But they did not move. Another car pulled up behind us just as the male flopped down beside the object of his affection.
This is a lovely spot – Let’s stay here for while
Before we could shut our modest eyes they were mating! We managed to get some photos but now I wanted a video! We’re not moving till they do it again, I declared.
Lion love!
The other car, perhaps wanting to give the honeymoon couple some privacy overtook us and moved on so now we were the only car there. Ten minutes later there was another love scene and this time I got it on film. When they were done the male stood up and roared and the female answered as she lay in the afterglow. Then they both flopped down, turned over on their backs with legs in the air as if to say – Oh my that was wonderful! Lion pornography at its best!
Hear ye all – I have procreated with my mateThat was good, my loveAh – What bliss
We continued on but nothing else quite so exciting happened. By midday, we were back at camp where we had some left-over chili con carne for lunch and then spent time doing camp chores and relaxing and only went for a short drive to Marie se Gat at half past four. There was not very much to see until Priscilla alerted us to something hiding under a tree. How interesting to find a Pale Chanting Goshawk with its dinner.
Pale Chanting Goshawk with a reptileIs it a black mamba? A snake is a snake to me – no idea how to identify them.
We also enjoyed seeing a number of Kori Bustards
A very large herd of springbok were standing stock still and we were sure that there was a predator in the area but we did not have time to wait and see what happened.
It was our turn to cook so Earl did a braai. I cooked some butternut with chutney and tinned tomato and onion in the smart space pan and prepared a Greek salad.
Adventuring into Retirement 