In my previous blog, I mistakenly referred to our meal stop as the Farmers Market at Alzu. The correct name is the Farmer’s Bistro. I also mentioned we were heading to Mopani, when in fact it was Maroela—clearly, I mixed up my trees! These slip-ups have now been corrected in the earlier posts.

From Kopjies to Riverbeds: A Journey Through Kruger
We left Berg-en-Dal early, eager to explore a new corner of the Park—Maroela, a satellite campsite near Orpen. The drive was, once again, a joy. Kruger never disappoints when it comes to wildlife, and this leg of the trip gifted us one of the Park’s most elusive treasures: a pack of wild dogs lounging in a riverbed. These endangered canines are high on every visitor’s wish list, and although we’d hoped to spot the resident pack near Satara, we were lucky enough to encounter them much earlier.

Not long after, we found a young leopard trying to get comfortable in a tree. Choosing the right, smooth branch for a lazy day is very important.

Young leopard doing its best to get comfortable

Our First Glimpse of the Dogs

Wild Dogs in the river bed

Every river has its crocodiles!
Not long after, we came across a pride of lions—albeit far from the road. It always amazes me how some people can spot the faintest flicker of movement or a subtle shape in the distance. One kind soul pointed out a green mound near a cluster of trees, and sure enough, through binoculars, nine lions lay dozing in the sun. I’ll never stop marvelling at the eyesight of seasoned bush-goers!

Lions Lazing in the sunshine

One young male keeps watch

A Pitstop at Satara
By midday, we reached the Orpen turnoff and decided to pop into Satara for lunch and fuel. A delicious chicken salad at the Cattle Baron hit the spot, and with a full tank, we made our way to Maroela.

Along the way, we were lucky to encounter another rarity at Kruger, the Southern Ground Hornbill. In fact, we saw these magnificent birds a few times. Did you know that these birds are the largest hornbill in the world and one of the heaviest flying birds in South Africa?

A Gorgeous Ground Hornbill

Another prime viewing was watching this young Bataleur play in a puddle! This daft young bird hopped around, sipped a little, and thought about bathing. It fluffed its feathers, dipped down, and then hopped away again.  It went through this performance a few times before tiring of the game and moving off. What a pleasure to see a young animal just enjoying itself.

A young Bataleur playing in a puddle

Maroela: Quiet Charm by the River
After the bustling energy of Satara, Maroela was a breath of fresh air. Small, quiet, and reminiscent of Tsendze, it offered a peaceful retreat. The gate system is self-managed, and many sites overlook the river—dry at the time, but still frequented by elephants and giraffe.
The ablutions, though a bit dated, were spotless. And the showers? Miraculously well-behaved! No rogue spray patterns—just a steady stream of water where it was meant to go. We quickly settled into a lovely site and headed out for our first drive.
The veld around Maroela looked tired, a clear sign of the dry season’s end. Still, the area was alive with elephants, giraffe, impala, kudu, and more. We’ve never been the type to chase only the big cats. There’s so much beauty in the quieter creatures, and we find endless joy in watching them go about their day.

Everyone waiting to drink from the last pool of water

So many beautiful giraffes

A roadblock you don’t argue with

Side-eye from a Hippo

Zebra drink at Nsemani Dam

Rain and Reflection
On our last night at Maroela, the heavens opened. Rain at last! I swear the bush sighed in relief. Thankfully, we’d packed away our awning the night before, so there was no soggy canvas to wrestle with in the morning. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off for Letaba—one of our favourite camps.

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Letaba: The Place of Sand
We made good time and arrived late morning, finding a semi-shady site near the fence. Most trees here are Mopani, and at this time of year, they’re bare. It’s a blessing for game viewing—you can see much deeper into the bush, but shade is scarce in the camp.
One of Kruger’s prettiest sights is the Letaba River from the bridge. It’s a haven for waterbuck, hippos, and birds. We spotted African Spoonbills, Three-banded Plovers, Goliath and Grey Herons, Saddle-billed Storks, and the resident Fish Eagle pair.

One of the prettiest views – Letaba River from the bridge

A Waterbuck ram dines on water plant

A pied kingfisher waits for a meal to swim by

Drives and Discoveries
Letaba offers a variety of scenic drives, and we explored most of them during our three-day stay. Elephants were everywhere, and giraffe sightings were particularly lovely. Wildebeest, zebra, and kudu kept us entertained throughout.
On our final afternoon, we stumbled upon a lion kill—perhaps one of the most dramatic sightings we’ve had. Two lionesses were feasting on a buffalo right beside the road. The sound of bones cracking in the silence was a visceral reminder of their power. It’s no wonder the bushveld lives in awe—and fear—of these magnificent creatures.

Lions feast on a buffalo

We could clearly hear the crunching of bones

Elephant Hall – A Must Visit
Of course, no visit to Letaba is complete without once again standing in awe of the tusks of the magnificent tuskers that have lived at Kruger. The Elephant Hall museum is a mine of information about the elephants of the Kruger, and there are many fascinating exhibits to look at, all related to elephants and their life cycles.
There is also a small exhibit of different skulls and skins of other animals in the park. This small museum is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Life-size statue outside the Elephant Hall

Loads of info about elephants

Each tusker has his own display with his tusks

Selection of skulls and skins from other critters

Stars, Braai, and a Glass of Merlot
That evening, we watched the resident hyena pace along the fence, enjoyed a sundowner, and soaked in the peace of camp life. There’s nothing quite like a star-filled sky, the scent of braai in the air, and a glass of merlot in hand.
Again that night, the heavens opened, and we had a terrific thunderstorm. The wind howled and the rain pelted down. Again, the bush got a good watering so I am sure that the green grass is not far away!
A Morning Mishap and a Friendly Fix
The next morning brought a hiccup—our neighbours’ Toyota battery had died overnight. Even a jumpstart couldn’t revive it. Alec drove Waldo to Phalaborwa for a replacement, which delayed our departure for Tsendze. But in true bush spirit, we made new friends, so it was a win-win.
Now, as we head off to Tsendze—where there’s no 220v—the next chapter of this blog will have to wait. But something tells me it’ll be worth the pause.