26 November 2019

We were in bed very early last night and so this morning I awoke at before 05:00!   It gets light at 04:30 and that is when you are allowed out the gate at this time of the year.  However, we seldom make such an early start as the light is still not very conducive to photography.   This morning we left at 06:30.  The temperature was already 24 degrees C and it reached a high of 35 degrees C.

There is a hyaena den not far from Tzendze and it was here that we stopped to see some activity.  Unfortunately, the babies were hidden but we’re sure to see them another day.

This morning we made our way to Shipandani Hide.  To get there you need to cross over a causeway. Well, when we got to the causeway we didn’t bother to go to the hide as all the activity could be seen from our car.  We watched for almost an hour and must have counted at least 10 different bird species coming and going.

 

 

 

 

After we’d had our fill of watching these lovely birds we continued our drive and had more pleasant sightings

 

 

At 10 am we returned and stopped at Mopani for breakfast then back to camp for a few hours.  By 13h50 it was 30 degrees centigrade.  It was just too hot to stay in camp without aircon so we set off for a long drive toward where there is a bridge that crosses the Letaba River.  There was quite a lot of storm damage there.

On our trip there and back we had some good sightings.

 

 

Finally, we reached the river.

 

 

There was not much to see so we turned around and made our way back to camp.

 

 

 

 

 

While walking around our lovely Tsensze, I looked into the trees to see if I could find the Scops Owl and/or Barred Owlet.   I nearly freaked out when I saw this instead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When our camp caretaker, Elena came around to greet us in the evening, we told her about the snake.  She was quite upset because she said that would be the place where the owls had laid eggs.

 

The next morning, she told us that she’s seen the owls at the nest.  They seemed distressed and then flew away and haven’t returned to that tree!  I told her that the Earl had wanted to chase the snake.  She said she was very upset and would have wanted to chase it too but you can’t interfere with nature!

 

 

 

 

 

 

25 November

There is a surprisingly good internet connection at Tsendze so I can catch up with my blog posts.

We left Letaba this morning and got to Mopani Camp at around 8:30.  We had to check in there as Tsendze is a rustic camp with no reception, no shop, no restaurant and no electricity.  However, it is beautifully kept by its caretakers, Elena and Rodgerh. The latter is currently on leave so Elena is holding the fort on her own.

After setting up and having a rest we went out again in the afternoon and had a very pleasant and productive drive.

The thing we enjoy most in Kruger is the birdlife.   After travelling a stretch that had little to offer, I called – Stop!”   “What?” asked the Earl.  I’d seen some little birds but they kept disappearing into the trees or the long grass.   Eventually, he too could see the movement and then I spotted some well-camouflaged but sitting still.

Yellow-billed hornbills are common in the park but sometimes they just beg to be photographed

An antelope that is not so commonly seen is the Tsesbe.   One is more likely to see them in the northern part of the park and today we had a good sighting.

 

We got back to camp at about 17:30.  We started the braai a bit too late this evening. It gets dark at 18:30 and if you put on any lights the bugs will bug you!   So we kept them off and when the food was ready we went inside the caravan to eat!  Otherwise, we would have been eaten.  Tomorrow we will be sure to eat before dark!

 

 

 

24 November 2019

It did not storm last night.  We woke to partly cloudy weather and a temperature of about 24 degrees C.  Because of the road closures, we decided to drive to Olifants Camp this morning.  We left at 6:40 and planned to take the S46 that would follow the river to Olifants but guess what – it was closed. Honestly!   We are sure that this is not necessary.  All the interesting routes in this area are closed!   Surely the roads have dried out by now.  We believe they have just not bothered to check or not bothered to take down the ‘closed’ signs.

So we took the H-5 and were not too disappointed.

When we got to Olifants at around 8:30 Earl went to reception and asked about the road closures.  They told him we could go down the one we wanted to, but to be careful.  So we did the loop and it was awesome.  There was very little road damage and no reason why it should have been closed. We only saw two other cars while we were on this route.

These are the highlights.

On a causeway, we saw these guys swimming furiously towards us.

He looked hungry but we don’t feed aliens.

Next, we found a treeful of birds

 

We returned to Olifants for breakfast and on our return to Letaba we found the S92 open.  The first excitement were the ellies.

Watching a buffalo having a spa treatment is really amusing.

And finally a giraffe

And a Red-crested Korhaan

 

It was really hot by the time we returned at midday, so we had a rest and then went for a swim.

We had an early supper and then took down the canopy and folded away the groundsheet in preparation for tomorrow’s departure.

23 November 2019

There was another thunderstorm last night!   We got very little sleep as it was loud!  Eventually, it stopped and we went back to sleep and only woke up at 8 am.

We decided to stay in camp for the morning as I needed to wash the towels and bed linen as well as some of our clothes.  This meant I would have to do two loads.  The Earl went off the get the required coins for the laundromat and I got the clothes done and hung them on the line. I then put the next load into the machine and we went to have breakfast at the restaurant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When we returned I took the washing out, put it into the dryer as I felt that would be better than hanging bed linen on the line.   I put in the required coins, pushed the start button – nothing!   Another camper came in and I told her what had happened.  She said she was going to iron but there was no electricity!  So what to do.  I called The Earl and he came to check and when he tried to reset the board it exploded into sparks!   Uh oh.  He went to report it to reception and I just took the washing out and hung it on the line.   I had a feeling this was going to be a BIG repair job.  After our drive, I went to reception and they refunded me the R10,00 ($0,50).  The problem had not yet been fixed!   Well, it was Saturday!

Our drive this afternoon was very disappointing.  All the loop roads were closed!

 

This meant we had to stick to the tar roads which don’t give you as much opportunity to get close to the river and the dams.  Also, we’re now in Mopane tree world and it is difficult to find the animals among the trees.

 

We have never had such long periods of driving between sightings.  We weren’t bothered that there were no lions or leopards.  We would just have liked to have had the opportunity to search the more interesting routes, where we were sure we would have found interesting birdlife.   Something interesting usually happens on our drives but today, I’m afraid, was the least exciting day we have ever had in Kruger.

However, as I’ve said before, a bad day in Kruger is better than a good day at home!  And here are the highlights of what we did manage to find!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

22 November 2019

It was moving day today.  We awoke to overcast weather and temperature of 25 degrees.  We packed up camp and left at 07:00

It was lovely to see lots of impala, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest as we travelled the H1-4.  One or two elephants also put in an appearance.

We stopped on the bridge where you are allowed to get out and when we looked back up the road, a very big elephant crossed over.  We also observed marabou and yellow-billed stork in the river bed and a yellow-billed kite was skimming right down low looking for a morsel or two to eat.

Elephant crossing the road just before the bridge

It was my birthday so we took a detour to Olifant’s Camp where there is a fabulous view across the river of the same name and had breakfast there.   It was a perfect setting.  We watched elephants cross over and the food was excellent.

We arrived at Letaba at 11:00 and the temperature had risen to 29 degrees C.  This Bennet’s Woodpecker made an appearance

 

We set up camp, had a rest and then went our again at 15:00 and returned at 17:30 – It must have been the most unproductive drive of any I have ever had in Kruger.  Yet a bad day in Kruger is better than a good day at home!  These are the highlights of our drive.

In the evening, my darling husband took me out to dinner at the restaurant.   It was too dark to see the view but the ambience was lovely on the deck where we sat. We both ordered pies.  I don’t eat pastry but the delicious part was served in individual boat-shaped black pots and topped with the crust, which I just left to the side.

Being my birthday, I had a few phone calls and felt very special with all the birthday messages on WhatsApp, Messenger and Facebook.   Thanks to all my friends and family for all your good wishes.   The Earl had a superb Melba pudding and ice cream for dessert and had a crustless melktert (milk tart) which was almost as good as the one my grandmother used to make!

 

25 November

Apologies for the break in posting. The internet connection is erratic. Might not be able to post for several days but will catch up when I can.

Thanks for reading😊

The Earl had a successful trip to and from Haenitzburg yesterday.   He now knows how to set up the canopy so that it won’t hold water in the next downpour!  (Thank you, Keith!)

Oh, and he saw a lion just as he was leaving Satara.  There were no other cars around. “Why didn’t you take a photograph?”  I asked when he told me.   Of course, he had forgotten to take his camera with him and didn’t think to use his cell phone!  But anyway, he saw it and it was good to know they’re in the area!  

21 November 2019

Our morning began with light drizzle and a temperature of 22 degrees centigrade.  The S100 is famous for good sightings so that is where we started at 07:00. The birdwatching was pretty good but we saw very few mammals.  Our Kruger 2019 list stands at 100 species now. Photography was difficult because of the poor light.

A pair of courting coucals amused us.

 

After the S100 we drove the S41 then the S37 and H6.  It was great to see big herds of zebra, wildebeest and waterbuck on these roads.

We stopped for a break at N’Wanetsi which does not have a restaurant but like all the picnic spots they do provide boiling water on tap so we had a cup of tea and a rusk after taking in the view.

We also visited the Sweeni Dam and saw yellow-billed storks, green-backed herons, blacksmith lapwings and crocodiles.

Later, on the H6,  “What’s this walking toward us? ” asked the Earl.

It was a small four-legged creature and from the distance, I wasn’t sure but guessed it could be a warthog.  But it was not a hog, it was a dog!

A little further on we saw a traffic jam.  Now that could mean only one thing – a predator! Traffic jams are not our favourite way to find animals.  We prefer to be the only car or have just one or two others.  If we can, we try to get a glimpse of the creature and then move away as fast as possible.  But it just was not possible this time.  Jeep jockeys were blocking the way and other vehicles were jostling for position.

“Just go with the flow,” I told my frustrated hubby. “It doesn’t matter if we see it or not.   Just don’t try to push in or past.”  He wanted to get out of there as fast as possible.

And all the fuss was about a cheetah on the move and quite a distance away.  We got good views of him and then the cars started to follow him from the H6 to where he was to come out on the H1-3.   I got lots of photographs but none of them was really any good.

We got back to camp at midday and had leftover Texan steak and salad for lunch, as we had missed breakfast!  By then the skies had cleared and the temperature had risen.   We only went out again after 15:00 and returned at 18:15 which is just before gate closing time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My darling husband is besotted over animals – any animals, both domestic and wild.  He believes they’re just as besotted over him and that they would never hurt him!   This evening while we were getting ready to prepare our evening meal, a hyaena walked right next to the fence that separates our caravan from the wild.  “Oh, how sweet, ” he said and called him with lip-smacking sounds one would use to summon a dog!”

Believe it or not, the creature responded and came right up to the fence to smell his hand!  Obviously, he was looking for a snack.  “No, Earl!  Don’t go too close!” I yelled in terror but still snapped the photograph.

The Earl thought I was overreacting!

To end our day we enjoyed a delicious braai of lamb chops and boerewors served with sweet potatoes, gem squash and of course the compulsory Greek salad.

 

 

 

 

18 November 2019

We were out all day again today. The weather was cool and overcast with temperatures between 21 and 25 degrees C.

There were long stretches of driving where we saw very little and others where we were pleased to see good herds of plains animals as well as birds and one or two predators.  We drove the H4-1, S20, S30, S128 and H4-2.

We were driving quietly along the S128 and were looking forward to breakfast at Lower Sabi.   There were no other cars in sight until we saw one parked up ahead.  He was facing us.  I took my eyes off the bush and kept them on him wondering what he’d seen.   There was a single wildebeest to his left – our right. It was standing dead still, staring into the bush.  “Is it only the wildebeest you’re looking at or is there something else?” asked the Earl.

He explained that he and his wife had watched a lioness stalking the wildebeest but had dropped down into the long grass when the wildebeest saw her.   She was still there and we managed to spot her.

The man went on to tell us that he’d also seen a cheetah on the opposite side of the road and drove on to show us the exact spot.  We reversed no more than 150 meters and there she was!  I’d missed here when I took my eyes off the task at hand!

Now when we looked right, we could see the lion.  When we looked left we observed the cheetah!   This was just too much!   We remained where we were looking left and right while the other chap went back to his original spot to see if the lion would try to chase the wildebeest.

After a while, the lion stood up.

This left us with just the cheetah who sat up straight as soon as she saw the lion move.

“That was awesome,” I told the Earl, “But now hurry to Lower Sabi – I need the loo!”

That was the most exciting part of the day.  At Lower Sabi I wanted to take a walk from the restaurant along the path next to the river but this chap prevented me from passing.

So we left and continued our drive.

 

 

We soon came upon a traffic jam.  “What do you see,” we asked a jeep jockey as we stared into the bush.

“A leopard in that tree!”

Well really!   What was it thinking?

We left the poor creature to sleep and hoped not too many tourists would disturb him.

Before going back to camp we visited Lake Panic and spent an hour there.  We have had many wonderful experiences at this hide.  It was not as awesome as usual today but it was still great to be there.

I was reluctant to leave the hide but the Earl insisted.  We were back in camp by 4:30 pm.

We had a delicious braai of lamb chops and boerewors, sweet potato, gems, whole garlic and salad.

It rained hard during the night!  Oh no – would we have to pack up in the wet in the morning?

 

 

Sunday 17 November 2019

The day started with the temperature being in the low twenties as the skies were overcast.   We left camp at 6:30 after enjoying an early morning cup of coffee and planned to have breakfast at Tshokwane Picnic Site.

The first excitement was on the H4-1 when we saw a row of cars stopped ahead and their occupants looking left.   Oops – a few hyaenas came loping onto the road.   We counted seven in all and followed them as they turned onto the S76. When they disappeared into the bush we continued on our way.

Our route took us next to the river with lots of little crescent turnoffs and on one of these, we spotted a blue-eared starling with a feather in his or her mouth.  He/she was obviously lining the nest.

Later we came across an interesting interaction with two Jacobin Cuckoos

Another interesting bird was a white-browed scrub-robin.  Thanks to De Wet’s Wild for correctly identifying him for me.

Also please help me with this little chap.

My favourite animal has to be the giraffe!  They are so elegant and graceful and always elicit a thrill when I see them on the African landscape

At breakfast time we stopped at Tshokwane a really lovely picnic site in Kruger.   The restaurant is a boma created around a huge tree.

You can, if you wish, cater for yourself at the picnic area but we usually buy breakfast as you can get something to eat for a really good price and the coffee is excellent.

After breakfast, we continued our tour stopping to look at various interesting creatures including this elephant.

Around midday, we stopped to stretch our legs and get an ice cream at Lower Sabi Camp.  After that, we spent a few minutes observing life at Sunset Dam.

The temperatures rose to 35 degrees C today so we did not expect to see too much on our return to Skukuza.

Our most exciting spot of the day was these lazy lions.  As I mentioned, it was hot so they chose a nice shady spot to spend the day doing what lions do best – sleep!

There were other creatures out and about but mostly near the river.

The Earl took some lovely bird photographs

It was quite late when we finally returned to camp and we were hot and tired.  The Earl did not feel like doing a braai so suggested we go to the Skukuza Cattle Baron for dinner.  This was a real treat as the Cattle Baron is expensive but awesome.   Wonderful gourmet food is on offer and the service is superb.  One doesn’t expect to have fine dining in the bush but in colonial times they took their crystal, silver and fine china on safari and had their meals served on a table covered in a white table cloth, so why not now?

We both had chateaubriand served with mash potato, salad and vegetables.

It was a lovely end to an awesome day.