Solitaire and Swakopmund

We left Little Sossuus around 9 in the morning on our way to Solitaire. The road from Sesreim to Solitaire was good, and we could sustain a reasonable speed. While driving along, I glanced in the rearview mirror and saw the number of stones that were being flung out the back from the caravan’s wheels. I remarked to Alec that we would have to fit stone guards to Lizzie if this kept up.

Arriving at Solitaire, we found the fuel station rather busy, but Ray and Alec managed to pull in. While Alec was filling up with fuel, he was approached by a gentleman who had passed us driving a VW Amarok. He told Alec that he had literally been stoned by us. As he got close, the stones flung up by the caravan forced him to pull back! Eventually, he braved the rocks and managed to pass, only to find Ray in front of us, and once again, he got stoned!

Of course, one cannot go to Solitaire and not partake of apple pie and coffee at The Bakery.

After filling up, we parked and made our way to The Bakery, which was humming. Many tourists were already there, but we managed to snag a table. We ordered our apple pie with lashings of cream and coffee and tucked in. Was it the best apple pie I’ve ever tasted? Well, the jury is definitely still out on that!

Finishing our treat, we ploughed on to Swakopmund along the C14. The road surface was still okay, and we went down Guab Pass. What a lovely sight. The high walls at the bottom were imposing. Unfortunately, that was also about the end of the good road surface. Around the Kuiseb Pass, the road took a turn for the worse. It seriously deteriorated, and soon it was a bumpy, rutted mess, and our speed dropped to almost nothing. We were now driving on the left, on the right and in the middle while the car and van bumped around like mad.

I saw many little traveller’s cairns on the side of the road, many just a pile of rocks but some, like this one, had been built with care. What a pity there is no way to know the story behind the cairns.

It was a pleasure to drive onto the lovely smooth road around Walvis Bay and onto Swakopmund. We passed the vlei where there were flamingos, and we promised ourselves that we would return. We arrived safely at Alte Brucke and checked in. Ray and Alvan had gone on to find the place that was to repair their window, so they came in a little after us.

The campsite at Alte Brucke is fantastic, and it was a great pleasure to walk around on grass instead of sand! The individual ablutions were spotless and very well-appointed. Ray and Alvan arrived, and all four of us were exhausted from a difficult day’s travel, so it was just scrambled eggs for supper, an early shower and bed!

Ray and Alvan left early the following day to have their repair done while we took the opportunity to get all our domestic chores sorted. They returned with a Perspex window in their caravan. They could not find anywhere to replace the glass window, but the clear Perspex will do the job until they get home and can replace it with a safety glass window.

That evening we went off to The Fish Deli for supper. What a lovely restaurant. We had grilled fish with chips and salad. Ray had battered fish, and Alvan plumped for battered calamari, served with chips and salad. It was melt-in-the-mouth good! Just as we were paying the bill, a small group of male singers, who called themselves the Swakopmund A Capella Singers, walked in. After a short impromptu concert of the Lion Sleeps Tonight, a local song and an Afrikaans song, they left again after trying to sell a CD they had cut. They were outstanding, and I’m sure they sold a few copies of their CD to the patrons. It was an excellent finish to our supper.

The following day, Ray and Alvan returned to Walvis to see the flamingos, while Alec and I chose to visit the Swakopmund Aquarium. What a treat that was. They have a huge tank containing some of the biggest fish I have ever seen. The Kob were around 1,2 meters long. A fisherman’s dream! There were also Steenbras, Leervis and many other species, including a beautiful Green Turtle and several rays.

We were lucky to get a chance to chat with Frikkie Botes, a marine biologist and also the manager of the aquarium. He told us that the main tank contained over 320,000 litres of water pumped directly from the sea off Swakopmund. The water goes through a filtration system that removes any debris, but it cannot remove the red algae spores, so all over the aquarium, you can see small outbreaks of red algae. These are cleaned off every week by a team of divers.

The only fish in the aquarium are those found in Namibian waters. They collect the fish by various means, and the fish live in the aquarium for the rest of their lives, living a cushy life. They get hand-fed three times a week, which stops the larger fish from predating the smaller ones. The fish are accustomed to the divers and will happily take food from their hands. In this way, the divers ensure that everyone gets a fair share.

Apart from the large tank, with its impressive tunnel, there are many smaller exhibits with tiny fish. There were displays of mullet, sardines, mussels, lobster and many others.

At N$5 per person as an entrance fee, this was one of the highlights of our trip.

Leaving the aquarium, we headed out on the Henties Bay road toward the salt factory. Near the salt factory are many wooden platforms that house thousands of cormorants and other sea birds. These platforms collect guano which is scraped off every few weeks, ground up and bagged as fertilizer. The lines of cormorants stretched as far as the eye could see. The noise was deafening, and the smell was not too good either!

Also enjoying the pools of brackish water were many flamingoes.

We returned to Walvis Bay the following day to find the flamingo colony there. We first tried the lagoon, but the birds were too far away on a breakwater, so we ducked into the Dolphin Café and enjoyed a cup of coffee and a toastie. Yum!

We then went back toward Sandwich Harbour and found the flamingoes in several ponds. They are such fantastic birds, and we sat for a while just watching them bickering, filtering for food, and preening. Each time they opened their wings, you caught sight of the most glorious cerise colours. Such graceful, beautiful birds.

When we arrived back at the camp, Ray dragged out his Cobb Cooker and said we would have roast chicken for supper. I couldn’t help but be skeptical, but what a meal he managed to make in this cooker. The chicken was juicy with crispy skin and literally fell off the bone. That man can cook!

Our last day was spent just enjoying the town. Admiring the beautiful old buildings, many with strong European influence. Our impression of Walvis Bay and Swakopmund is they are both vibrant communities that are expanding at a fantastic rate. There is building happening everywhere. Driving around, one is struck by the apparent love affair between residents of Swakopmund and palm trees. They are everywhere, and many gardens sport one or two as well. Looking across the town, the horizon is dotted with fluffy canopies!

Another thing that struck us was that there was no litter lying around. Many smaller South African towns can take a leaf out of Swakopmund’s book concerning cleanliness.

Our visit to these beautiful towns brought our second week to a close in an incredible way.

We are off to Henties Bay tomorrow and then to Spitzkoppe and Twyfelfontein, so I’m still determining where I’ll find WIFI again. Take care, everyone, and be good.

Sesriem and Sossusvlei

We were sorry to leave At Kronenhof Lodge. Campsite #4 was a wonderful place to stay and we were sad to be packing up for our trip to Sesriem. Before we left, however, we joined the At Kronenhof Lodge Friendship Chain. At the lodge, you get a padlock, and they have a fine Dremel tool that you use to engrave something onto the lock. We engraved our names and Gecko 109. The lock is then placed on the chain and you keep one key, your partner the second and the third is thrown into a pit below the chain. Now your friendship is locked in place. What a great tradition!

Nevertheless, it was time to pack our stuff and be off on the next leg of our adventure. We had been warned by several people that the road from Betta to Sesriem was appalling, and we were concerned about this drive. While at the lodge, Karen advised us to go along the C27 for approximately 40 kilometers until we came to the D827. We were then to take the D827 across to the C19 and then continue on the C19 to Sesriem. Well, what a treat. The road was good and we arrived at our next home, Little Sossus Lodge, in excellent time. This route was a good road all the way.

Little Sossus Lodge camping area is run by a lovely couple who made us feel welcome from the start. There is a nice veranda where you have WIFI, a great pool and the campsites have no trees for shade but there are shelters. A word of advice, ask for a double shelter. These shelters are intended to house two caravans. You will be very close to each other if you put two vans under the shelter, but they work out beautifully for a van and a car. There is no difference in price for a double or single shelter as you pay per person, per night.

We soon had peg-foot Lizzie settled into her new home and a nice cold drink in hand. The view from the campsites is great with a small waterhole, visited by Gemsbok, right in front. What a way to unwind, a comfy chair, shade, a cold drink and a waterhole.

We relaxed all afternoon and enjoyed the serenity of our surroundings, but it was literally the calm before the storm! Later that evening we heard the gentle patter of rain on the roof of the shelter and thought how nice it was to hear the rain. Within a short time, that gentle patter had become a raging storm. The wind was howling and Lizzie took a real pounding from rain and wind. We came through unscathed but a little damp where a side window hadn’t been closed properly. Our hosts told us that they recorded 18mm in about an hour and a half.

Not only was there a storm to contend with but also a pesky jackal that was determined to raid the dustbin in the kitchen area. No amount of nudging on my part brought Alec from Slumberland so when this pesky critter managed to pull the bin over, I had to brave the rain to pick up the rubbish and reseat the bin! The next morning, my beloved hubby just said he was pleased to have married a competent lady! Huh?!

The morning dawned bright and clear, and Alvan and Ray left early for Sossusvlei. They wanted to walk to Dead Vlei so they left Little Sossus to drive the 36km to the gate. Later when we caught up, they said that they had made the walk but there were literally hundreds of people there as well. There were busloads of people so their walk was reminiscent of the crush on a New York sidewalk. Nevertheless, they enjoyed the spectacle and, on their way back, they marveled at the people climbing Dune 45. Madness!

Alec and I chose to rather visit Sesriem Canyon as we didn’t think my arthritis and his injured back would do too well on the 1,2km walk to Dead Vlei.  We climbed down into the canyon and were met with these high walls studded with rocks. Some walls looked like they had been shot up, but the gaps were where the pebbles had succumbed to gravity and fallen out. It’s hard to imagine that this was the only water for miles around and the Dorsland Trekkers had to tie together six straps, made from Gemsbok leather, to drop a bucket and gather water.

We enjoyed our walk along the floor of the canyon but when we reached a place where there was a steep descent over some rocky steps, we turned around and made our way out. The peace and serenity of the canyon was impressive and we thoroughly enjoyed our walk.

On our last evening Ray and Alvan discovered that they had lost the side window of their van. A stone must have been flung up by a passing car and the window had shattered. Gecko owners are creative and an old cardboard box and duct tape made an excellent cover until we get to Swakopmund and can have the window replaced.

Also, on our last evening, we were filling our washing bucket ready for the next day’s trip, when Alec noticed a huge scorpion running around near the tap.  We have a small ultraviolet torch that made him glow beautifully. I was very happy to admire him from a distance, those tiny pincers and fat tail spell trouble!

We have now reached the end of our first week in Namibia. Have we enjoyed ourselves so far? The answer is a resounding yes! The beauty of the Southern Namibian landscapes is fantastic. The colours that mix so well together. The magnificent blue sky that stretches forever, the red dunes, the golden grassy plains, the chocolaty mountains, the bright green tree canopies of the trees that march in almost straight lines along water courses, the pinks and oranges of the sunrises and sunsets, and the silence broken only by bird calls. Magnificent. 

The people we have met have been as great. Everyone, from our hosts at the campsites to the waiters, petrol attendants and everyone else has made us feel 100% welcome. They have been nothing but friendly and helpful.

The only downside has been the dust. Namibian dust is comprised of tenacious little flakes that cling amorously to everything. It has arrived in clouds to welcome us to Namibia! No amount of dusting or slapping has any effect and the only defense is a damp cloth. We are so lucky to have such a robust caravan. No dust has got past the seals. In spite of the dust, we are loving our adventure and look forward to the next week.

Tomorrow we are off to Swakopmund, and I guess a very different kettle of fish! Gone will be the peace and quiet and we will be back in the middle of the bustle of a busy town. Still, it’ll give us time to do a few things (like wash the bedding!) and visit the local sights. 

Till next time, take care!

Are we crazy to spend two weeks in a caravan when we have so many offers to stay with friends or family? Many think we are and simply cannot understand why we do it. They kind of get it when it’s summertime and the weather is good but why on earth do we do it when it’s cold and rainy? Why we choose to leave the comfort of a cosy home with all its conveniences to rough it in a rustic caravan park with an ablution block that could do with an upgrade leaves them astounded.

We have been at Chapman’s Peak Caravan Park for just over a week now and will be here till 1 May. The first few days were idyllic. The sun shone every day and there was no wind, rain or mud to contend with. However, things changed and rain and cold set in for a few days. We had strong winds and branches from the trees fell onto our caravan and car but no damage was done. The ablution block had leaves blow in and muddy footprints were everywhere and the staff certainly couldn’t keep up with the cleaning thereof. But really this did not bother us in the slightest. We visited friends and family for meals and coffee and quite frankly our caravan was warmer and cosier than any home we visited!

There’s a laundry here that has a perfectly good washing machine and dryer so no problem with fresh clean clothes and towels or us. Load shedding means that whether you’re camping or not cooking might be a problem. We have facilities that do not require electricity so should we wish to cook we’re sorted.

“How do you cope with the ablutions?” is a common question. “I simply could not bear to use a public loo or shower,” they declare.

Well, I get that. It is nice to have your own private bathroom and we certainly are used to that in our normal life. But heck it’s not that bad. You shower. You dry off and you get dressed in less than 20 minutes. No big deal! As long as the facilities are reasonably clean I’m perfectly happy. The other benefits of camping make up for the slight inconvenience of sharing facilities.

Life, I believe is all about experiences. Camping gives you different experiences. You meet people from all walks of life and this I find is so rewarding. I met a woman around my age this morning and we got to chatting. She shared with me that her husband was not well but that they were taking a break by coming on a caravanning holiday before his next round of treatment. Later I bumped into a rather frail-looking man who I guessed was her hubby. I greeted him with a cheerful, “Hi how are you?” He replied in song, “Oh what a beautiful morning. Oh, what a beautiful day.” And then paused. I sang back, “I have a beautiful feeling, everything’s going my way” And he grinned broadly. My heart was full and so, I am sure was his. What a positive attitude to life this man has and what an inspiration to others he must be.

During our time here we’ve chatted to others who are staying semi-permanently. One guy works in the townships teaching urban farming – how awesome is that. Another is a safari guide who stays here between trips. He takes groups four by four adventuring into the bush crossing borders to Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and beyond.

Then there’s a little family – Mom, Dad and a four-year-old girl who has the most adorable black puppy who is devoted to her. They are free spirits living quite unconventionally and I’ve seldom seen a happier child. I’m not sure how they make their living and I didn’t ask. They look well and healthy so they’re doing something right.

We certainly do not have to slum it in the caravan while we’re in Cape Town. We can stay with our kids, other relatives or friends. And we do when we come for short stays but when it’s for more than a week we like to have our independence. We can then choose when to visit, go for medical check-ups if necessary, shop for stuff we can’t get back home, and chill at camp when we’ve had enough.

We had a long day of catching up with people today and when we came back to camp, I did the laundry while the Earl cooked us a delicious curry in the Remosco Pot. In all the time we’ve been here this is only the second meal we’ve had in camp. The weather is back to perfect and we sat outdoors and till quite late.

Aus, Luderitz and Duwisib Castle

You may remember, dear readers that we left you last at Canon Roadhouse. Well, we left Canon bright and early and headed for Aus along the C12. The road surface was excellent and we were able to keep up a sustained speed. We reached the tar road to Aus, the B4, in good time and pulled into the first picnic spot to re-inflate our tyres.

While there we noticed a police vehicle, lights flashing, stop next to us. This was the advance warning for an abnormal load grinding its way down the road. The most gigantic transformer was being hauled to Luderitz and we marveled at its size as it slowly rumbled past us.

With tyres good for tar, we set off and Alec informed me that it was my turn to drive, so hubby stretched out in the passenger seat and I started off after Ray and Alvan. Coming up a gentle rise, my heart stopped when I saw the abnormal load stopped literally just over the rise, in the middle of the road. I braked as quickly as I could and as the trailer was slowly moved to one side we were able to squeeze past with one wheel on the tar and the other on the verge. Alec thought that it had problems navigating the corner which was why it was stopped.

When we started out on this trip, we decided to make as few bookings as possible as we thought to make up some of the trip as we went. Well, our first disappointment came when we couldn’t get into Klein Aus Vista campsite at Aus. Still, it was to be expected as we hadn’t booked, but Ray had spoken to the owner of a tiny campsite situated in the middle of the village. We think it was called Aus Guesthouse, and when we drove in we were not at all sure. This tiny place with 4 campsites was opposite the garage and didn’t look at all promising. Well, beggars can’t be choosers, so we both chose sites with some shade and settled in. Surprisingly this wasn’t all bad, it was quiet and the ablution block was sparkling clean. It wasn’t all wine and roses as we discovered that only one shower worked in both ladies and gents but apart from that it was great for a quick stay.

While setting up Lizzy, our Gecko caravan, Alec discovered that we had lost one of the plastic feet on our stabilizers, so he used a block of wood under the stabilizer to act as a foot. Poor Lizzie now had a peg leg, or rather a peg foot. Never mind, she’s made of stern stuff and suffered no ill effects!

Next morning Ray and Alvan visited Kolmanskop, but having lived in Oranjemund for 10 years, we had visited there before, so we chose to make a dash for Luderitz and do a little shopping, before hightailing it out before the wind came up and threw sand in our faces.  Just inside the Namib-Naukluft Park, we ran into the wild horses. We watched the small herd for a while marveling at how little there was to eat but these lovely animals manage to survive in a very hostile environment.

We marveled at these wild horses in the Namib-Naukluft Park

Leaving Aus and our strange little camp, we made for At Krohnenhof Lodge, as I wanted to visit Duwisib Castle. Travelling up the C13 was painless and we travelled smoothly. We then turned onto the D707, so we could enjoy the Tiras Mountains. The start of the road was good, we then hit deep sand, and then some hard bits and finally some loose, grey rocky parts for the last 20 or so kilometers. I promise you the last kilometers tested the strength of my bra straps and the tightness of our fillings!

Along this road we came across a grader doing his best to grade the soft sand. We thought it was a little pointless when we passed him but then when we got to the last kilometers we thought he was really wasted in the soft sand!

Nevertheless, we did stop to admire the view. The scenery was spectacular with the Tiras Mountains a treat. We stopped and the contrasting colours were stunning. A wide blue sky that stretched for miles, red dunes with some green trees at their base, a wide plain of golden grass and then the stunning mountains of browns and greys. The silence was complete and you could feel your soul settling down. What a place!

We did not envy this bike tour that we came across on a bad section of road. Utter madness and I’m not sure what they would have made of the thick sand. I think they would have needed a lot more than what they were riding!

Kronenhof Lodge is magnificent and anyone travelling this way should make a point of staying here. We camped and each campsite is situated far from the others, and has its own ablution block. Sparkling clean and so very well appointed. When we arrived Rozelle du Preeze, wife of Dus and owner of Gecko 34, was there to greet us. She made us feel very welcome and we settled in.

The next morning we set off for Duwisib Castle. I was so looking forward to this but sadly when we arrived we were told that the castle was shut and that it has been that way since 2020. There is a caretaker that may or may not be there and he may or may not let you in! He was away but we were lucky enough to run into the owner of the farm, Jochen Frank-Schultz. He gave us a cup of tea and we sat on his shady veranda chatting for a couple of hours. We chatted about a wide range of subjects and what a fascinating man.

While waiting for our tea, Alec took the time to explain how an old petrol pump worked. This amazing artifact was hanging on the wall. Alec says he remembers using one many, many years ago!

Jochen told us the castle was built by Baron von Wolf in 1908, in response to the Herero/Nama Uprising. It was built as a fort to protect the farmers in the area. It ran as a tourist attraction but in 2020 it was closed. The Frank-Schultz family is negotiating with the Namibian Tourism Ministry to run it on their behalf but have not yet been successful.

Here are some views of Duwisib castle

Just look at the huge blocks of sandstone, hewn by Italian stonemasons about three kilometers from where the castle was built. All the blocks fit so well together, and Jochen told us that the largest blocks are seated on smaller rocks so they did not squash the cement out when they were laid. Jochen was full of fascinating snippets and if you get a chance to chat to him, take it. His small coffee shop is built in the old blacksmith’s workshop so check out the enormous bellows in the roof.

Tomorrow we are off to Sesreim and the next installment in our adventure

Helen’s blog is called Adventures into Retirement and we have set off on a huge adventure to visit many places in Namibia for the next seven weeks. Firstly, I must thank Helen for letting me share her blog as we let you know, when there’s WIFI, how things are going. Saturday 15th was leaving day, and we set off from home, in Napier, for Vanrhyansdorp Caravan Park, which is where we were to meet our travelling companions, Ray and Alvan Mandy from East London.

After a quick breakfast break at Christina’s Restaurant at the Van Louveren Wine Estate, near Robertson, we made our way through Worcester, Wolseley, Gouda, Porterville, Picketberg and up over Piekenikeerspass (please excuse if this is spelled wrong!). Once over the pass, we travelled through citrus orchard after citrus orchard, many under shade cloth, till just after Clan William when the grape vineyards took over. This is such a productive area. Arriving at Vanrhyansdorp Caravan Park, we parked and a few minutes later Ray and Alvan arrived and we caught up on the latest news.

On Sunday, we set off for the border and after a few hours, Alvan’s voice came over the radio, asking if we would like to stop at Springbok for coffee and cake. This is a custom of theirs to enjoy coffee and cake on the morning of their trips. Well, who can say no to such an offer? We duly stopped at the Springbok Café for our treat. Alvan tucked into a gorgeous, gooey chocolate cake and Ray settled for a more sedate carrot cake. With my doctor’s orders about sugar ringing in my ears, we opted for a toasted sandwich!

We sailed through the border with no problems, and yes, we were searched for meat, dairy and poultry – every fridge had to be opened!

After filling up with diesel, at around R2 per liter cheaper than the SA side, we headed for Norotshama Lodge. What a gorgeous place. This working vineyard, on the banks of the Orange River, has a beautifully laid out campsite with loads of stunning big trees.

The ablutions were clean and tidy, but the shower stalls were a little small. This old lady battled to get her clothes on and after a few goes at Twister, I conceded defeat and took everything to the loo next door and got dressed there. Thank heavens I didn’t scar anyone for life as I stumbled half-dressed into the passage!

We opted for dinner in the restaurant and what an excellent meal we had. A tasty lasagna and pizza, enjoyed in a very convivial pub, filled the gaps.

The next morning, we set off for Aussenkar as we had been told there was an excellent Spar there. Well, excellent is a fat word and I guess means different things to different people. Meat is delivered twice a month, so if you hit them just before a delivery is due, the pickings are very slim. Fresh veggies come in on Wednesdays so Monday was a bad day to try and buy fresh produce. Needless to say, we left with very little and as we had brought no fresh food through the border, we have spent time dreaming up things to do with eggs, mushrooms and cheese!

Canon Roadhouse is every bit as eclectic and fascinating as it has ever been. Despite being here several times, we always marvel at the fabulous décor! In the mornings we are visited by the resident cat who diligently searches each campsite for titbits and some cuddles.

Ray and Alvan enjoy their cereal and a visitor!

A much wilder breakfast visitor!

The Fish River Canyon has lived up to every good thing written about it. What a stunning sight. We spent the morning ogling the magnificence of this canyon, while Ray and Alvan, keen birders, took the opportunity to add new birds to their list.

The only downside has been the heat. We didn’t expect it to be this hot now but when we came through the border it was 38∘C and here at the Canyon, it has been around 35∘C. I bless the day we had an aircon fitted to the van – it’s been a lifesaver!

Well, we’ll have to stop here as I need WIFI to send this and Canon has free WIFI. Tomorrow we’re off to Aus, and when I get a chance, I’ll send off the next installment of our 7-week trek around this beautiful, desert land of Namibia.