It’s been a while since I’ve shared my thoughts about the place I call home. As winter gradually makes its presence felt in the southern hemisphere, we’re still fortunate to enjoy a few crisp yet sunny days. On Saturday afternoon, while the men set off to sea in hopes of a good catch, we ladies – Wise Wine Warriors—spent a lovely afternoon at Struisbaai Harbour Café. In that moment, surrounded by the beauty of the harbour, I paused to take it all in and truly appreciate where I was. Then, on Sunday evening, as we all gathered for a sunset braai, I was once again struck by the undeniable charm of this little gem in the deep south of my country. In this vast world, fate has placed me at the southernmost tip of Africa—and I must say, I couldn’t be happier.
It is often mistakenly believed that the southern tip of Africa is Cape Point, near Cape Town, and quite close to where I grew up. Some also claim that this is where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic. It’s good for tourism to go along with this myth! But in fact, the two oceans meet at Cape Agulhas, and it is also the most southerly point of Africa.
When I was a child, I was keen to stand on the very tip of Africa. I asked my parents if we could visit. But they did not share my adventurous spirit and thought that it was hardly worth the visit.
“It’s very remote and there nothing there,” my mother declared.
And she was right – my first visit was in 1982, and the area didn’t even have electricity! Of course, it’s quite different now, and this formerly tiny district is attracting more and more permanent residents. But its natural beauty still abounds. Sometimes I take a moment and let it all sink in that I am at the southernmost tip of “Darkest Africa.” Cape Agulhas and Struisbaai boast a remarkable diversity of flora and fauna. The Agulhas National Park hosts over 2,000 native plant species. The fauna in the region is also fascinating. The wetlands provide refuge for birds and amphibians, including the African Black Oystercatcher, Damara Tern, and Southern Right Whales, which migrate through the area. Our harbour welcomes short-tailed stingrays that swim in to enjoy some delicious pickings thrown into the water by the local fishermen cleaning their catch. We even have Cape Clawless otters frolicking in the shallows from time to time. Click on the link to see a video.
The coastline is also notorious for the number of sailing ships wrecked in its stormy seas. The Cape Agulhas Lighthouse was built in 1849 and is now a historic landmark, still warning seafarers of the treacherous waters
On November 16, 1982, the Meisho Marul ran aground near the southernmost point of Africa due to a storm. Fortunately, all 17 crew members managed to swim to safety. The wreck has since become an iconic sight. Over the years, the wreck has eroded significantly, with only the bow section remaining visible above the waves.
I try to get in a daily walk, and whether it’s just around the village, along the coast road from home to Agulhas or along our very long white beach, I never tire of the beauty around me. Hardly a day goes by that I do not ‘maak ‘n draai by die hawe’ (pop in at the harbour) and it always takes my breath away.
A while ago, I met two young Frenchmen at our local harbour café. They asked if I was local and we got chatting, They expressed how much they loved this part of South Africa.
“But surely it can’t beat the French Riviera,” I said.
“Oh but it is so very much better!” they declared.
I thought they were being polite, but then I really looked and thought, “Well, yes – it’s still so natural and quaint and simple. It’s not glitzy and busy like the top destinations of the world. We are indeed lucky to enjoy this little piece of paradise.”
Don’t get me wrong. When we’re having the foulest weather, I curse the wind, the rain, the flooding and the cold. But when the sun comes out – well – all is forgiven and forgotten.
To end, allow me to share some photographs from the sunset braai we enjoyed with the lovely friends we have made here at the southern tip. Thanks to Sonja for catering the delicious starters and dessert, and to Sharon who insisted we all gather at this stunning site right at the southern tip, overlooking the wreck. Where in the world can you safely picnic outdoors without paying an entrance fee or having guards to ensure your safety? It was exquisite and yes, we did make sure the fire was completely dead before we left.
Adventuring into Retirement 