Tag Archives: wildlife

Gecko 109 on Safari – Final Episode -Wildlife Encounters at Kruger: Elephants and More by Guest Blogger, Cathy.

Leave a reply

Solar Struggles and Starry Nights: Tsendze and Beyond

As I mentioned in our last post, our departure for Tsendze was delayed by a bit of roadside camaraderie. Waldo and Desiré, fellow campers, had car trouble, and Alec offered to help. After a trip to Phalaborwa and some mechanical magic, the comforting roar of Waldo’s engine signalled success. We packed up, said a warm farewell to our new friends, and finally hit the road.

The drive to Tsendze was lovely—clear skies and a gentle warmth that would later climb to a blistering 37°C. We stopped at Mopani Camp to check in, where the ever-friendly ladies at reception greeted us with their usual friendly faces. Tsendze is one of the few Kruger camps where sites are allocated, so after receiving our spot, we drove the eight or so kilometres back to the entrance.

The gates at Tsendze are a bit of a landmark, and as always, Alec did a quick scan of the bush to ensure I wouldn’t become a widow before opening them. We found campsite #5 and were thrilled to see a large tree offering generous shade—much needed, as the heat had become oppressive and there’s no electricity at Tsendze. Our aircon was out of the question, so we relied solely on our 12V system to keep the fridge and lights going.

Once the van was set up and the solar panels laid out to catch what sun they could, we returned to Mopani for a lazy lunch on the deck overlooking Pioneer Dam. The elephants were having a glorious pool party—splashing, playing, and generally making us wish we could join them.

An Elephant Pool Party at Pioneer dam

Back at camp, the afternoon drifted by as we enjoyed the birds and squirrels in the surrounding bush. As evening fell and the heat softened, we settled in with our customary drinks and opted for a simple sandwich supper, still full from lunch and not quite ready to brave the stove.

As tradition goes, Roger popped by to welcome us. He’s a fixture at Tsendze — knowledgeable, kind, and always ready with a story. He apologized for the foot traffic near our site; a nest of barn owls had drawn curious children from across the camp. Roger’s passion for and knowledge of the birds and animals of the area is encyclopaedic, especially when it comes to owls. It’s always a pleasure chatting with him.

Kruger’s bird life felt like a living field guide. We enjoyed watching them in camp and on our drives. There were many different species but there are a few that are our favourites.

A majestic martial eagle

Marabou Storks were at the end of the line when looks were handed out

A Pale Chanting Goshawk peers out

Mocking Cliff Chat poses beautifully

Ford Tailed Drongos were everywhere

A Kurrichane Thrush looks for supper

Egrets and a Cormorant look for supper

Alec’s favourite Bird – Yellow Billed Hornbill

Burchells Coucal dozes in the sun

Crested Francolin are accomplished beggars

Gorgeous Tawny Eagle

Bennet’s Woodpecker

Southern Ground Hornbills

Beautiful mature Bataleur

White fronted Bee Eater waiting for prey

Busy Magpie Shrike

African Jacana forages in the shallows

After a refreshing shower, we turned in early, eager to explore the area the next day. But morning greeted us with thick cloud cover — a camper’s nemesis when relying on solar power. Our panels, usually reliable in partial sun, couldn’t keep up under the heavy skies. With our battery struggling, we made another trip to Mopani to see if we could swap our booking for a powered site at Letaba. The receptionist worked her magic and found us a place one night, which was better than nothing, especially with school holidays filling up the camps.

We packed up and headed back to Letaba, grateful for the reprieve and already making mental notes about upgrading our electrical setup. Lithium batteries? Better panels? A puzzle for another day.

Letaba welcomed us with a lovely site, and we spent the afternoon revisiting some of our favourite spots—the bridge over the river, Engelhart Dam, and the loops off the Phalaborwa Road. Kruger, as always, delivered. One of my favourite sightings was a line of elephant bulls marching out of the bush to drink at a reservoir—majestic and utterly grounding.

On a blazing day these zebra needed a drink

Buffalo also drinking at the same waterhole

An unusual Kruger sighting – Tsessebe

Five Bulls in a row

Enjoying the freshest water

Hippos ignore the Yellow-billed Storks

Some of the most fearsome jaws in nature

Giraffe necking – some of those hits must have hurt

Waterbuck bulls are more interested in the ladies than us

Just outside camp on our final drive, we had one of those rare sightings that makes you blink twice and wonder if your eyes are playing tricks. We were meandering along the river loops when a flash of white darted across the road in front of us. We stopped immediately, and there it was—perched to the left, a pure white squirrel. I scrambled for my camera, but of course, it chose that moment to focus on the nearest leaves. By the time I’d adjusted, the squirrel had vanished into the undergrowth.

Whether it was a true albino or leucistic, I couldn’t say. But what struck me most was how starkly its snowy coat stood out against the muted tones of the bush—like a tiny beacon in a world of camouflage. It’s a wonder it’s survived to adulthood, given how visible it must be to every predator, feathered or four-legged. We could only hope this little ghost of the veld continues to evade its predators. 

My out of focus pic of the squirrel

Back at camp, we found ourselves surrounded by twelve Maui motor homes, all part of a French tour group. They’d formed a loose circle, and our little Gecko stood out like a lone ranger. The evening was quiet, punctuated by night sounds and snippets of French conversation drifting through the air.

The next morning marked the start of our 2,000-kilometre journey home. As always, leaving Kruger felt like leaving a piece of ourselves behind.

Sunset on our holiday!

Impressions of Kruger

This visit brought a pleasant surprise: signs of real maintenance. Letaba now has a new electrified diamond mesh fence, and the new shop is a welcome upgrade. The debris from the old, burned-down shop has finally been cleared. Though we were a bit unsettled by the sight of a large animal trap near the campsite—what exactly were they hoping to catch?

Across the camps, things looked more cared for. Gardens were tended, paths swept, and for the first time in ages, we didn’t spot toilet paper strewn along the loops near the Letaba River. On our last visit, it had been a real eyesore.

We had a wonderful time—short, but rich with wildlife, quiet moments, and the kind of peace only the bush can offer. There’s nothing quite like sitting under a sky full of stars, drink in hand, the scent of roasting meat in the air. The calls of Scops Owls and nightjars blend with jackal howls, hyena whoops, and every now and then, the deep, primal roar of a lion.

Kruger is more than a destination—it’s a balm for the soul. And it’s a place we’ll keep returning to, again and again.

Gecko 109 on Safari – Episode 3 – Wildlife and Tranquility in Kruger – By Guest Blogger, Cathy

Leave a reply

In my previous blog, I mistakenly referred to our meal stop as the Farmers Market at Alzu. The correct name is the Farmer’s Bistro. I also mentioned we were heading to Mopani, when in fact it was Maroela—clearly, I mixed up my trees! These slip-ups have now been corrected in the earlier posts.

From Kopjies to Riverbeds: A Journey Through Kruger
We left Berg-en-Dal early, eager to explore a new corner of the Park—Maroela, a satellite campsite near Orpen. The drive was, once again, a joy. Kruger never disappoints when it comes to wildlife, and this leg of the trip gifted us one of the Park’s most elusive treasures: a pack of wild dogs lounging in a riverbed. These endangered canines are high on every visitor’s wish list, and although we’d hoped to spot the resident pack near Satara, we were lucky enough to encounter them much earlier.

Not long after, we found a young leopard trying to get comfortable in a tree. Choosing the right, smooth branch for a lazy day is very important.

Young leopard doing its best to get comfortable

Our First Glimpse of the Dogs

Wild Dogs in the river bed

Every river has its crocodiles!
Not long after, we came across a pride of lions—albeit far from the road. It always amazes me how some people can spot the faintest flicker of movement or a subtle shape in the distance. One kind soul pointed out a green mound near a cluster of trees, and sure enough, through binoculars, nine lions lay dozing in the sun. I’ll never stop marvelling at the eyesight of seasoned bush-goers!

Lions Lazing in the sunshine

One young male keeps watch

A Pitstop at Satara
By midday, we reached the Orpen turnoff and decided to pop into Satara for lunch and fuel. A delicious chicken salad at the Cattle Baron hit the spot, and with a full tank, we made our way to Maroela.

Along the way, we were lucky to encounter another rarity at Kruger, the Southern Ground Hornbill. In fact, we saw these magnificent birds a few times. Did you know that these birds are the largest hornbill in the world and one of the heaviest flying birds in South Africa?

A Gorgeous Ground Hornbill

Another prime viewing was watching this young Bataleur play in a puddle! This daft young bird hopped around, sipped a little, and thought about bathing. It fluffed its feathers, dipped down, and then hopped away again.  It went through this performance a few times before tiring of the game and moving off. What a pleasure to see a young animal just enjoying itself.

A young Bataleur playing in a puddle

Maroela: Quiet Charm by the River
After the bustling energy of Satara, Maroela was a breath of fresh air. Small, quiet, and reminiscent of Tsendze, it offered a peaceful retreat. The gate system is self-managed, and many sites overlook the river—dry at the time, but still frequented by elephants and giraffe.
The ablutions, though a bit dated, were spotless. And the showers? Miraculously well-behaved! No rogue spray patterns—just a steady stream of water where it was meant to go. We quickly settled into a lovely site and headed out for our first drive.
The veld around Maroela looked tired, a clear sign of the dry season’s end. Still, the area was alive with elephants, giraffe, impala, kudu, and more. We’ve never been the type to chase only the big cats. There’s so much beauty in the quieter creatures, and we find endless joy in watching them go about their day.

Everyone waiting to drink from the last pool of water

So many beautiful giraffes

A roadblock you don’t argue with

Side-eye from a Hippo

Zebra drink at Nsemani Dam

Rain and Reflection
On our last night at Maroela, the heavens opened. Rain at last! I swear the bush sighed in relief. Thankfully, we’d packed away our awning the night before, so there was no soggy canvas to wrestle with in the morning. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off for Letaba—one of our favourite camps.

Letaba: The Place of Sand
We made good time and arrived late morning, finding a semi-shady site near the fence. Most trees here are Mopani, and at this time of year, they’re bare. It’s a blessing for game viewing—you can see much deeper into the bush, but shade is scarce in the camp.
One of Kruger’s prettiest sights is the Letaba River from the bridge. It’s a haven for waterbuck, hippos, and birds. We spotted African Spoonbills, Three-banded Plovers, Goliath and Grey Herons, Saddle-billed Storks, and the resident Fish Eagle pair.

One of the prettiest views – Letaba River from the bridge

A Waterbuck ram dines on water plant

A pied kingfisher waits for a meal to swim by

Drives and Discoveries
Letaba offers a variety of scenic drives, and we explored most of them during our three-day stay. Elephants were everywhere, and giraffe sightings were particularly lovely. Wildebeest, zebra, and kudu kept us entertained throughout.
On our final afternoon, we stumbled upon a lion kill—perhaps one of the most dramatic sightings we’ve had. Two lionesses were feasting on a buffalo right beside the road. The sound of bones cracking in the silence was a visceral reminder of their power. It’s no wonder the bushveld lives in awe—and fear—of these magnificent creatures.

Lions feast on a buffalo

We could clearly hear the crunching of bones

Elephant Hall – A Must Visit
Of course, no visit to Letaba is complete without once again standing in awe of the tusks of the magnificent tuskers that have lived at Kruger. The Elephant Hall museum is a mine of information about the elephants of the Kruger, and there are many fascinating exhibits to look at, all related to elephants and their life cycles.
There is also a small exhibit of different skulls and skins of other animals in the park. This small museum is well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Life-size statue outside the Elephant Hall

Loads of info about elephants

Each tusker has his own display with his tusks

Selection of skulls and skins from other critters

Stars, Braai, and a Glass of Merlot
That evening, we watched the resident hyena pace along the fence, enjoyed a sundowner, and soaked in the peace of camp life. There’s nothing quite like a star-filled sky, the scent of braai in the air, and a glass of merlot in hand.
Again that night, the heavens opened, and we had a terrific thunderstorm. The wind howled and the rain pelted down. Again, the bush got a good watering so I am sure that the green grass is not far away!
A Morning Mishap and a Friendly Fix
The next morning brought a hiccup—our neighbours’ Toyota battery had died overnight. Even a jumpstart couldn’t revive it. Alec drove Waldo to Phalaborwa for a replacement, which delayed our departure for Tsendze. But in true bush spirit, we made new friends, so it was a win-win.
Now, as we head off to Tsendze—where there’s no 220v—the next chapter of this blog will have to wait. But something tells me it’ll be worth the pause.

Gecko 109 on Safari Episode 2 – Discovering Crocodile Bridge: Warthogs and Wildlife – by Guest Blogger, Cathy

2 Replies

From Bass Lake to Crocodile Bridge: Surprises, Sightings, and a Mop-Wielding Warthog Wrangler

We left Bass Lake early, slightly anxious about finding our way back to the N4 and bracing ourselves for the inevitable convoy of trucks. Thankfully, we navigated back to the N1 without a hitch and soon merged onto the N4. It was busy, as expected, but the dual lanes made for a smooth enough drive.

With no breakfast in our bellies, we decided to stop at the next promising spot—and that turned out to be Alzu. What a surprise! We expected the usual roadside pit stop: a fuel station, maybe a tired-looking restaurant. Instead, Alzu felt like someone had plucked a strip mall from Joburg and dropped it in the middle of the bush. Multiple restaurants, a shop that could rival a small city, and crowds of people everywhere.

After peeking into Mug & Bean and Spur, we opted for the quieter Farmer’s Bistro. Good call. They served up toasted egg and bacon sandwiches on thick farm bread—hearty, delicious, and paired with the obligatory mountain of chips. Alec and I couldn’t even finish ours.

Back on the road, we made good time until we hit a jaw-dropping queue of trucks near Komatipoort—15 kilometres of slow-moving metal. It made us wonder: where do these drivers eat, sleep, or even find a bathroom? Most of the ore trucks don’t have sleeper cabs, so it must be a rough few days inching forward.

Eventually, we turned off towards Crocodile Bridge and felt that familiar thrill—Kruger time. We’d never stayed at Croc Bridge before, and it turned out to be a gem. Neatly demarcated campsites (a rarity!), a warm welcome from the resident bushbuck, and a shady, safe spot for Lizzie, our caravan.

The camp was spotless, with beautifully tended gardens. We met a man wielding a bright green, slightly moth-eaten mop—his warthog deterrent. Apparently, the warthogs like to sleep under vehicles and have midnight tusk-fueled brawls that wreak havoc on wiring. Mop diplomacy at its finest.

Our game drives were fantastic. A courting pair of lions stole the show, but we also saw herds of impala, elegant kudu, and some lovely birds. Croc Bridge was the perfect start to our holiday.

That said, Monday marked the beginning of SAN Parks’ free access week, and the roads turned chaotic. Sightings always cause traffic jams, but with the surge in daily visitors, it was borderline gridlock.

Our courting couple off to find a room
A cute steenbok stopped to say hello
Our first Ellies – Always a treat
Plenty of beautiful giraffe
The scourge of Crocodile Bridge!

The Long Drive to Berg-en-Dal: Rhinos, Rock Formations, and a Camp That Could Use a Map

After two nights at Croc Bridge, we headed to Berg-en-Dal. We had three options: backtrack to the N4 and brave the trucks again, take the bone-rattling gravel road between Croc Bridge and Malelane, or enjoy a leisurely drive up the tar road via Skukuza. No contest—we chose the tar road and stopped at Lower Sabie for breakfast.

Berg-en-Dal was bustling. Cars, vans, tents—everywhere. It took a while to find a spot, and honestly, I wish SAN Parks would follow Croc Bridge’s lead and demarcate sites. At Berg-en-Dal, it was hard to tell where one site ended and another began. At one point, a tent was completely boxed in by vehicles, and a mini reshuffle was needed just to let the poor campers out.

Still, the sightings were wonderful. The landscape here is stunning—rocky kopjies and dramatic rock formations. It’s prime rhino territory, and we were lucky to spot a cow and her calf. The highlight, though, was a female leopard doing what leopards do best: napping. She was so relaxed, it felt like a privilege just to watch her breathe.

After two lovely days, it was time to pack up and head to Maroela—another first for us.

Such an elegant lady – female Kudu
A stunning lilac-breasted Roller
Buffalo by the dozen
Alec’s favourite bird – yellow-billed hornbill
Grey Heron – head on!
Mama Rhino with her calf

One sleepy leopard
Wonder if the elephant wanted to admire the fig

The Curse of the Smartphone: A Rant from the Riverbank

One thing I just can’t wrap my head around is the obsession with phones. At Lower Sabie’s Mug & Bean, we sat on the veranda overlooking the magnificent Sabie River. Birds flitted across the water, animals moved in the distance—and yet, most people were glued to their screens.

Before even greeting the waiter, phones were out, thumbs scrolling. No eye contact, no conversation, just a sea of faces lit by blue light. And it’s not just teenagers—it’s everyone. Why come to the park if your main interest is a 4×6 inch screen?

Don’t get me wrong—my phone’s a useful tool. But I sincerely hope it never becomes the most important thing in my life.

Spring Awakening: Exploring South Africa’s West Coast

2 Replies

After three years away, spring lured us back to South Africa’s West Coast—when the land wears its most dazzling colours and the air hums with renewal. Our journey had both heart and purpose: a long-overdue visit to a dear friend in a Langebaan retirement home, and a financial check-in with our adviser based in Dwarskersbos.

Note: To view the group of photographs, click on the first one to enlarge it. Use the arrows to navigate the slideshow. Press ‘escape’ to return to the blog post. On your phone, swipe to view each photo and tap the ‘x’ to return to the blog post. You may also need to tap the information icon to view the captions.

Before settling into our Airbnb in Langebaan on Day One, we made a beeline for the West Coast National Park. The Postberg section, open only in August and September, was in full bloom.

The bird life flitting among the spring blooms was a true delight which stirred a memory from long ago: an Afrikaans liedjie we once sang at school.
Al die veld is vrolik
Al die voeltjies sing
Al die kriekies kriek daar buit
Elke springkaans spring.

Loosely translated – The whole veld is cheerful, the birds sing, the crickets call outside, and each grasshopper hops.

Black-banded Martin
Black-banded Martin
Black-banded Martin
White-throated canary
Levaillant’s Cisticola
Cape Bulbul
White-backed Mousebird
Double collared sunbird and speckled mousebird
Double-collared Sunbird
Karoo Prinia
Cape Robin-Chat
Karoo Scrub Robin

The Cape Francolins certainly enjoyed the fields of flowers

The only mammals we found were these beautiful Cape Mountain Zebra.

Though primarily scavengers, yellow-billed kites also hunt small vertebrates and insects. Flower-rich fields attract pollinators and other insects, which in turn draw insectivorous birds like kites. We were thrilled to witness this in Postberg.

We also explored the other section of the West Coast National Park and the highlight was finding the Grey-Winged Francolin.

The ostrich family was also fascinating to watch. Those babies must be a lot of work!

Day Two led us to Velddrif for a financial meeting, followed by an impromptu river cruise on the Berg River. With no booking in hand, we simply Googled “boat cruises,” followed the directions, and hoped for the best. Luck was on our side. We spotted Nico’s sign, dialed the number, and he cheerfully invited us to join a group departing at 12:30. It was 12:10—we made it just in time.

The Earl, ever at peace on the water, was in his element. The cruise was pure magic. The vessel—a humble West Coast Chuckie—was far from fancy, but with only six of us aboard, it offered the perfect vantage for soaking in the scenery and spotting birds. The river mirrored the sky, and the bird life was a quiet joy.

The sign that attracted us
Nico and his chuckie
Grey Heron
Egret
Guineafowl
Little Grebe
Giant Kingfisher
Water Thick-knee
Black-ctowned NIght Heron
African Darter
Pied Kigfisher
Egyptian Goose
Grey Heron
Spur-winged Geese
Diving Blacksmith Lapwing

As we were driving back to Langebaan we passed a wetland and stopped to observes some teal with their babies. A few stilts were wading in the ponds too,

Black-winged Stilt

Day Three
After packing up for departure from our accommodation, we enjoyed a lovely lunch with our dear friend Hanny, in Langebaan, then drove back to Cape Town, grateful for the springtime beauty, the meaningful connections, and the chance to revisit familiar places with fresh eyes. The West Coast gifted us not only wildflowers and birds, but moments of reflection and renewal.

Bird Watching at Strandfontein: A Hidden Gem

11 Replies

The Earl and I are ex-Capetonians, now happily settled in the slow-paced seaside village of Struisbaai, perched at the southern tip of Africa. Every so often, we return to the Mother City to reconnect with family, catch up with friends, and check in with our trusted medical specialists.

This time, we set off on Sunday 17 August for a two-week visit—and I was unusually well-prepared! I drew up an itinerary, carefully slotting in medical appointments alongside dates with loved ones. Hopefully, no one important was left off the list!

On Sunday, 31 August, we had plans for afternoon tea with my aunt, but the morning was wide open. “Let’s go to our favourite bird watching spot,” I suggested to the Earl, and he readily agreed.

The Strandfontein Birding Area may be part of a wastewater treatment site, but it’s also a shimmering gem within the False Bay Nature Reserve. This reserve includes Rondevlei, Zeekoevlei, Pelican Park, Slangetjiebos, and the Zandwolf Coastal Strip. Strandfontein itself is a RAMSAR-designated wetland and one of the Western Cape’s premier birding destinations. Its wagon-wheel layout of ponds draws flamingos, pelicans, and a dazzling array of other water birds.

I’ve blogged about this special place before and have taken school groups there on several occasions. It never fails to delight.

Note: To view the group of photographs, click on the first one to enlarge it. Use the arrows to navigate the slideshow. Press ‘escape’ to return to the blog post. On your phone, swipe to view each photo and tap the ‘x’ to return to the blog post. You may also need to tap the information icon to view the captions.

With spring just a breath away, the weather graciously played its part—sunny, warm, and with just a gentle breeze. The ponds lay still, while wildflowers burst into bloom across the park. We were especially enchanted by the arum lilies, though the white daisies and the vibrant yellows, pinks, and purples scattered throughout stole our hearts just as easily.

The sea side of this hidden reserve

There’s ongoing work to revamp the area and enhance both water quality and habitat diversity. The City of Cape Town, in collaboration with conservation groups, is regrading the settling pans to better accommodate a range of bird species. Reedbed management is also being improved to support breeding birds.

While these upgrades promise long-term benefits, I think that machinery noise and fluctuating water levels seem to have caused many birds to move elsewhere, and with fewer nesting and feeding areas available, the usual avian bustle was noticeably subdued. It’s also a touch early for the migrant waders. There were none in evidence on this day.

Normally, I can count on flamingos, pelicans, and purple swamphens to show up for me and when bringing guests, I usually promise that they will see them! Luckily, it was just us—so no risk of being exposed as a pretender! We did catch sight of flamingos in flight, though they must have settled at a pond we’d already passed. Their elegant fly-over was the only trace they left behind.

We may have missed a few familiar faces, but the drive was delightful, and the birds that graced the ponds were simply gorgeous. Some of the ponds, like the ones pictured below had teams of birds while there was little to be seen on others,

Gulls against a stunning backdrop of spring flowers
Mainly Cape Shovellers on this pond

I don’t remember seeing the Cape Canary in this park, but I might have. This one certainly was enjoying the daisies and the arum lilies. The little Levaillant’s cisticola was also good enough to pose but getting that clear shot was not easy with the reeds in he background wanting to take the focus away.

Cape Canary
Levaillant’s Cisticola

True to form, the Yellow-billed Ducks graced several ponds, ever camera-ready and utterly unfazed by our lens-loving admiration.

We spotted flocks of Cape Shovellers in the distance and managed to get a couple a little closer for the lens. Cape Teal and red-billed teal were about but we only managed to photograph the Cape. Some Fulvous duck were hiding and we almost missed them. They are not as common as the other ducks.

Fulvous Duck
Cape Shoveller
Cape Teal

Avocets and stilts made an appearance and seemed to be enjoying the calm ponds. We also found a few blacksmith lapwings but there were not as many as usual.

Pied Avocet
Black-winged stilt
Blacksmith Lapwing

The herons were having a good time too.

Black-necked Heron
Grey Heron

Coots had not left the area and there were a number of faithful moorhen too,

Red-knobbed Coot
Common Moorhen

Surprisingly there weren’t many Egyptian Geese. I always think they improve the scenery. There were also a few Spurwings around,

Egyptian Geese
Spurwing Geese

The egrets and ibises were quite entertaining

Cattle Egret and Sacred Ibis
Quite relaxed with each other
A helmeted guineafowl was welcome too
This ibis tried to show off his wing-span but the stilt was not impressed

Even with fewer birds than usual, the reserve offered its own quiet charm—a reminder that nature doesn’t always need to dazzle to restore. We left with full hearts, grateful for the stillness, the spring blooms, and the joy of simply being.

Share Your World Monday 11 November 2024

8 Replies

Here are my answers to this week’s questions from Pensitivity101

1.  If reincarnation exists, would you like to return as a domestic pet or a wild animal?
I would choose to come back as an elephant. Elephants are a matriarchal society and I identify with that. Also, you and you can eat and drink as much as you like and nobody cares how fat you are! Elephants command respect even from the king of the jungle the lion!


2. Do you think Zoos are a good idea?
I do not like zoos. I know some good ones can be educational, but I prefer to see wild animals in their natural habitat. I dislike the idea of polar bears being in a zoo in a tropical climate!


3.  Have you ever been to a safari park?
While safari parks are generally better than traditional zoos, the animals are still kept in captivity and are fed by the rangers. I believe that animals should not be removed from their natural habitats, but we do not live in a perfect world. These parks can be educational and provide people with the opportunity to see wild animals without having to spend a fortune on an actual safari holiday. To answer the question directly: No, I have never been to a safari park. However, I am fortunate enough to have visited several game reserves where animals live in the wild without human intervention.


4.  Have you visited an oceanarium?
Indeed I have. Similar to zoos and safari parks, they provide education, conservation, and awareness. The animals are well cared for, yet one might wonder if they would be better off in the vast, wild ocean.

Grandpa explaining the mysteries of the ocean to his fascinated grandsons

Gratitude:

II am thankful for all the wildlife holidays I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing. I’m also thankful for the birds in my garden, especially for the beautiful Klaas’s Cuckoo that posed for me a few days ago. I often hear him but rarely see him.


Gecko Road Trip 2024 – Cathy’s Story

3 Replies

Cathy and Alec joined us as travel companions on our latest road trip, and I’ve invited Cathy to share her perspective in a guest post.

Note: To view the group of photographs, click on the first one to enlarge it. Use the arrows to navigate the slideshow. Press ‘escape’ to return to the blog post. On your phone, swipe to view each photo and tap the ‘x’ to return to the blog post. You may also need to tap the information icon to view the captions.

Bright and early on Monday, October 14th, Alec and I teamed up with Helen and Earl in Bredasdorp to start another two-week journey through some of South Africa’s most beautiful national parks. Monday was mainly a travel day, so we enjoyed a leisurely drive through the stunning Tradouw Pass to Barrydale, where we were welcomed with coffee and breakfast at the Country Pumpkin. We took our time along the R62, admiring the vast Karoo landscapes and dramatic passes like Huisrivier just outside Calitzdorp until we reached our overnight stop at the Kleinplaas Resort in Oudtshoorn.

We were excited to get going the next day and headed out through the magnificent Meiringspoort pass. Driving along the N12, you’ll enter Meiringspoort, about 11km from De Rust. As the Groot River gnawed its path through the enormous Swartberg Mountains, it created this breathtaking gorge, resulting in a remarkable natural gateway that links the Klein and Groot Karoo.

Besides its colossal rock walls and spectacular scenery, Meiringspoort is best known for its 25 drifts. Throughout the 25km drive, the road criss-crosses the river 25 times by means of these drifts, each individually named and with an interesting story behind every name. Various stops along the poort give visitors the opportunity to pull over and take some time to enjoy the magnificent scenic beauty, the sheer rock walls, and their mind-bending formations. Restroom facilities (kept neat & clean) and shaded picnic spots are dotted along the way. 

Since we left early, we arrived at Karoo National Park near Beaufort West with plenty of time to settle into our two adjacent sites.

The campsite at Karoo National Park is very well laid out. The well-demarcated stands are arranged in a circle around the ablutions and kitchen, and most have a little shade. The ablutions are well maintained, spotlessly clean, and very user-friendly. The amenities are also well developed, with a small shop that carries all the necessities as well as curios and a restaurant that serves excellent value-for-money meals. 

The next three days were spent exploring the park. This is not a park for critter-crazy folk. While there are many types of antelope, Mountain Zebras, and lions, the true value of this park is the awesome scenery. With a blue sky that stretches for miles, incredible rock-covered crags, and rocky, stubby bush-covered plains, this park enchants the eye on all sides. It is a place to relax, unwind, and allow the serenity of nature to calm your soul and uplift your spirit.  

A Courting Pair of Steenbok
Another accomplished begger in the camp
Famous Torties at Karoo National Park
Gemsbok are elegant antelope
Gemsbok posing on the skyline
Great Scenery
Loving Klipspringer Couple
Mountain Zebras in their natural element
Our Camp at Karoo National Park

Leaving the Karoo National Park, we drove up the N1 to a little past Three Sisters before turning onto the R63 and heading towards Graaff Reinet. The road surface was excellent, but as soon as we hit the Eastern Cape border, it deteriorated and became very bumpy, with patches on top of patches. The Western Cape certainly has some of the best-maintained roads in South Africa!

We were blown into Camdeboo National Park by a howling gale. It is a long time since we have stayed in this park and the campsite was a welcome sight. This campsite is reminiscent of Tsendze at Kruger, with each campsite carved out of the bush and relatively private. The ablutions showed their age a little, but they were spotlessly clean and user-friendly. With its proximity to Graaff Reinet, this camp has no shop or restaurant, but the gate closes at 10:00 pm, so you can eat in Graaff Reinet.

That first evening, with the wind howling, we could not risk a braai fire as the grass was dried and the risk of a bush fire was too high, so we resorted to Plan B and telephoned Domino’s Pizza. Indeed, they would deliver to the reception at Camdeboo, so we feasted on pizza while tucked away in our caravans for the evening. This is the only thing I don’t like about the Gecko – there is nowhere to sit inside when there is bad weather. Alec has fitted a small removable table that we can use for meals or to play cards (I trounced my hubby at Rummy!), but the space is minimal, and moving around is almost impossible.

The following day, we set out on a game drive around the camp, but there was nothing much to see apart from some birds. Admittedly, the weather could have been better with intermittent drizzle. A crossing over the Sundays River leads from one game section to another. Still, neither Alec nor Earl wanted to try the crossing, despite reception saying it was drivable, as the water level was rather deep. 

That afternoon, we drove to the alternative entrance on the R63 and enjoyed a drive around the game area, seeing a few animals. The weather was still drizzly and cold, so we went into town for an early supper. Helen and Earl had previously enjoyed eating at Pioneers, so we refuelled, and they took us to the restaurant. It has since changed its name to Frontiers but serves the same excellent food, and we thoroughly enjoyed our lamb shanks.

The following day, we set off for the short drive to Mountain Zebra. This is one of our favourite parks, and arriving at the campground, we found two sites along the fence that we could enjoy. This campground is also well laid out, with the stands clearly demarcated, though the stands along the fence could be more level! The little Sherpa Tiny caravan next to us was precariously balanced on rocks to try and level it out! 

This is the first time we have visited this park since the ablutions have been upgraded, and we were keen to see what all the fuss was about. I was amazed at the lovely tiles and mirrors that I saw when I went in to wash my hands. Sadly, this was where the amazement stopped, and the irritation started. These ablutions are more about flash than bang. 

Why would you choose tiles that are slippery when wet for a public restroom? The floor is an accident waiting for its victims. 

Then there are the showers, which are minuscule and very strangely placed. Two are across a corner with hooks hidden in nooks, and the others are so tiny that the cubicle width is a few millimetres wider than the cubicle door. The windows are placed high up and recessed so they are impossible to reach, resulting in condensation on the tiles and dampening everything. Then you have a positively dreadful three-panel sliding door to close. The gap left by opening the doors is tiny, and I am sure many people struggle to get through that gap and into the shower. Then, when you go, you must step back into the wet shower to open the cubicle door. Then, you must navigate slippery tiles with wet shoes. The whole thing is laughable. I suggest that Sanparks ask an organisation like Kampmal to assist when redesigning ablutions so campers design for campers!

Mountain Zebra is similar to the Karoo in that it is a park designed for scenery rather than animals, though many species exist to enjoy. The park is named after the Mountain Zebra, so there are many of those, along with large herds of Black Wildebeest, Springbok, Red Hartebeest, and Blesbok. There are also cheetahs, lions, and hyenas as predators, though judging by the numbers and large herds of antelope, there could be a lot more! It is very disappointing to arrive at the gate and see all the names on the register state that they are there for culling! It’s not exactly what you want to see at a National Park.

We had three fantastic days at Mountain Zebra, where we again revelled in the vast skies, beautiful vistas, and some tremendous sightings, the cream of which was the cheetah female with her cubs. On our last evening, we drove up one of the hills looking for the black rhino, and halfway up, we came across a lone buffalo bull standing in the middle of the road. There was a long drop-off on one side and a mountain on the other, so we needed somewhere for us or it to go. We pulled over to the side of the road, turned off the engine, and hoped he would simply walk past on the right. Rather than walk past, he walked right up to the bonnet of the Ford. We both sat silently while he stared, and we stared, and the birds were the only sound! I know how unpredictable dagga boys can be, so I had my heart in my mouth and taped the entire thing, so I had something to show the insurance company if need be! Another car came from the opposite direction, so he clambered over the rocks and got far enough off the road to allow both cars to pass. 

A Rainbow tells us that the rain is past
A very uncomfortable bed
Blesbok were everywhere
Cute Ground Squirrel
Earl and Helen relaxing
Female Cheetah and her cubs
Large herd of Springbok
More Stunning Scenery
Mother Zebra about to pop.
Only a mother could love this face
Our camp at Mountain Zebra National Park
Scenery for the soul
Small buffalo herd with calves
Springbok lambs were making an appearance
Such a handsome chap
We didn’t invite you to dinner!
Buffalo Road Block

All in all, it was a lovely, restful trip. Having enjoyed a large bowl of chicken soup for our souls, it was time to pack up once again and start our trek home. All too quickly, our two weeks away ended, and the reality of day-to-day living is again back! 

Gecko Road Trip 2024 Mountain Zebra National Park

8 Replies

Note: To view the group of photographs, click on the first one to enlarge it. Use the arrows to navigate the slideshow. Press ‘escape’ to return to the blog post. On your phone, swipe to view each photo and tap the ‘x’ to return to the blog post. You may also need to tap the information icon to view the captions.

22 October 2024 to 25 October 2024

The final game reserve we visited was Mountain Zebra National Park near Cradock in the Eastern Cape. Upon signing in at the entrance gate, we were initially disappointed to hear that culling would occur during our visit. Later, we discovered that it was conducted at night, which did not affect our stay in any way.

Fortunately, the weather began to clear up, allowing us to set up camp just before the onset of rain. Since it wasn’t warm enough to cook outside and we are all getting too old to rough it, we opted for the convenience of eating at the lovely camp restaurant. Each day the weather got better until the last two were quite hot.

There was a spit and and a spot of rain on our second night but we simply had to cook our meat. Thanks to our intrepid braai masters
Our Campsite

We’ve visited Mountain Zebra many times and have experienced most of their 4×4 trails. However, this time we opted not to take our car on these routes and instead adhered to the standard gravel and tarred roads.
The scenery in the park is stunning,

We were thrilled to discover an abundance of wildlife. At times, we encountered vast herds composed of various species mingling together. As avid birdwatchers, we paused for each bird, compiling a list of approximately 50 different species, though we captured fewer photographs.

Bar-throated Apalis
Grey-backed cisticola
Pied Starling
Pale Chanting Goshawk
Ant-eating Chat
A bird in hand might be worth two in the bush but I rather liked seeing a white-browed sparrow-weaver and a grey-backed cisticola sharing a branch
We heard him and saw him often but this is the only Bokmakierie to pose for a portrait
Red-billed Firefinch
Karoo Prinia
Chestnut-vented Warbler
Greater-striped swallow
Common Fiscal

Naturally, the first animal we encountered in the park was a Mountain Zebra, and these creatures kept us amused throughout our visit. At times we observed them alone, at other times in large herds, and occasionally alongside other animals.
South Africa has three different species of zebra namely Plains Zebra, Mountain Zebra, and Grevy’s Zebra. (Grevy’s not seen in South Africa – only East Africa – Thanks Anne for the correction.)
The Plains Zebra is the most common and is characterized by broad stripes that can run horizontally or vertically, often accompanied by shadow stripes.
The Grevy’s Zebra is significantly larger than the other species, with narrow pinstripes and a sturdier build.
The Mountain Zebra is smaller, distinguished by a dewlap and stripes that are narrower than the Plains’, and more distinct, particularly on the rump.
Each species has adapted to its environment, with the Mountain Zebra as its name suggests, favouring mountainous regions.
In the 1930s, the Mountain Zebra was considered a threatened species, which led to the establishment of the park for their protection. This initiative has proven to be successful, as there are now large herds of them thriving in the park.

Do you think I resemble a donkey!
Don’t insult me!
We love this place
The grass may look dry but it’s delicious
What the heck is an Egyptian Goose doing in our territory
Get out of here – the dam is dry!

Another species that is thriving well in this park is the Black Wildebeest/White-tailed Gnu.
Blue Wildebeest/Brindled Gnu/White-bearded Gnu prefer the savannah. They are larger and have horns that curve sideways out from the head.
Black Wildebeest/White-tailed Gnu are smaller, have horns facing forward, and have white tails.

A handsome band of Gnus
Wildebeest means wild cattle but I’m no cow!
Prettier than the Blue Wildebeest don’t you think?

Antelope species common in the park are Blesbok, Red Hartebeest, Gemsbok, Eland, Kudu, Springbok and a variety of others that we did not spot.

I am a handsome blesbok
It’s my white blaze that gives me my name
Bles is the Afrikaans word for blaze
I am everywhere in the park
Yes, I know I’m gorgeous
Give me some peace – I need a nap.
What are you staring at? Haven’t you seen a Gemsbok before? I’m also known as an Oryx
What big horns you have!
I’m glad you like them
Come and have a snack with me and then we can talk.
Lots of Rugby Buck in the park
Baby taking a rest
Next best thing to the scrum

Other creatures that gave us entertainment were jackals, ground squirrels, and buffalo.

A jackal on a mission
Now where is my mate?
Ah at last she’s caught up.
Ground Squirrels are really cute
This one was very friendky
I think he was hoping for a snack
Sorry Buddy – We are not allowed to feed the wildlife
No problem, There is plenty to gather in the bush
This is delicious
This was our only sighting of buffalo – crossing the road in front of us
Then off into the undergrowth
To have a snack

In camp we were also delighted to have some smaller visitors.

This brave little striped mouse was not afraid at all.
The Scrub Hare is nocturnal but appeared at our campsite just before dusk each evening
Those ears!

On our second day in the park, our travelling companions, Alec and Cathy saw a mother cheetah and two cubs. I was thrilled for them but also a little jealous that we had missed this awesome sighting. The next day we set off to find them on the Ubejane Loop but were disappointed. They were nowhere to be seen.
It was our last full day in the park and the weather was stunning. “Let’s see if we can find those cheetahs today, ” I suggested to The Earl. “They’re probably long gone but let’s be positive.”
We made our way to the Ubejane turnoff. It was after nine o’clock and I felt that we should have left camp earlier. But we couldn’t have timed it better. A single white Toyota Land Cruiser was standing still a short way from the turnoff. The Earl drew up beside him and I nearly jumped out of the car when he said they were looking at a cheetah! But do you think we could locate her? We scanned the hillside and then turned to the guy for clearer instructions. How insane! We had looked too high and too far not believing she could be right there, under a bush, sitting up and literally waving at us!


“Where are the cubs?” The Earl was worried. After a few minutes, one appeared and came to sit with Mom. Soon a second came along and we breathed a sigh of relief that they were both safe.

And then another one appeared.

The first two cubs stuck close to Mom but the third was clearly the problem child of the family, always lagging behind, looking for his own adventures.

It was breakfast time and Mom needed to hunt. She instructed her cubs to stay put and set off to find food. For over an hour we watched her hunt but although she made two attempts her prey got away. I was glad for the poor bokkie but sorry that the family had to go hungry for a little longer.

On the prowl
Silently stalking
Trying to stay hidden
The two obedient kittens came when called
But the naughty one lagged behind as usual
Sorry kids – he got away!

Cheetahs were successfully reintroduced to the Mountain Zebra National Park in 2007 and have thrived in the mountainous terrain. Having never spotted them on previous visits, I considered booking a guided game drive. However, I’m glad I refrained, as this self-discovered sighting became the highlight of our trip.

I have asked Cathy to write a ‘guest blog’ and her story will appear here soon.

Budding Little Birders – An Outing to False Bay Nature Reserve

6 Replies

While visiting Cape Town last week I had the privilege of guiding a class of Grade Three girls, whose teacher is an ex-colleague of mine, on a bird-watching excursion. Each year she does a theme on birds which includes an outing to The False Bay Nature Reserve formerly the settling ponds of the Strandfontein Sewerage Works. I know this park and its birds very well which is why the teacher asked me to be their guide. Of course, I took my ‘driver’ along with me and he enjoyed it just as much as I did.

He and I visited the park the day before to get an idea of where the various species were likely to be found. The photos posted in the blog are from both days. It was rather windy on our recci day and most of the birds were gathered in large groups on P1 and P2. On the day of the excursion, the wind had dropped but it was overcast with a spit and spot of rain which did not dampen the spirits of the little girls at all. There were seven cars filled with eager little girls and their equally interested parents. We were able to get out of the cars quite frequently and at all the ponds we visited we managed to see a variety of beautiful water birds.

A Variety of Birds on P1

In preparation for the outing, the girls had been assigned a bird to research and then had to present an oral to the rest of the class. This also helped them to remember the names of the birds as they associated the bird with the girl who did the oral.

The girls were delighted to tick off most of the assigned birds. I am sure the girls who didn’t find their bird will see them at another time.

Arabella’s Black-winged stilts were seen in many of the ponds.
Aren’t Nuhaa’s birds pretty – Cape Teals
Ava had Cattle Egret and she saw quite a number of them.
Greater Flamingo was Nura’s bird and what a lot there were!
Oh, put your wings down! It’s just a Cape Shoveler passing by!
Jade’s bird – A black-headed Heron observing the masses of birds of P1
Abigail, I think the Egyptian Geese always improve the scenery.
Risima got Pied Avocet and we saw lots.
Look, Thea – Lots of your birds! A flotilla of shovelers
Nuhaa’s Cape Teal with the pink bills and Thea’s Cape Shoveler socialising with them
A gathering of Bianca’s Blacksmith Lapwings with stilts and avocets in attendance
Kayla was delighted to find her bird. It’s a dabchick, she said but also knew its new name – Little Grebe.
Lots of Alia’s Hartlaub’s Gulls – I wonder what happened to the one in the middle!
It was wonderful to find Lesser Flamingo. They are not as common as Greater Flamingo in this park.
There were lots of Elle’s bird, the Kelp Gull, to be found. Here they are with Olivia’s Sacred Ibis and Arabella’s Black-winged Stilts.
Fatima’s Bird – Great White Pelicans
Zarhaa’s Red Knobbed Coot
Sara’s bird appeared from time to time – Glossy Ibis
We were surprised to see large groups of Talullah’s Bird, The Common Moorhen
Usually, she is shy and tries to hide away.
Frances’s Yellow-billed Duck was at our very first pond.
Charlotte’s Grey Heron
Annabelle was assigned the handsome Spur-winged goose and a number of them were happy to come along to greet the girls.
Emma was assigned the Swift Tern now known as a Greater Crested Tern – There were many of them with their yellow bills among the Hartlaub’s Gulls.

Rania Did you see a red-billed teal? I don’t remember seeing one but I believe some of the girls did. So here is a photo from another time.

Rania’s Red-billed Teal

Some of the girls didn’t get to see their birds on their outing day so the challenge to them is to try to see it in the near future. I am sure they will.

Below are photographs from my archives – not necessarily taken at Strandfontein.

Ann Rose, one day I am sure you will see a shelduck. As you know the male and female are not alike. These two were taken at Addo Elephant Park

Mrs Shelduck
Mr Shelduck

Audrey, your bird is the beautiful African Darter. Keep your eyes open for one.

African Darter – taken at Rondevlei

Grace, I was very surprised we didn’t see any cormorants. They usually love visiting Strandfontein.

White-breasted Cormorant

What a great time we all had on this excursion. For me, it was great to see the enthusiasm of such young children. Their teacher has certainly kindled an interest in birds and wildlife in them. These little girls have been introduced to a hobby they can be involved in for the rest of their lives.

A Gecko Getaway – Ebb and Flow, Wilderness – Day 3

4 Replies

The day started a little later for me this morning and I only emerged from my Gecko just before 08h00. It was slightly cooler weather and it looked like it might rain. Once again we were all left to spend the day as we chose. John popped by to say that he and Jane would be going into town and then to do some bird trails. I asked him to please fetch me after the shopping and take me with him which he kindly agreed to.

While sitting enjoying the ambiance of our campsite and waiting to bird with John and Jane, I spotted a flash of red wings and leaped for my camera and then ran to the tree where I was sure the bird had landed. This roused the curiosity of the others in our laager and I excitedly pointed out the beautiful green bird. There were in fact three of them and everybody managed to see them.

One gave up his game of hide and seek and posed for his portrait
Kyk daar! Is hy nie mooi nie!
I really don’t know what the fuss is about!

While all this fuss was going on Jane rang to tell me to come to their site but I didn’t hear my phone so she came to fetch me – Thanks Jane – I should have been ready and waiting!

We did three different trails one of which was the Galinule Hide near the Fairy Knowe Hotel. You need to get a key to the hide from the hotel and then do a walk to the hide. It was very quiet and we did not see many birds. The most interesting flying creatures we saw were in fact human beings paragliding over the beautiful holiday homes of The Wilderness.

We then did a kingfisher trail along a boardwalk and only saw a few birds at a distance. Near where John parked the car, however, we saw double-collared sunbirds. (I will post a complete list of birds seen in my final blog tomorrow.) 

A very distant photograph of a Hartlaub’s gull – We also saw kelp gulls and cororants
Southern Double-Collared Sunbird

The last place we stopped was also part of the Garden Route National Park and is next to the Island Holiday Resort. This proved to be a very rewarding spot. The most prominent birds were the red-knobbed coots – hundreds of them. We also saw a malachite kingfisher but my photo is so blurred it is not fit for publication. 

Lots of red-knobbed coots
Reed Cormorant drying his wings
With wings folded and now looking for evidence of fish beneath the surface
A Little Grebe just up from a dive
Cattle Egrets – the one on the right is a juvenile
A Purple Swamphen – a little too far away for a good photograph
A White-throated Swallow taking a break from constantly flying about.
A feral domestic goose! He was hanging with the Egyptian Geese hoping to be adopted, I think.

After enjoying a great day at the Wilderness and surrounds most of us went off for dinner at a few of the local restaurants, all of which offer great food at reasonable prices. We opted for The Girls on the Square and were not disappointed. Earl had Mediterranean Calamari and Alec, Cathy and I settled for Caeser Salad served with a really stunning dressing. Cath and Alec shared a Melba Pudding and Earl and I shared a Creme Brule. We were not disappointed.

Entrance to The Girls
I thought the salt and pepper with their mussel shell spoons were rather cute
And the sculptures of The Three Little Pigs, AKA Warthogs were just too adorable

When we got back to camp we joined the ‘after party’ of people returned from the restaurants or beginning their own braai. The fun does not stop when you’re camping with fellow Gecko Okes!

An informal gathering at Johan’s Gecko

Dankie vir ‘n lekker day, almal. Ons sien uit na meer pret môre